Be careful with the front large caliper bolts, those must be very tight, and they should get a drop of red loctite on them. Those are common in threads on forums, for becoming loose, leading to no brakes, a locked up wheel etc. I've never had it happen, with or without loctite, but I have always gotten those bolts very tight(lugnut tight). Those are very strong and large grade eight bolts, you can't hurt them.
The sliding pins though do not always need re-greasing. I rarely ever disturb them, if the boots are untouched(don't loosen that bolt), then if the boot is sealed the pins/grease are as clean as the last time disturbed. Only under severe duty should you ever need to R&R the pin boots or grease.
I deliver mail, and I don't drive slow, or stop slowly. I know brakes, I do my own and I know what parts should be serviced, and which should be left alone and for how long.
Buy the best pads that you can, throw cheap stuff away, including lifetime parts store's "crap." I used to try those 20 years ago, and they came apart after 6-9000 miles usually.
Loctite is good, but only use one drop per bolt.
Compressing a caliper piston is needed, but for ABS vehicles, open the bleed screw if at all possible. ABS hydraulic units are very sensitive to dirty fluid, so pushing the worst fluid(in and near the caliper) is a bad idea. Bleed new fluid through the lines always, clean brake fluid is really good to have, old is very bad.
If you do plenty of brake work, invest $75 in a pressure bleeder system, easier to use and a one man job too. They also allow you do keep the MC from emptying(or you filling it constantly), by having a reservoir outside the MC filled and connected to the top of the MC(no air at all, back to the bleeder pump reservoir). Check them out, slick tool I love to have. They do need the proper reservoir cap adapter to work with each type of MC cap.