Front diff rear oil seal

[chrystal]

Hi

UK 2000 Explorer. I have a leak coming from the rear of the front Diff, where the prop shaft goes in. The seal is unobtainable here in the UK. I have looked on Rock Autos but not sure what I'm after as they list many seals and I know this seal seems to have different names. Does anyone know which one I need

Also how hard is it to change?

Thanks

 

[koda2000]

it's called a front pinion seal. inexpensive part and not too hard to change, but you must either mark and return the pinion nut to the exact same position and torque, or also replace the crush sleeve and re-torque to spec.

 

[SoNic67]

Also, the front diff COVER doesn't have a seal, it's formed in place with form-a-gasket type of sealant:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ex--super--300--form-a-gasket--sealant-detail

 

[koda2000]

it's called a front pinion seal. inexpensive part and not too hard to change, but you must either mark and return the pinion nut to the exact same position and torque, or also replace the crush sleeve and re-torque to spec.

not sure why Sonic mentioned the diff cover, it is not necessary to remove it to change the pinion seal, but what he said is correct.

to change the pinion seal, disconnect the prop shaft, remove the pinion nut (don't forget to mark it's location relative to the pinion shaft if not installing a new crush sleeve). remove the yoke, which sometimes pulls right off and sometimes requires a puller. pry out the old seal, tap the new seal in with a hammer (i like to put a smear of sealant around its outside edge and put some grease on the lip of the new seal, re-install the pinion nut and to the correct degree of tightness/torque and re-install the prop shaft. check your fluid level and add the appropriate gear oil (75w140 full synthetic hypoid gear oil).

on the subject of fuel prices, have you considered an LP conversion? i know this is a pretty common thing to do to gas hog vehicles in the UK.

 

[wrightyonline]

Hiya, I have the same problem and want to get the pinion seal , crush washer and bearing to do a small rebuild, but there are lots of parts on the rock auto site, how do I tell which parts are for my diff, can I find a diff code to reference part numbers for example ? Ie, 8.8", inner outer bearing , not sure what I have or need , diff's are new to me but the mechanics I'm comfortable with so will do it myself if I can identify the right parts, don't want to order parts on a whim due to shipping costs if I get it wrong, I have a 97 gen 2 4.0l sohc v6 3.73 LSD rear 4x4 auto if that sheds any light on what diff is up front

 

[chrystal]

Thanks. Is this the right seal? http://www.rockauto.co.uk/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=257081&cc=1362440

And for the crush washer :http://www.rockauto.co.uk/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=634502&cc=1362440

 

[wrightyonline]

Hiya I think they are the right parts, with a lot of research I believe we have a Dana 35 front diff either sla or reverse ifs according to the web, but I believe the seal and crush washer are the same for both, it's the 35 bit that's important as rock auto also list a 28 which is too small a bore size, so unless anyone across the pond corrects me if I've made a mistake I believe they are the parts we need to fix the leak

 

[rb142]

Yes, Dana 35.

 

[bluestream1]

You want seal number 714675. Its very common, maybe cost 5-$10

Dont mess with the crush washer, just align the bolt and the shaft the same as when you removed the bolt

 

[chrystal]

Thanks for all your help, part ordered!

 

[pbnj22]

Thanks for all your help, part ordered!

are you tackling yourself? i would be curious how it goes as i have to do the same. i had the rear pinion seal break and i had a shop do it for 200. now im gaining confidence and might tackle the front myself!

 

[bluestream1]

Double post

 

[bluestream1]

are you tackling yourself? i would be curious how it goes as i have to do the same. i had the rear pinion seal break and i had a shop do it for 200. now im gaining confidence and might tackle the front myself!

I just did my front and its very easy. Hardest part is getting the pinion nut to break free. Need a 1 1/8 socket I think. I used a pipe wrench to hold the yoke and then loosen the nut with the socket. Here's a tip: Make index marks on the Nut, the pinion shaft and the yoke with a small dremel type tool. If you use a Sharpie or scratch marks they will get rubbed off quickly. On re-assembly just get all the marks to line up. Count the threads that are exposed before you remove the nut, but when you reinstall, you will just be able to tighten the nut to get your marks in line. Dont worry about over tightening it, it takes a lot of torque as the nut tightens and the index makes start to come into alignment...

I used a galvanized pipe fitting to drive the seal in. If you truck is rusty, cover the seal with a clean cloth before driving in in. I had some rust falling as i did the install, but luckily none fell into the seal area

Also be prepared to have your yoke have deep grooves where the seal lip rides. Mine had 3 groves. The inner was not bad at all, but the outer has rust and some groves. I put in in the vise and buffed it with 320 emery cloth. Cleaned up very nice, and I think I am good. I did price a new front yoke from Ford and it was $71 Canadian (trade pricing)

Rear yoke was much cheaper and can be had from Dorman. Thats my next job...