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Front Driveshaft Removal


dsturch1

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September 2, 2008
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City, State
Pennington, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 4.0 XLT & 98 5.0 XLT
My X (AWD) is making a sound similar to the one in this video I found posted on the forum:

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k563/benjaminflick/?action=view&current=515ac24c.mp4

I am fairly confident that it is the Front Driveshaft but can someone tell me how involved it is to remove/reinstall? If anyone could briefly give step by step instructions I would greatly appreciate it!

Also, is it possible from sounding like such in the video that it COULD be anything else? Thanks in advance!
 


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Blackbox19

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November 25, 2009
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Year, Model & Trim Level
97 explorer
I just did it TWICE. Its easy to undo the bolts up on the CV joint near the transfer case. Its the bolts on the ujoint straps that are hard. They take a 30 Torx and they are super tight. I sprayed mine with PB Blaster and let set for hour. Fast snatch and you break the head off the torx. Have to apply slow pressure and hold till they break loose. Once broke loose they come right out. Then just pry out the drive shaft.
The night mare comes if you want to rebuild the CV joint yourself. 129 at NAPA for it.
I have the instructions from Dorman as they only ones I know of that make the joint.
The front U joint is like all other regular joints. Plenty of You Tube videos on that. Just none on the CV joint.
If you rebuild it your self. Oncwe shaft is out of truck, Pop the rear cover off the shaft. The Cover comes out easy. Once out you will see the shaft and the splined area. There is a C Clip there you got to pry off. I did it with thin flat head screw driver. Once that is off then Release the strap that holds the rubber boot on. Then just pull the whole thing off. Clean every thing good and reinstall everything back from the kit. Remember to put the metal strap on 1st. Then install the rubber boot cap on the bearing. You will have to seat it on there. Its VERY TIGHT. I put a line of RTV on bearing under where the cap will set. Slid back on the shaft and push till the rubber boot is all the way down in the groove around the shaft. Then pull the bearing up back off the shaft. Now take the Grease in the bottle and shot it down the splined hole. Then put back on the shaft. This will force the grease into the ball cage real good. Run a bead of RTV around the back cover. Then Install the back cover making dang sure you line up the holes for the bolts. Then I took 4 sets of Vise Grips and went around edge to seat the cover. That is a true pain.. Cause all that grease is every where. Then pull the strap till no slack in it and bend backwards, Cut off all the excess, then bend the 2 tabs that hold it in place.
 




G-96XLT

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City, State
Toronto, ONT
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT , '00 Sport
My Torx were super easy to take out, I was suprised I thought I was taking apart a Compaq. The problem for me was the thing was seized and needed a couple of hammers and a pry.

Certainly doable for anyone. 15 minutes if everything goes as planned or a couple of hours if you run into problems.
 




G-96XLT

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City, State
Toronto, ONT
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT , '00 Sport
I had noise issues as well on my sport, nothing like that though. I ended up repacking the CV joints in the axles shafts and got a minor home alignment and much of the noise is gone.
 




jls1znv9999

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November 20, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Roxana, Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000
Just check. I know that i had a Bad seal on a U joint. The pin bearings got fouled up with dirt etc. I have had problems with the front shaft. It's balanced and all. However it keeps tearing at the boot for some reason. Check your u joints. It's cheaper to fix those than rebuild or replace the whole shaft.
 




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