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Front end parts checklist

runderwo

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Joined
August 4, 2009
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City, State
Tulsa, OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 XL
I'm trying to get a list of parts needed for a front end rebuild together. I have read the very helpful guides on doing the wheel bearings and the spindle bearing/balljoints/U-joints.

I have already done:
2 sets of Inner and outer tie rods (Moog)
2 Swaybar bushings (Moog)
2 Upper ball joints (Moog)
2 Lower ball joints (Moog)
2 Inner Spindle Seals (National)

I have been picking up the following parts on sale:
2 sets of Inner and outer #37 wheel bearings (NAPA) (4 total bearings)
2 rotor wheel bearing seals (NAPA)
2 rotors with races (UBP)
brake pad set (Wagner Thermoquiet)
brake hardware kit
anti-rattle springs
2 sets of 2ea. Radius arm bushings
2 Axle pivot bushings
2 adjustable camber/caster bushing or washer kits

I still need the following parts (suggestions for best brands welcome):
2 spindle bearings Timken B2110 type
3 front axle U-joints
2 front driveshaft U-joints

Anything else I missed please add to my shopping list.
 



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2 sets of Inner and outer #37 wheel bearings (NAPA)

You need 4 sets of the Timken set #37 bearings. Each "set" is just a bearing and race so you need 4 since there are 2 bearing sets on each spindle..

While your in there, I'd replace the axle pivot bushings. Yours are probably still the original ones...

I do believe there is a spindle bearing seal too, but its been a long time since I replaced a spindle bearing..

Also, There are more than 2 u-joints up front. There are 2 on the axles (one on each) and then 2 on the front drive shaft... While your working with the drive shaft, grease the slip joint.. Oh yea, do that to the slip joint on the passenger side axle.

~Mark
 






Ok I edited my list to reflect that. Thanks
 






There are actually 3 u-joints in the front axle, 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the drivers side. (I can't believe I'm correcting Maniak, hell has frozen over, lol)

I assume by brake hardware your mean new slide pins? Also, don't forget to pick up some brake lube (I've forgotten that while at the parts store more then once)
 






There are actually 3 u-joints in the front axle, 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the drivers side. (I can't believe I'm correcting Maniak, hell has frozen over, lol)

It might be the lack of coffee but you are right. There is a u-joint on the short shaft on the passenger side near the pumpkin and one that is at the knuckle.

When I picture the passenger shaft I always picture this part.. Which is why I forgot about the u-joint on the short piece on that passenger side.
4194124216_70d1011bf8.jpg

c-clip-eliminator 001 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Anywho.. If your going to change all the u-joints on the axle shafts you might as well do the c-clip eliminator mod IF your going to go wheeling or want to make it easier to pull the shaft next time. In stock form, to get the short passenger shaft out you have to pull the pumpkin which means you pull the RA, or at least get it way out of the way since there is one vertical bolt on the pumpkin that won't clear the RA.

~Mark
 






I did the ball joints last week. One thing that I have seen elsewhere is that some Moogs are made in the USA and some are made in Mexico. The USA ones are old-style Moog quality and the Mexico ones are outsourced crap. Also, sometimes the Duralast brand at Autozone is a repackaged Moog and can be determined by looking for Moog part numbers stamped onto it.

Something else I ran into was the rubber seals that seal the rear of the spindle to the axle, these were cracked and rotted. They are called "Inner spindle seals" in O'Reilly's computer and cost about $5-10. So I added them to the list.

Also helpful is to have adjustable camber/caster bushings to get the alignment 100% correct. So I added those.
 






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