Front Hubs & CV's - A little Different

[Cali' Explorer]

Hey All-
Know there are a lot of threads on the Front Hubs and CV's, but I think my question is a little different. My X needs its front hubs replaced, and since I have removed my Front D-Shaft (because my T-Case's Viscous Coupler is wasted) I was planning on gutting the Front CV's and removing the front Pumpkin and going 2WD by keeping only the front hubs and the part of the CV that attaches the Front Hubs (as some others have done).

My question is, for those who have played with the hubs, is it possible to get the CV shafts out when the hub is removed? I am trying to avoid having to remove the balljoints (as I don't have air tools and torque wrenches right now) if possible. Does removing the hubs give enough clearance to pop out the hubs or not?

Also, to answer another question that may come up, I plan to re-install the inner CV attachment (without the CV Half Shaft itself) to prevent the Front Diff from leaking fluid all over until I can get down to my friend's shop in a couple of months and get it up on a lift to remove the pumpkin itself.

Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[Hartman]

You have to pop the top balljoint loose, no way around it. You can remove the hub but there won't be enough play in the CV to get it out of the knuckle.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Hartman-
Thanks for that... I kind of figure that was the case, but thought it couldn't hurt to ask, hehe.

Is it terribly hard to pop the top balljoint loose with hand tools? I 've got plenty of cheater bars and a nice 10 lb. mini sledge (hand held, nice). I've heard you can sometimes pop them loose by just loosing the nut and giving the Spindle a few good hits to pop it free of the BJ.

I just want to avoid expensive tools that I can't afford if possible, hehe. Already got a nice, cleaned up set of hubs and CV's that I can install for $100 (used, but lower mileage and good enough for me to rebuild for cheap).

Also, just noticed a post that was updated that had roughly the same information with pictures... don't know how that one slipped past me, usually good about searching first.

 

[Hartman]

I think you should be able to do it. I don't know if your top balljoint has been popped loose lately, but if it has, it will be easier. If not, thats OK. Just remove the pinch bolt and give the control arm a few whacks with the sledge. That's how I popped mine the first time. You're probably going to have to remove the tie rod end too, in which I usually use a gear puller to pop it loose, but you should be able to remove the nut and pound it out with the sledge. Good luck.

 

[stretch]

I was able to get my CV shaft out by just removing the upper ball joint from the top of the spindle.

 

[Jefe]

You need to remove the pinch bolt completely to break the upper ball joint loose. If you steer the wheel the correct direction you do not need to undo the tie rod. You also only need to undo one side like I show in my thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53863

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Jefe-
Ya, I saw your thread on how to do that before. My only concern is that I have a re-alignment kit in my X, and I'm afraid if I pull the control arm mount bolts, that the alignment will be off so much I won't be able to get it to an Alignment shop (typicaly free time for me during the day is 0, unless its at a computer, so getting it to an alignment shop requires taking a day off which I get about once every other month, haha).

I could be mistaken though.

 

[Jefe]

Jefe-
Ya, I saw your thread on how to do that before. My only concern is that I have a re-alignment kit in my X, and I'm afraid if I pull the control arm mount bolts, that the alignment will be off so much I won't be able to get it to an Alignment shop (typicaly free time for me during the day is 0, unless its at a computer, so getting it to an alignment shop requires taking a day off which I get about once every other month, haha).

I could be mistaken though.

You do not need to remove the control arm. . just undo it at the upper ball joint by removing the pinch bolt. Thats covered later in the thread, and I just put an EDIT in my thread.
Besides, even if you did have to remove the A-arm, you just need to mark the alignment cams before you remove them so that you can reinstall them properly, with no need for another alignment.

 

[stretch]

You don't have to remove the two upper control arm mounting bolts (the ones on top of the frame where the camber adjusters are), just remove the pinch bolt that holds the upper ball joint to the top of the spindle. Use a hammer to knock the ball joint stud out of the top of the spindle and then push the upper control arm up out of the way. Then you should be able to pull the spindle outward enough to remove the CV shaft from it. Doing it this way shouldn't screw up your alignment. Hope that helps you.

EDIT: Jefe types faster than me.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Ahh, cool, that definitely helps then. I'll have to give it a try in a day or two when I have some free time... see how it goes *blech*

Maybe get some PB Blaster and soak all the nuts and what not the day before so they are a little easier to get apart, hehe.