Front, rear, control arm bushing improvement...

[SHUMAX]

Some of you that have followed me through my quest with my 2011, and now my 2014 Sport, know I'm not a fan of clunking in the front end or a wobbling steering wheel. See thread from the 2011

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428804

The 2014 now has about 48k on it. At 38k, the front struts were replaced with the strut bearings as the struts were leaking. From there, around 45k, I had the front sway bar links replaced. Then, the front sway bar bushings. The noises in the front went away about 95%.

What I started to notice was the random shaking of the steering wheels around 45-55mph. Sometimes it would happen, others it would not. No real reason for it. I had the tires balanced on a road force machine that was calibrated a week before I went in - road force figures in the front were under 10lbs. Over the last 3,000 miles, it had started to do what the 2011 was doing -- slight wobble of the steering wheel at 45-55mph. What fixed that on the 2011 was new control arms and rear control arm (hydro) bushings.

Thinking that's what I was facing now on the 2014 Sport, I decided I would try something from my Honda days. I bought a tube of 3M Window Weld. I used that, in the past, to fill motor mounts. Before you bash me for it, stop. I realize it's likely a temporary fix; however, what it would tell me was whether it was the rear hydro bushing or the front.

$22 later, I had a tube of it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08609?seid=srese1&gclid=CNr56Y-ZzcwCFcNahgodPAEMDg

I jacked the car up and filled both sides of the bushing in so there were no gaps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-...ash=item51dcf1cd9f:g:jd4AAOSwPc9Wvo1K&vxp=mtr

See the gaps in the bushing? Fill those - front and rear. The stuff is sticky as all get out and makes a mess - wear gloves. 30min. later, both bushings were done. I let it dry 12 hours and took it for a drive. Immediately, I noticed the front end was tighter. The random thumping is gone and guess what - no shimmy from the steering wheel.

I am convinced this bushing is weak in our suspension. With time, it can't keep the control arm stable and it results in the clunking and random shimmy. Now, when/if the window weld comes out, I can replace the bushing and move on. They are $100/each from Ford; however, I've seen them online for $60. Bad thing is that you need to remove the entire control arm. Depending on the miles accumulated, I may just replace the entire arm and rear bushing.

FYI for those that run into the same issue. Very happy with how it feels and sounds!

Shumax

 

[613GT500]

Some of you that have followed me through my quest with my 2011, and now my 2014 Sport, know I'm not a fan of clunking in the front end or a wobbling steering wheel. See thread from the 2011

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428804

The 2014 now has about 48k on it. At 38k, the front struts were replaced with the strut bearings as the struts were leaking. From there, around 45k, I had the front sway bar links replaced. Then, the front sway bar bushings. The noises in the front went away about 95%.

What I started to notice was the random shaking of the steering wheels around 45-55mph. Sometimes it would happen, others it would not. No real reason for it. I had the tires balanced on a road force machine that was calibrated a week before I went in - road force figures in the front were under 10lbs. Over the last 3,000 miles, it had started to do what the 2011 was doing -- slight wobble of the steering wheel at 45-55mph. What fixed that on the 2011 was new control arms and rear control arm (hydro) bushings.

Thinking that's what I was facing now on the 2014 Sport, I decided I would try something from my Honda days. I bought a tube of 3M Window Weld. I used that, in the past, to fill motor mounts. Before you bash me for it, stop. I realize it's likely a temporary fix; however, what it would tell me was whether it was the rear hydro bushing or the front.

$22 later, I had a tube of it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08609?seid=srese1&gclid=CNr56Y-ZzcwCFcNahgodPAEMDg

I jacked the car up and filled both sides of the bushing in so there were no gaps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-...ash=item51dcf1cd9f:g:jd4AAOSwPc9Wvo1K&vxp=mtr

See the gaps in the bushing? Fill those - front and rear. The stuff is sticky as all get out and makes a mess - wear gloves. 30min. later, both bushings were done. I let it dry 12 hours and took it for a drive. Immediately, I noticed the front end was tighter. The random thumping is gone and guess what - no shimmy from the steering wheel.

I am convinced this bushing is weak in our suspension. With time, it can't keep the control arm stable and it results in the clunking and random shimmy. Now, when/if the window weld comes out, I can replace the bushing and move on. They are $100/each from Ford; however, I've seen them online for $60. Bad thing is that you need to remove the entire control arm. Depending on the miles accumulated, I may just replace the entire arm and rear bushing.

FYI for those that run into the same issue. Very happy with how it feels and sounds!

Shumax

I imagine the "filler" will last a while until it gets wet or goes through a power wash?
Otherwise, I would just repeat the application every few years if it lasts and get rid of the vehicle when time comes for a new one.

 

[SHUMAX]

The stuff is rock hard when it cures. I don't think it will come apart, but it may come out if it wasn't able to adhere to the bushing. Too your point, I put some more back in there if so.

I plan to drive this one to 150k, so I have some time ahead of me. If I have to replace the bushing a time or two, so be it. Beats the crappy ride and shimmy.

Wander over and search about the Honda Pilot owners. They are battling this bushing a lot more than we do for the exact reasons I mentioned. Ugly.

Shumax

 

[breshi]

I replaced my front hydro bushings due to a thumping noise when going over bumps at a slow speed. I went with the aftermarket brand Moog as opposed to the OEM. This resolved my problem. I did notice that the OEM was not near as stiff as the Moog brand. I'm not sure if the weaker bushing was due to age or design. I had a little over 40K miles when I did the swap. I would highly recommend going Moog instead of OEM due to the difference in the rigidity.

 

[613GT500]

I replaced my front hydro bushings due to a thumping noise when going over bumps at a slow speed. I went with the aftermarket brand Moog as opposed to the OEM. This resolved my problem. I did notice that the OEM was not near as stiff as the Moog brand. I'm not sure if the weaker bushing was due to age or design. I had a little over 40K miles when I did the swap. I would highly recommend going Moog stead of OEM due to the difference in the rigidity.

+1 for Moog as opposed to OEM, considering the OEM ones are "failing".

 

[SHUMAX]

What did you all pay to have these replaced? I see the MOOG part is around $40 vs. stock around $100. Sounds like the entire control arm has to come out to replace this bushing. Given that, why not replace the arm and have a fresh ball joint, too? The arm is around $130 from Ford, FYI...

 

[breshi]

What did you all pay to have these replaced? I see the MOOG part is around $40 vs. stock around $100. Sounds like the entire control arm has to come out to replace this bushing. Given that, why not replace the arm and have a fresh ball joint, too? The arm is around $130 from Ford, FYI...

I paid around $40 a bushing. I did have to remove the entire control arm to do the swap. I agree, doing the whole control arm would be easier. it comes down to a $ thing. Moog might make a LCA also.