Front springs?

[Recoil Rob]

My 2002 XLT 4dr has 40K original miles on it, and I've had to replace the rear springs which cracked at 35K and now one of the front springs has gone. the truck has been off road for maybe 20 miles total over some trails and fields here in NY, have to think bad stuff to begin with.

Local dealer wants $450/side to swap them out he tells me the OEM replacements springs are very expensive and I believe him.

He told I can get my own and he's happy to install them, any advice?

I went with some Eaton Springs for another vehicle and they seem to have done a good job, even gave me 18% over stock.

Would it be a good idea to go over stock or would it affect the highway handling too much?


thanks,

Rob

 

[TechGuru]

$450 a side?!?!?!? LMAO

Just get yourself 4 KYB QuikStruts and pop them in yourself.

Amazon might be cheaper if you have Prime free shipping.

 

[Recoil Rob]

I'm old school, I keep forgetting that now struts are the whole package, in fact that's what I had them install in the rear last year.

Any special equipment needed for me to do the fronts? I have jack stands and a floor jack, air tools, etc.


thanks,

Rob

$450 a side?!?!?!? LMAO

Just get yourself 4 KYB QuikStruts and pop them in yourself.

Amazon might be cheaper if you have Prime free shipping.

 

[extra-medium]

May want to check your ball joints while you're gonna be in there and separating them from the knuckle. You mainly just need the struts, I believe a 22mm nut and bolt on the bottom through the lower control arm, and then 3 nuts on the top, can't remember if they are 12, 13, or 14 mm. It should take a couple hours per side to tear down and then switch the strut and get it back together. Don't forget an alignment when you're done.

If you wanna go better than stock you can get the Rancho quick lifts that advertise +1.5" up front and have adjustable dampening. They are a little tougher to get in since they are a little longer, but a little more prying and they go in eventually.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

just prepare some cutting/grinding tools in case the driver side lower shock bolt will give you some challenge, some of us here experienced that. A 30 min job will turn into a day.

 

[TechGuru]

If you wanna go better than stock you can get the Rancho quick lifts that advertise +1.5" up front and have adjustable dampening. They are a little tougher to get in since they are a little longer, but a little more prying and they go in eventually.

Personally if I were going to spend that much I'd rather spend more and go with replacing the springs with air bags.

But it looks like there is a rebate going on right now:

Here is the rebate form: http://www.gorancho.com/downloads/promotions/rancho_springpromotion_rebatepad_us.pdf

 

[Recoil Rob]

I only need the fronts done, if I went with Ranchos and 1.5" lift wouldn't the front end sit higher than the rear? The rears were done a couple of years ago with Monroe Struts so would I be OK with the KYY's?

 

[TechGuru]

I only need the fronts done, if I went with Ranchos and 1.5" lift wouldn't the front end sit higher than the rear? The rears were done a couple of years ago with Monroe Struts so would I be OK with the KYY's?

Yep, the Rancho's must be done as a set. I advise against mixing when possible.

I personally don't care for Monroe but do you know what Monroe model you put on the rear so we can find the matching pair for the front?

There are two to choose from, I'll assume you went with the better ones I hope.

 

[Recoil Rob]

Yes, I went with the 171322's. Is there a KBY that I should use on the front or should I stick with the Monroes for now and then change all 4 next time I need them?

I see KBY just had a rebate that ended on 4/30 but Monroes is still valid...


thanks,

Rob

 

[shane10]

Second the KYB's, just did all 4 strut plus assemblies on my 02' XLS, rides nice.
DON'T pay 450 per side if you're confident in doing the job yourself, that's quite a rip.
Front's were quite easy for me, rears had the most corrosion, had to bring it into a shop to cut the top (13mm) bolts off.
I was up the in air between KYB and Monroe, overall I read better things about KYB, monroe's being too soft etc...
40,000 on an 02?!? Wanna trade? I'm only at 160k

 

[Recoil Rob]

I don't think the fronts will be a problem, and Monroes have a rebate now, but I may go with he KBY's if it's OK to mix the two.

 

[shane10]

I don't think the fronts will be a problem, and Monroes have a rebate now, but I may go with he KBY's if it's OK to mix the two.

Choice is yours, if money isn't a deterrent KYB's seem to be better quality, although I have no comparison.
I don't see why it would create problems, both sets are near identical to OEM as far as length compression rate and all that. Only reason not to would be if you're going KYB on one side Monroe on the other, which clearly you don't intend on.
Good luck!
PS 1AAuto has a great video on replacement

 

[Recoil Rob]

Yep, that's the video I watch, quite good except for jack placement.

I take it I put jack stands under the frame behind the wheel and then use the floor jack to lift the hubs when needed?

They show lifting the wheel after installing the strut but before torquing the three top bolts, why wouldn't I just install the struts, torque bottom bolts, lower the truck to the ground and then torque the 3 top bolts with the body weight on them?

 

[shane10]

Yep, that's the video I watch, quite good except for jack placement.

I take it I put jack stands under the frame behind the wheel and then use the floor jack to lift the hubs when needed?

They show lifting the wheel after installing the strut but before torquing the three top bolts, why wouldn't I just install the struts, torque bottom bolts, lower the truck to the ground and then torque the 3 top bolts with the body weight on them?

Yep, when lifting the front I just put the jack under the front of the car dead center and lift from the frame, both wheels going up at once, then put the stands exactly where you said.

The way you mentioned will probably work fine, maybe they put weight on the suspension from the jack for convenience of the video, it's easier to see everything with the wheel still off.
Actually, I might suggest doing the same in case the top three bolts don't line up properly, you will easily be able to correct it, with wheel on and grounded it would be impossible to do so. In my case, The top strut mount was shipped from factory 180 degrees the wrong way, (manufacturer error, easy fix with a spring compressor). But yours could be just slightly off as well.

Also make sure you have the right sockets/wrenches to do the job before you start, I know it's necessary for the rears, but deep sockets might be needed for some bolts. Spray everything down good with PB blaster beforehand. Get a big breaker bar, better yet, a big metal pipe to go around your breaker bar, for the bottom bolts, they can be a pain. A 13mm ratcheting wrench will save you a lot of time on the top 3 bolts.

EDIT: Putting the wheel back on the ground would be absolutely fine before torquing the top 3 nuts, but as I said before, just make sure the bolts line up with the mount before doing so.

 

[Recoil Rob]

Thanks Shane, I have all the tools and I was planning of getting the top nuts started and down before lowering the front end and then torquing.

Someone mentioned I will need to do an alignment after this, true?

 

[shane10]

Thanks Shane, I have all the tools and I was planning of getting the top nuts started and down before lowering the front end and then torquing.

Someone mentioned I will need to do an alignment after this, true?

Not a problem, I had a bit of trouble when doing mine and all the folks here were extremely helpful.

Yes an alignment will be needed when doing pretty much any suspension work. If you can spare the money i'd suggest finding a shop that has a 1-3 year unlimited alignment. It pays itself off after 2-3 alignments. If not, wait a couple hundred miles after installation before getting the alignment done.
The springs need time to settle, how much time is up for debate, but from what i've read 100 miles of driving does the trick.
On my truck I gained about 1.2 inches on the front end after installation, after about a week I took another measurement and it had settled back down nearly an inch.

 

[TechGuru]

Yes, I went with the 171322's. Is there a KBY that I should use on the front or should I stick with the Monroes for now and then change all 4 next time I need them?

I see KBY just had a rebate that ended on 4/30 but Monroes is still valid...


thanks,

Rob

From another forum:

"Mix and match is doable but not recommended since stiffer rears might make a car dangerously tailhappy and stiffer fronts will make it understeer."

I'd go with a matched set.

IMO you do not need an alignment after replacing just the struts as no part of their mounting affects alignment. You should only need an alignment if you replace ball joints or control arms, etc. If you have not had one in a long time I would go ahead and get one done though.

 

[Recoil Rob]

From another forum:

"Mix and match is doable but not recommended since stiffer rears might make a car dangerously tailhappy and stiffer fronts will make it understeer."

I'd go with a matched set.

So you'd recommend getting matching Monroes for the front? I can do that and wait until the next go round to do all 4.


thanks,

Rob

 

[TechGuru]

So you'd recommend getting matching Monroes for the front? I can do that and wait until the next go round to do all 4.


thanks,

Rob

How long ago did you replace the rear? If it was after Feb 22nd you should be able to get this rebate once you combine with the front.

https://www.rockauto.com/Images/CurrPromoFiles/2016_US_Monroe_Get_100_FINAL_-_REBATE_PAD.pdf

 

[Recoil Rob]

The rears were replaced 2 years ago, but only about 6000 miles, no rebates.