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Front springs?

So you'd recommend getting matching Monroes for the front? I can do that and wait until the next go round to do all 4.


thanks,

Rob

Either get the Monroe's for the front or buy all 4 KYB and try to sell or get your money back on the rear Monroe's.
 



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From another forum:

"Mix and match is doable but not recommended since stiffer rears might make a car dangerously tailhappy and stiffer fronts will make it understeer."

I'd go with a matched set.

IMO you do not need an alignment after replacing just the struts as no part of their mounting affects alignment. You should only need an alignment if you replace ball joints or control arms, etc. If you have not had one in a long time I would go ahead and get one done though.

Not to disagree, but he has been driving with a mismatched set (monroe rear stock front) for however many miles, with no stated problems. I also drove with KYB's up front, stock in back, with no ill effects. That does bring up a good point though, I will say I would personally be more comfortable with a matched set.

As far as the alignment, ride height affects camber, when I installed my KYB's I gained 1.2 inches up front, down to about 1/4 inch when settled, I don't know how much a broken spring will play into ride height. At the very least keep an eye on tread wear, but as Tech stated, if it's been a while it would be a good idea to get one regardless.
 






Truth be told I suppose anytime you change less than 4 shocks you're mismatched. Even if I went with KBY's for the front now and added the rears in a couple of years, the difference in wear would be relevant.
 






i don't think the wear will be that much to worry about as long as it's aligned and rotated always. I have an AWD mounty with rear strutteks and monroe reflex at the front (re-used the coils) and never has issues with it, if it does my transfer case will be toast by now. coil overs (which is the correct term for our vehicles, they are not struts) don't need an alignment if you do change them but couldn't hurt having them.
 






If you use the KYB's, you most likely will need an arm puller to drop the knuckle from the ball joint, so the coilover strut will go into place easily.

As for an alignment, I believe you should get one because the KYB's in particular will lift the Explorer about an inch or so, which pushes your camber slightly positive and could throw it out of spec. Is it huge? No, but I'm OCD about stuff like that and I have a lifetime alignment plan, so I always get an alignment after any suspension work.
 






If you use the KYB's, you most likely will need an arm puller to drop the knuckle from the ball joint, so the coilover strut will go into place easily.

As for an alignment, I believe you should get one because the KYB's in particular will lift the Explorer about an inch or so, which pushes your camber slightly positive and could throw it out of spec. Is it huge? No, but I'm OCD about stuff like that and I have a lifetime alignment plan, so I always get an alignment after any suspension work.

If both the KYB's and the MOnroes are OEM replacements why would one have a different installation than the other, why would I need to drop the knuckle for the KYB and not the Monroe?
 






That I can't answer, but I had to drop my knuckle from the ball joint, so the UCA would move up and the strut could go into place on the top. The only thing I can figure is that KYB is just slightly longer than the other brands. I had to do it on both of my fronts. Others on here that used different manufacturers didn't have to do it, but I used KYB and did.
 






Gentlemen,

I finally got around to ordering some Monroe Quick struts for the front to match the rears, and tackled the job this afternoon. Everything went well up until the very end. Once the wheels were back on the ground I was supposed to torque the 13mm nuts on the top studs to 30ft/lbs. (This according to the referenced PS 1AAuto video in post #12.) I used a ratcheting SK 3/8 torque wrench.

The right side went fine, the first two on the left side were OK, the last one stripped. I think these studs are either spot welded or press fit, this last nut is all the way down but the stud seems loose in the cap and it never torqued. This strut has three top studs, one on the front side and two on the rear side, the loose one is the outside rear.

Seems like they keep the body close to the strut but all the weight is downward anyway.

Hazardous situation? Don't drive until replaced?


thanks,

Rob
 






Thought I touch back on this, I'm the OP, went with Monroe's 2 years ago and now another front one has cracked. Again, I have not been off road at all and rarely carry more than a couple hundred pounds in the back.

Monroe will replace under warranty but thinking it may be better to just put in KYB's right now, cheap enough.
 






My KYB's are still rock solid and having no issues. I would recommend them if you are having problems with the others.....
 






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