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Front to rear brake line

astaroth

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January 25, 2007
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Tallinn, Estonia
Year, Model & Trim Level
explorer '93
HI

I was replacing my rear drum brakes when i noticed a leak in rear brake lines. Replaced them all, also new rear brake hose.

The hose and front-to-rear line connection was so rusted (the connection in the bracket), there was no screw to screw.. :)

Well the line broke and now i need a whole new brake line from front to rear.

My questions:

1) From front, the line starts at HCU, right?

2) the rear fitting is 3/8" but what size is the HCU connection? also 3/8"?


Marek
 


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rustbucketMI

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'94 XLT 4x4
The line start at the ABS block. There are 3 lines coming off from that block (its aluminum). 2 lines go to the left and right front wheels, the other goes to the rear. When I replaced my brake line i re-used the connectors in the front. Obviously if you end up strupping the hex you'll have to replace it. If you do end up replacing the fitting be aware that it is the long thread fitting. If you use the short thread it will not seal properly.

If your rear line rusted out chances are high that the front lines are just as rusted. I would examine those as well and if you have any question what-so-ever about their integrity replace them. A couple hours getting dirty beats slamming into a wall, or another car.
 




astaroth

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Thanks, i will check my front lines too
 




Yankee516

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Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT, 99 5.0L AWD
Morning Astaroth,

Funny, I just had the same problem. After rebuilding the transmission for over a month I took the '94 Ex for the first drive in a year. Then... drip, drip, drip all over the driveway of my friend's house. Rear brake line had rusted out.

It is a major PITA to run the new line from the ABS module, but it can be done. I did it without removing the gas tank like others have on here. Basically I cut the line mid-car at the rail and pulled the rear out the back and the forward part out the front (with some coaxing).

I bought 25' of new brake line and fittings from Autozone and took advantage of their tool rental for the tube bender (mostly did this by hand though) and flaring tool to create the double-flares.

Then I just tried to match up the bends in the new line to the old. The new forward end is a bit tricky because of how it bends around the block and exhaust to end up at the rail. In the end, it JUST made it into the clips with some additional coaxing in place. The rear was easier to install, but getting it back into the plastic clips that retain it in the rail is tricky too. But it can be done. Once both were in place, I installed a coupler with the fitting to join them up.

One additional note: I wish I had a flare wrench set as it is VERY easy to round off the edges of the fittings and bleed valves. If you can get a set at Sears Hardware or similar I'm sure you'll fine a lot of use for them in the future.

I also ended up changing the master cylinder as the piston was shot. A super cheap part at Autozone and replacement was easy. Just plug the lines to the ABS pump to avoid air getting in, and when you hook them back up keep the fittings on light and have a friend slowly press the petal to expel the air.

Brakes before were super-spongy and the petal could go to the floor at times. Now they are pretty solid and I feel so much better about stopping...which I think is taken for granted! I will probably re-run the front brake lines too if the wet weather ever dries up.

Good luck! There is MUCH joy in doing this work ourselves, and saves a LOT of $$$ over mechanics or dealers who don't care as much about the car as you do!

--Phil
 




astaroth

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