frustrated beyond belief, please help

[GunnerSchenck]

so ive had this explorer for awhile..its a 1992 ford explorer eddie bauer and i bought it thinking it was just a fuel pump that was going to need replaced but ive had it for around 4 months and it still isnt running and ive recently been trying even harder to get it running recently by repeatedly buying parts that are what's "wrong" with the vehicle and it definately is still sitting in the garage unable to start, let alone move. When i try to start the vehicle, it just rolls over and sounds like it's about to start then it stops and starts rolling over again but never really stops trying to start i guess. it's easier to hear than explain. but i've replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, changed the oil, drained all the fuel and added new ones, changed the computer(engine control module), coolant changed, and it hasn't changed anything..im not sure what to do now? and i have no way of getting it to the mechanics to have a pro do it, and honestly i still want to do it myself, but i just need to know what's wrong with the damn thing.

 

[wood1]

Did you check it for codes?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255962

 

[GunnerSchenck]

please anyone, any ideas? oh and it has spark, fuel to the rail(i'm pretty sure cuz it comes out of the valve thing), and the fuel pressure gauge hooked up to it doesn't read anything at all(whether the ignition is rolling over or on "off")..any ideas anyone, please.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

i haven't yet, never knew i could do it any way without a scan tool but thanks. i'll be sure to try it.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Do you think it could be the fuel pump relay? cuz i just checked on autozone and it says there's 7 things that could be wrong with the thing and they're listed as following:
-Choke Thermostat
-Fuel Filter
-Relay: Fuel Pumpat
-Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator
-Fuel Pump
-Engine Control Computer
-Fuel Pump Strainer

I have replaced 5 of these 7 things and when i searched on autozone i could not find a choke thermostat, so does it not have one? or does it just mean the thermostat? i'm going to go order(or hopefully pick up if it's in stock) the fuel pump relay for the vehicle tomorrow from autozone and hope for the best i suppose. wish me luck

 

[tweakedlogic]

Check fuses and relays. Make sure your fuel pump is getting power with a multi meter, not a test light.

You can temporarily wire up the the fuel pump to 12v, make sure it's pumping, and turn the key to start to see what happens. if it starts, then you know it's power to the fuel pump.

Something I just thought of... how long has it been sitting? If it's been a really long time, it could be that the fuel lines or injectors are completely clogged with gelled fuel.

I'll bet that it's either the relay, fuel pump ground, fuse or other wiring issue.

 

[jaschlum]

Battery... Starter... or Starter Solenoid.

 

[MrShorty]

fuel to the rail(i'm pretty sure cuz it comes out of the valve thing), and the fuel pressure gauge hooked up to it doesn't read anything at all(whether the ignition is rolling over or on "off")

Assuming the pressure gauge is correct, the engine is not getting fuel, no matter what you get to dribble out of the valve. As I've tinkered with my '92, it seems that the engine needs at least 20-25 psi fuel pressure to run (spec is 35-45 psi). If your gauge is registering 0 psi, then something is wrong with fuel delivery.

Can you hear the pump running (might use a stethoscope on the tank if needed)? If the pump is running, then we need to figure out why the system is not generating pressure. If the pump is not running, we need to get a wiring diagram and a voltmeter and figure out why the pump is not running.

 

[safn1949]

Here is the deal,stop throwing parts at it.You are gonna go broke and probably not fix it. Follow Mr Shorty"s advice and at least get some fuel pressure going on.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

yes, you can hear it turn on when the key is turned. and

 

[GunnerSchenck]

whoops. and idk about the fuel lines and injectors being clogged or anything. i know that it at least gets to the filter cuz when i was changing it i checked. but other than that, you could be right i suppose. how should i go about checking to see if the fuel lines or injectors are clogged up?

 

[Turdle]

A cheap rotary air gauge will work for a fuel pressure test, although it might ruin the gauge. There is a test valve on the passenger side of the fuel rail. Hold the gauge on the valve while someone cranks the engine over--you should get a reading this way. beware of spraying fuel when the guage is placed and removed from the valve.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hardware/auto/60-psi-mini-dial-gauge-color-varies-78205.html

 

[tweakedlogic]

Can you hear the injectors clicking when some one turns the key? It might be hard to hear anyway over the sound of the starter. You can buy, rent, or borrow what's called noid lights. You plug them into the injector electric connector and it will light every time the ECU sends the injector signal.

You might not want to, but you can remove all the injectors and have them cleaned. Just about any diesel shop can do it, or you can send them to some place near your city. Last time I did it for my 22r it was $125 for four. They back flow them, then bench test for even spray patterns and flow. It is unlikely that all six injectors are clogged.

I just thought of something. Get some starting fluid and spray some into your throttle body, then see if it starts. If not, then you have a different problem like spark, inertia switch or something. If you haven't checked for spark, you should. You can either use an inductive timing light (easy) or use an extra spark plug connected to the wire and grounded well (very important) in a spot where you can easily see the electrode while some one turns the key. Do this for every plug wire. I did have to replace the coil pack on my truck once.

 

[Dano!]

To quick test your fuel lines you can first disconnect the line comming into your fuel filter. turn the key and see if fuel comes out. Make sure you have a clear bowl to catch the fuel so you can see if there is contaminants in the fuel.

You can then just move up the fuel lines. Reconnect everything and disconnect your fuel line further up. If fuel stops flowing then you know you have a clog. Or if fuel is only dribbling out that also means a clog.

If you chose to do this, make sure you bleed the air out of the lines through the valve on your fuel rail. I hope you figure it out.

To test if your ground is insufficient (if you don't have a multimeter) you can splice a new ground into the ground wire comming out of the sending unit to any part of the frame. If the engine fires up then there's your problem.

Currently on my Navajo i have a secondary ground comming from the sending unit to make everything work. If you need pictures just let me know.

Good luck.

 

[Dano!]

Another thing that may be wrong is your actual sending unit. Because the wires travel in and out ( no plug on the sending unit cap) the plastic bushing on the underside of the sending unit cap may be melted or eroded away. Which allows power to bypass the fuel pump and just ground out. So take a good look at that.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

i did check for spark and if i put gas or ether or anything like that in the throttle body it does start up for about what im guessing is as long as the ether can sustain it because it dies out in about fiveish seconds after it starts.

also to turtle: i currently have a fuel pressure gauge on the valve on that and it doesn't read anything whether it's off or someone is trying to roll it over

on another note, i do have a multimeter to test stuff...just not how to use it >.<
like i don't know what settings to use for stuff cuz there's like 20 of them haha and pictures for that would be excellent because i might as well try that because even if it doesn't fix it, it's not going to hurt anything to have an extra one there will it?

and as for the sending unit, do you think that could be wrong? cuz i replaced the pump and isn't the sending unit part of the pump? if not i'll look into that

 

[GunnerSchenck]

also, is the original ground wire for the fuel pump inside the wire connector coming off of the faceplate of the fuel pump assembly or is there supposed to be a single ground wire somewhere on it?

 

[MrShorty]

also, is the original ground wire for the fuel pump inside the wire connector coming off of the faceplate of the fuel pump assembly or is there supposed to be a single ground wire somewhere on it?

I once traced the fuel pump ground. IIRC, the fuel pump ground goes out through the wiring harness and ends up bolted to the body behind the radiator overflow reservoir.

on another note, i do have a multimeter to test stuff...just not how to use it >.< like i don't know what settings to use for stuff cuz there's like 20 of them

For most automotive, you'll use two functions: DC volts and Ohms. If your multimeter is autoranging, that should be enough. If you need to set the range, recognize that for resistance, you can end up measuring a variety of values. For voltage, you will generally be seeing 0-12 V, so select whatever range covers that (20 V range seems common).

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Okay, if i find where the ground is located, where do i go from there? like do i connect the new ground to the bolt that the original ground is on? or do i splice into the wire and run the new wire off that? oooor do i re-route the wire and connect it somewhere else? and does it matter what gauge wire i use for the new wire?
ha sorry for all the questions, just not the greatest wire electrical

 

[GunnerSchenck]

whoops meant to say not the greatest with electrical