Fuel guage still wont work after replacing float and pump. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Fuel guage still wont work after replacing float and pump.

H20indicted

Member
Joined
May 31, 2021
Messages
37
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15
City, State
San Angelo, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Explorer Sport
So ive had my 1991 explorer sport since early this year and have done a ton of work to it, i had 2 gauges that didnt work one was the coolant temp gauge and the other being the fuel gauge. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and flushed out the coolant system and it fixed that issue. Today I replaced the fuel pump and float assembly because i read everywhere on here that it was extremely common for the floats to crack and sink. Needless to say it still doesnt work, it always reads empty except when i turn the key off then it reads a quarter tank until i turn the key on again. Any help would be awesome. Thanks
 



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Update for future readers with same issue. It was the anti slosh module behind the gauge cluster. I could not find how to bypass it on this forum so I will post a link to a ranger forum (sorry if thats not allowed but would have been helpful when I was looking for it) that shows you how to do it.

 






You know, I read your first post and at that particular moment I didn't have the 30 minutes to post schematics and troubleshooting thoughts. And I was feeling a little bad about that but you managed to solve it yourself in about 3 hours, which is remarkable. I don't know if your post is allowed either, but it's an easy mod to describe. Pull the module out of the gauge cluster and view it T shape up and components facing you. You will see a row of contact strips, 3 to the left of the latch and 2 to the right of the latch. Use needlenose pliers to strip out the left three contact strips. Then solder a small length of wire to create a short across the two right contact strips. I have not done this myself, but that is what the referenced article shows.

I'll add this, now that I have seen a picture of the slosh module internals: It's a pretty basic circuit consisting of a standard op-amp chip and some stock support parts. I think if I had one of these in my hand I would first of all clean the contacts on the module and the corresponding contacts in the gauge module and see if that fixed it. If not, I would look at the back circuit side for anything suspicious like corrosion byproducts or cracked solder joints. If all of that was ok, I would replacing just the electrolytic capacitor which is the largest part on the board at the top of the T. I think a lot of people here know electrolytic capacitors have a limited lifespan. Other than that, there's a handful of common diodes and resistors, plus the op-amp chip. If you have a friend that dabbles in electronics, they could help you test the parts or you could just have them replace all the parts. That may sound extreme but all the parts put together would cost maybe $10. But I figure it's going to be most likely the contacts, some corrosion somewhere or the capacitor, 9 times out of 10.

Or you could just do the contact modification and call it a day. The only by-product, as one might guess is that the fuel gauge will jump a bit but it should be steady and reliable while you are sitting or driving straight at a constant speed.
 






Thanks for the great info! I am actually an avionics technician by profession so I do "dabble" in electronics just a bit :p and in my case the capacitor was leaking and the large resistor at the top was bad. I had a resistor to replace the bad one but not the cap I needed, I do intend to rebuild it at some point but for now im ok with having any reading at all.
 






Thanks for the great info! I am actually an avionics technician by profession so I do "dabble" in electronics just a bit :p and in my case the capacitor was leaking and the large resistor at the top was bad. I had a resistor to replace the bad one but not the cap I needed, I do intend to rebuild it at some point but for now im ok with having any reading at all.
Avionics tech, hence your screen name. That's awesome. I had a shot to go to Embry-Riddle. I didn't go because it was going to be too expensive. When I would have graduated, I would have been looking for work in the middle of the airline mechanic layoffs, so it wasn't an all bad situation. I wound up in industrial equipment instead, (forklifts and such). We actually hired quite a few airline mechanics at that time.

I've seen your screen name on here and never made the connection to "water in fuel". This as you know, is part of a preflight check. I used to fly and I miss that immensely.
 






Avionics tech, hence your screen name. That's awesome. I had a shot to go to Embry-Riddle. I didn't go because it was going to be too expensive. When I would have graduated, I would have been looking for work in the middle of the airline mechanic layoffs, so it wasn't an all bad situation. I wound up in industrial equipment instead, (forklifts and such). We actually hired quite a few airline mechanics at that time.

I've seen your screen name on here and never made the connection to "water in fuel". This as you know, is part of a preflight check. I used to fly and I miss that immensely.
Oh yeah the schooling is expensive, I actually started as a line technician fueling, deicing, etc and the avionics department at the fbo i worked at heard that I had a background and interest in electronics so they recruited me and trained me on the job, they didnt pay much but it was free experience and now I make a great living at it. Also you are a cleaver man 👍
 






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