Fuel Level sending unit float for 1993 Explorer

[mange1234]

Help,

Once again I am here for help.

I pulled the fuel pump and sending unit assembley on my 1993 Ford Explorer, Push Rod, 4WD SUV. I discovered that the float on the sending unit copper float was leaking and had sunk to the bottom of the fuel tank.

I repaired by soldering and then reinstalled. At which time, I was getting a fuel gauge reading, to my great joy. But, my joy was short lived. lol
My fuel gauge reading today was back to the E mark again. Which tells me that the repairs I made of the float was not satisfactory, and the float had once again sank to bottom of the tank.

The purpose of this blog is to ask for help in finding a replacement "Float"

If anyone knows where I can order a new Float, I would appreciate it. I went to Auto Zone, and they did not act like they wanted to help me. (Think I will change my part store.

Thanks

Mike

 

[Dano!]

You could look on eBay for a sending unit. They are usually cheaper than the parts store. If money is an issue and you want to do a cheap temporary repair you can just screw on something that will be boyent to make it give you a somewhat accurate reading.

If you attatch it on the top it will read empty quicker when you actually have some fuel left.

If money isn't a concern i would just replace the whole thing.

 

[mange1234]

You could look on eBay for a sending unit. They are usually cheaper than the parts store. If money is an issue and you want to do a cheap temporary repair you can just screw on something that will be boyent to make it give you a somewhat accurate reading.

If you attatch it on the top it will read empty quicker when you actually have some fuel left.

If money isn't a concern i would just replace the whole thing.

Hey,

Thanks for the help. It appears we are on the same page, and are thinking out side the box.

I am retired and on a fixed income, so money is an issue with me.

I am trying to think of something that will float. Even thought about putting a couple of ping pong balls inside of the existing float. If, they would fit or if pingpong balls are compatible with gasoline. lol

Also thought about fillling the existing float up with silicone.

I just saw a float on Amazon, but it said it was not compatible with my 1993 Explorer.

Maybe, I can trying to repair existing one again.

One good thing, since I have cut the patch in the back floor of my truck, it is easy to pull the fuel pump and sender.

Thanks and if you come up with any other ideas I will appreciate it.

Mike

 

[Dano!]

When you get it out check that electrical contact that the floater slides up and down on. If that thing is damaged or corroded it will give you a false reading.

If your worried about what kind of plastic will float and not deteriorate you can cut up a small plastic gas can and layer a few pieces together and see if that would work.

 

[mange1234]

When you get it out check that electrical contact that the floater slides up and down on. If that thing is damaged or corroded it will give you a false reading.

If your worried about what kind of plastic will float and not deteriorate you can cut up a small plastic gas can and layer a few pieces together and see if that would work.

 

[mange1234]

Cork float for fuel level sender

When you get it out check that electrical contact that the floater slides up and down on. If that thing is damaged or corroded it will give you a false reading.

If your worried about what kind of plastic will float and not deteriorate you can cut up a small plastic gas can and layer a few pieces together and see if that would work.

That sounds like a great idea. That was on my mind. Even wonder if the cork will deterioarate and plug up the fuel system.

Mike

 

[huntman58]

Mike I am like you fixed income and I am also a penny pincher by want also LOL. If it was me and I knew for sure it was the float and not the electrical contact that the float slides on I would head to a junk yard and do one of two things
1) Find a explorer float or
2) Find any float from any gas tank that I could make fit be it brass or fiber.

My self I like the brass ones that are soldered as I have had way too many fiber floats sink in my life time already.

One other way to do this is make your own using some light tubing from a RC hobby store and once again solder the ends closed and then check it in some water as you look for any bubbles coming off it. As even one tells you you’re leaking after the ones from dunking it are gone.

but being lazy and cheap my self it would be the junk yard or buy the whole set up on line and know not only did I fix the float but that I also took care of a possible bad connection also as I never have had luck cleaning them at all and they do get varnished up sometimes with age. Then too if your smarter then my self you would change out the pump being your already in there. But as you said you have that trap door cut in it now so doing the changes later are easier.

 

[mange1234]

Mike I am like you fixed income and I am also a penny pincher by want also LOL. If it was me and I knew for sure it was the float and not the electrical contact that the float slides on I would head to a junk yard and do one of two things
1) Find a explorer float or
2) Find any float from any gas tank that I could make fit be it brass or fiber.

My self I like the brass ones that are soldered as I have had way too many fiber floats sink in my life time already.

One other way to do this is make your own using some light tubing from a RC hobby store and once again solder the ends closed and then check it in some water as you look for any bubbles coming off it. As even one tells you you’re leaking after the ones from dunking it are gone.

but being lazy and cheap my self it would be the junk yard or buy the whole set up on line and know not only did I fix the float but that I also took care of a possible bad connection also as I never have had luck cleaning them at all and they do get varnished up sometimes with age. Then too if your smarter then my self you would change out the pump being your already in there. But as you said you have that trap door cut in it now so doing the changes later are easier.

Hey,

Thanks for the infomation. I have enjoyed your message. Seems we are on the same page more or less.

First, I was going to buy any type of float and make it fit. But, went to three auto parts stores and could not fine one.

So, went to the hardware store around the corner from me and looker for a piece of copper tubing about 1 1/2 inch dia in order to solder ends closed and make float.

But, could not find right size tubing. And, being impatiece, and not wanting to wait until tomorrow, I bought a piece of 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe and two end caps.

Cut a two inch length of pvc pipe, glued on the ends. Grinded a grove in the pipe to fit the wire arm on the sender.

Put the pvc float that I just fabricate in a bucket of water and it floated. But, realizing that the density of gasoline is much less than that of water, I put gasoline in a bucket and put the float in. It did not float. bummer

The boyncy of the new float was not great enough to overcome weight of the plastic pipe. In addition, we also have the weight of the wire arm to lift also.

So, I went to the bench grinder and started grinding away platic pipe until I had boyancy. haha and after grinding portion of pipe, it floated in gasoline.

Then, put the new float on the sended and immereced it in gasoline. Again it did not float up, due to weight of wire arm.

So, back to the grinder. And finally, removed enough plastic so the float would have enough boycancy to lift it own weight and that of the wire arem

Put pump and sender back in tank, conneced the wires and quick connectors and put trapdoor cover and back seat back in place.

Tested resistance on sender to level of gas in tank, and obseved fuel gauge on dash board. I was reading about 40 ohms for a 1/4 tank reading on the gauge. Which I figured to be close to accurate.

However, There is one thing that confised me. When I turn off the key, the gauge did not drop down to zero. oh wll. I carry a gallon of gas in truck in case I made a mistake.

With the trapdoor, it takes me 15 minutes to remove back seat (driver's side only) remove patch and pull pump assembly.

Good luck and thanks for listening.

Mike in Virginia Beach

Oh by the way, total cost was about $6.00. And $5.00 of that was for the PVC glue. pipe and caps were less that a buck. lol

 

[huntman58]

PVC never would have thought of that with Gas but hey why not as long as it dose not eat it or the glue. as for the gauge dropping to zero when the key is off I can tell you mine dose not do that and I still have the OEM build sender and float in mine so that should not be a problem.

Glad you got a good old shade tree fix and so cheep also need to remember this one right with my log tie rod trail fix in case there ever needed /again .

 

[Kevinh71047]

My gas guage when the truck ain't running my guage goes up and when i crank it and go it goes down any suggestions

 

[EApollo101]

My gas guage when the truck ain't running my guage goes up and when i crank it and go it goes down any suggestions

I'm having the same problem I already changed the sending unit and check the fuse what else could it be?

 

[Smokey Smith]

Trap door? Trying to find directions to cut a hole in floor plate to access the gas sending unit for replacement. 1993 Eddie Bauer. Suggestions appreciated as existing link in Forum (2013) seems dead. Smokey

 

[smegun]

mine was always full I changed just the pump the first time on a performance issue second time the sender went …. playing with the gap on the sender poping in floats is no good variable pots still suck I blame my parabola on techron chevron fuel system cleaner without running all the gas out of the truck sitting with cleaner in it