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fuel pressure regulator

Bix

Active Member
Joined
April 16, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Edmonton
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 X xlt
I have been having some issues with throttle and gas, and was wondering if my fuel pressure regulator was to blame. I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve and got out the trusty haynes manual. It states that normal pressure should be between 30-45. It was around 32 when i tested it. Since the gap is so large inbetween the 30-45 where as my old blazer needed 60 on the dot and nothing over or between i was wondering if my regulator is starting to go since its getting close to 30 or if a brand new regulator would also read from 30-45? has anyone replaced it and seen a 40-45 reading ?
i dont know what else would cause the fluctuation between 30-45 but the regulator since im pretty sure my fuel pump is working well.

Thanks for info anyone has on this issue
 



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The regulator just regulates the pressure, it doesn't have much to do with pressure being on the low side, other than one that is leaky or going bad will cause pressure to go below spec.

You might try replacing the fuel filter, a clogged filter can cause fuel system issues, though it's usually something you'd see in drivability rather than in fuel system pressure. Just being pretty sure the fuel pump is working well doesn't mean it's not wearing out and not up to the task of delivering the fuel system pressures needed. Even when an old fuel pump is doing ok, a new one sometimes provides a performance jolt by delivering strong pressure the old one was no longer capable of.
 






Thanks for the info. i can hear the fuel pump in my cab when im iddling at a stop light, is that normal? maybe its starting to get stressed and its on its last legs and struggling to send enough pressure up fast enough. I looked in my haynes manual for the fuel filter loction and it tells me to refer to the maintenance section but then doesnt include it.. odd. maybe im missing a page somewhere along the line. do you know of a forum that explains how to check/replace the fuel filter?
 






When the fuel pump starts to get REALLY loud, that's a sign it might be working especially hard and might need to be replaced. Aftermarket pumps can still be pretty loud, I replaced a very noisy OE pump with an aftermarket assembly from NAPA and it's actually loud enough to hear from outside the vehicle, but not from the interior. Replacement gave a big boost in performance, making it $100 well spent. I suggest buying the entire fuel pump assembly since the factory assembly is made from mild steel and is usually rusted to the point you wouldn't want to re-use it with a new pump.

Here's one post on replacing the fuel filter:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2324648#post2324648
 






thanks alot im going to see how much an entire new assembly will cost. im dropping my tank anyway becuase my gas gauge doesnt work and i thinkt he float sunk or someone who was working on it didnt place it properly n its stuck because the sending unit is good cuz its right on E not pinned down.
 






If the pump is still the factory original you may be surprised to find the reason the gas gauge doesn't work is because the float arm rusted off the pump assembly! The floats can also rust or just spring a leak and then...not float, making is so they're always showing the tank empty.

I'd say get a whole new pump assembly, be sure to get a fuel pump lock ring if the pump doesn't come with one. Clean out the tank while you have it dropped, and be sure to replace the fuel filter while you're at it. Then check the fuel system pressure and it should be much improved.
 






For what it's worth, I was troubleshooting a problem that eventually ended up being the PCM, but in looking at the fuel pressure along the way, I found that my fuel pressure was also about 30 psi. I could cycle the key on and off a few times (not start) and build it up to 42, but driving it with the gauge hooked up showed 30 psi.

I considered it normal.
 






Can i ask you how much the new PCM was and how u came to the conclusion thats what it was? cuz i dont think i should be getting 30 psi if everything is good and dandy. New fuel pumps are around 320 so its quite the costly procedure right now. so if i could troubleshoot n find out if its the pcm itd be nice to know,

Thanks
 






oh wait so the PCM had ntohing to do with the fuel pressure you just noticed along the way u had 30 psi also.
 






and thanks anime im dropping the tank today to see if maybe the float sunk if its original or if maybe the ground rusted off the sending unit. ill never know til i drop her n take a look! if i find anything worth sharing i will
 






i will be purchasing a whole new assembly to fix my pressure ( hopefully ) maybe in a few weeks when i have some money to spare. But for now i would like to tackle my gauge even though i could just wait til i need a new pump but wheres the fun in NOT taking out the tools n working on the old betty.
 






New fuel pumps are around 320 so its quite the costly procedure right now.

$320? Find a better place to buy parts at a reasonable price. The only fuel pump that is $300+ is the OE Motorcraft one from the dealer. Get an aftermarket assembly, they are anywhere from $60-120.

I would just get the pump assembly and lock ring (the pump should come with the rubber o-ring to seal it to the tank), throw it in along with a fuel filter, and you should have good fuel pressure and a working gauge.
 






The reason i looked at the OE one cuz i had a bad experience with aftermarket ones but i did some research and aparently the airtex are garbage and tend to fail but there are still some good ones. I am gonna shop around, going to call napa tomorrow and see if there is any reasonable priced ones and ive seen most come with the sending unit aswell.
 






The OE one is just an overpriced aftermarket unit. I bought the $100+ one from Napa which seems to be a Carter unit and it works great. Haven't had the slightest problem with it for years now. The assembly was also stainless steel instead of the mild steel of the OE and cheaper units. You can avoid Airtex and still get a good aftermarket product.
 






thanks alot i droped my tank yesterday and called both napa and part source and they had to order one for me.. just my luck. So since my tank was dropped i found out my pump was the original and the float had sunk. I took a cast iron pan and put alot of soder (lead) in it n heated it up and gave the float a bath in it n coated the leaks that were in it. I had to get my tank back up because its my daily driver. The gas gauge is now working but i will be replacing the entire unit once the carter one i ordered does come in.

Thanks alot for the help along the way
 






I like your resourcefullness with the soder, thats great!
 






oh wait so the PCM had ntohing to do with the fuel pressure you just noticed along the way u had 30 psi also.

Yes, I had a different problem. But before changing the PCM, I eliminated everything else. Fuel pressure was just one of the tests I did.

BTW, I agree. That's a great temporary fix on your float!
 






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