FUEL PUMP ACCESS PANEL 95 - 96 ( 97?) FOUR DOOR

[EB4X]

Hey gang,
Thought I'd post this for anyone interested....I'm not sure if the 97 is in same spot (most likely since same back hatch/ setup) but sure 98 and up are a few inches further back and to the left a hair --and more troublesome due to metal contour. (The part numbers for a 95 versus a 96 gas tank are DIFFERENT...but pump falls EXACTLY at some spot ...as expected.)
Anyway, here's some pics...couple with notes...
Will probably post after pics of custom cover panel once pump arrives --might clean up / file back cut too. The back area/ cut before upward slant becomes a double layer hence semi sloppy cut --- my cheapo metal nibbler couldn't handle double layer -- would recommend using beefier/thicker cut range if had to do again --though this cheapo one worked like a champ for 80% of job.... didn't go over small rib though either. (Only $11.49 on Ebay - free ship) Had to cut Sawzall / reciprocating saw blade down to about a 1 1/2" length (for safety) to tackle challenging spots. (Stupid blades wouldn't stay in jig saw...otherwise that would've been great option)

 

[allmyEXes]

Good job! I just did thid 3 weeks ago to access pump in an emergency. I still don't know how easy or difficult it is to unplug the wiring harness going to the pump assembly.

 

[EB4X]

Good job! I just did thid 3 weeks ago to access pump in an emergency. I still don't know how easy or difficult it is to unplug the wiring harness going to the pump assembly.

I read some guy just cut and spliced AT PUMP... I wouldn't do that... on the 95,96 (probably most)....the plug/harness quick disconnect is just a couple inches in front of axle near wheel (drivers side of course)....just about a foot or so above the axle....

**Actually to call any Ford plugs "quick disconnect" is being generous....

 

[EB4X]

I still don't know how easy or difficult it is to unplug the wiring harness going to the pump assembly.
HA! My previous statement was going on what guy on video stated about location.... just went out with flashlight to trace from the top down and it's only about a 1 1/2' down... I can reach down from top and unplug! win win!.. ( Had nice weather today so had to paint cladding on Jeep GC and put swap out off till tomorrow..)

 

[CDW6212R]

Good work, that's just about the right size hole for the task. It might help if the hole went farther to the left side for the fuel lines and the connector, with rounded corners. It looks like making it as close to the center seat belt is ideal, and to the back as far as feasible too. The corners of the hole could be a good 1" radius and work well.

Thanks for the latest pictures, those help the next person who tries to hunt pics to guess where the hole should go etc.

 

[EB4X]

Good work, that's just about the right size hole for the task. It might help if the hole went farther to the left side for the fuel lines and the connector, with rounded corners. It looks like making it as close to the center seat belt is ideal, and to the back as far as feasible too. The corners of the hole could be a good 1" radius and work well.

Thanks for the latest pictures, those help the next person who tries to hunt pics to guess where the hole should go etc.

On the right side -- where fuel lines / wiring comes in I feel I have more than enough spacing--I wanted to have good access but at same time not cut away too much. On left next to seat belt harness as shown you can see where that's the second spot where there's another double layer of metal (like back section)- thus my nibbler tool could not cut that and didn't want to hairball it with sawzall -- being I saw video (that was cut same amount there) that revealed with just slight pivot the entire pump assembly slides right by that no prob...just the wide top circle of course needs to sneak by it....and was accomplished without banging the float in process.
** So I go out to swap out pump and tire that has slow leak is worse--plug in compressor --flattens tire--air no longer coming out hose but inside unit- have to jack up and remove address tire / do all that and second Autozone near me doesn't have fuel pressure kit combing with disconnect kit...could work around but want nice and smooth)
--so now doing this today is postponed....good thing it's not my daily!.. Anyway here's MORE on the plug.... PIECE OF CAKE....made slip not....guided down to rear of harness and enough slack to pull up for easy disconnect AND roped in place for re-connect... SEE PICS:
**("allmyexes")--you might want to do this here in advance so you have it ready to go for your "in case emergency" scenario ....overlanding trip etc...of course you'd have to re-seal cover assuming you got one on there now......make small notch for string to fit in at edge and RTV it up around string as well....
EDIT: Since had to postpone installation I went ahead and cut back section about another 1/2" back...

 

[gush]

I read some guy just cut and spliced AT PUMP... I wouldn't do that... on the 95,96 (probably most)....the plug/harness quick disconnect is just a couple inches in front of axle near wheel (drivers side of course)....just about a foot or so above the axle....

**Actually to call any Ford plugs "quick disconnect" is being generous....

After 20 years on my 99 explorer the quick disconnects dont disconnect anymore, I had to cut the line on both sides and put a hose on each side and use small adjustible hose clamps just like they used for the last 70 yrs before planned obsolescence was invented!

 

[239]

Too bad ford didn’t just put a panel there like they did above the transmission.

 

[allmyEXes]

Click on the link below to a 4 pin 12 gauge connector set that I solder and heat shrinked in near the pump. Worked out well.
4 pin connector ebay