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Fuel pump / Fuel tank - Tips and warnings

After having read all of this post and the pics and everything...Does anybody happen to know the specific pump for my ex? It's made in the USA and is a 1995 XLT Control trac 4x4. Don't wanna go through what some of us have including dude that wrote this up with the pics and find i've got the wrong pump.
Thanks!

Go to rockauto.com and use their search engine. There are more than twenty fuel pumps there for your particular year. Looks like the relevant Motorcraft part number for your car is PFS40 (double check with vendor before you buy). That's for the complete kit with sender unit. There are also a lot of choices for just the fuel pump. That complete kit from Motorcraft makes the job super easy, if you're willing to spend the extra dough. Good luck.
 



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Yeah i had checked rock auto a few days ago, looked pretty good there. Ended up calling a local parts store down the road there and asked what they could get via my vin number... The lady seemed to know alot about the problems that had been had with the various fuel pumps and the first question she had to ask was where was it made (us/canada/mexico) and found the part right away. I did just get the pump and not the sender unit, so it'll be a little more work but i wasn't in the mood to spend between 200 and 400 for a sender unit assembly all together. I got a brand that wasn't airtex, it's called spectra i think? Got a warranty and all on it so if it goes to **** too fast or ends up being the wrong one, i can get it replaced. But the pump and fuel filter only cost me $105 with tax. Gonna try to put it in this week sometime. Hoping for tomorrow. Thanks for the help. also i did look up the motorcraft part number on rockauto, it looked to have been around 400.
 






I've heard good things about the Spectra units. Good price. Hope it works out for you.
 






Thanks man, i'm glad to hear you've heard good things about them cause i don't think i've seen them mentioned in the forum yet in this discussion. But i figured it ain't airtex it has to be worth something! I'll let ya know how it turns out here this week once i get it in.
 






Exactly what I was looking!!! Fuel pump is going but just in case.. I'll know what to do! Much thanks!
 






So it took me till the weekend to get it to my friends garage and when we rolled under there noticed that my tank (assuming because mines 4x4) was all on the drivers side of the vehicle. One strap attached to the frame and skid plate, and one other holding the tank to the frame. That's about far as we made it getting back to it tomorrow.
 






Got it in and up and running again! Starts on the first crank now, where as before it'd turn for about 3-5 seconds before firing... Gonna replace the fuel filter after a day or two just incase there was any dirt knocked loose. Don't wanna clog up a new filter.
 






removing fuel pump

didn,t anyone tell you that you don,t need to remove tank to replace pump. some where there are pictures on how to replace pump from inside of back seat, i replace useing the procedure took less than two hrs and was very easy. any more info olemech@verizon.net
 






didn,t anyone tell you that you don,t need to remove tank to replace pump. some where there are pictures on how to replace pump from inside of back seat, i replace useing the procedure took less than two hrs and was very easy. any more info olemech@verizon.net

Since there is no direct access to the fuel pump from inside the car, the procedure you mention would require cutting through the floor's sheet metal to access the top of the fuel pump. I don't see how that would be easier than simply dropping the fuel tank.
 






nice story.just one question that will take me back to the beggining.why did this fuel pump frie while doing rotors.
 






nice story.just one question that will take me back to the beggining.why did this fuel pump frie while doing rotors.

It was just a coincidence and the OP was just making a joke.
 






very helpful

Thank you, I will attempt this on my daily tomorrow, hopefully, I will have some help, and not just moral support.
 






Need help with gas tank fuel line connection on 96 explorer 4x4.
I dropped the tank, then installed tank, then a fuel line connector at the tank on top leaks! Have lowered back of tank, can barely grab line but do not know what to do with it to make connection right?
Please help.
 






Need help with gas tank fuel line connection on 96 explorer 4x4.
I dropped the tank, then installed tank, then a fuel line connector at the tank on top leaks! Have lowered back of tank, can barely grab line but do not know what to do with it to make connection right?
Please help.

You have to push those lines hard until you hear an audible snap. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of effort. Once you hear the snap, pull back on it to make sure it is connected. They can fool you into thinking they are on there if you're not careful.

I hate those quick snap lines. It's a good concept, but if any measure of sand, dust or grit gets in there, it's a major headache trying to get one disconnected. When I recently worked on my Mountaineer, I cut those out and installed high pressure rubber hoses with screw clamps and they work wonderfully.
 






A word of caution about the fuel pump strainer...

When installing the fuel pump assembly back into the tank, be very careful to make sure you don't press the fuel pump strainer against the sides of the sump.

If you do and you distort its shape or bend it in such a way that it is not resting flat on the bottom of the tank, when the fuel level gets low (about 1/4 tank) it won't be able to pick up the remaining fuel. Essentially, you'll run out of gas with about 1/4 tank (more or less) still remaining in the bottom.

My recommendation is to turn the assembly approximately 90 degrees clockwise as you are reinstalling it in the tank. When it is almost bottomed out, gently turn the assembly to the correct position and reinstall the bolts.

If you are in doubt that it installed correctly, you can remove the evap valve and peer into the tank with a flashlight to make sure the strainer is correctly positioned.

I made this mistake and I can tell you it's not a good feeling to be setting on the side of the road when your fuel gauge is still showing over 1/4 tank full of gas. Until I fixed this, my Mountaineer would stall or even die when coming to a stop or going down a steep hill once the fuel level got down close to the 1/4 mark.
 






I got by with a one-knuckler got myslef on the leaf spring while torqueing up the skid plate bolts.
 






my 95 for explorer xlt willnot start just turn over i replaced the fuel pump fuel filter pump relay and 20 amp fuse. i also checked the new pumpby hooking it straight to the battery before installing it and it still wont start anything else i can check that could be wrong?????
 






I had a similar problem with my '95 Sport when i bought it. Could drive it for weeks on end with no problems what so ever. Then all of the sudden out of nowhere BOOM, it will crank but not start. After replacing the fuel pump and still having the problem I realized one day that while it was cranking, with no pump hum, that the CEL wasnt on. Replaced the PCM relay and BOOM, running like a champ ever since.

Maybe something a few of you guys might be having trouble with as well and just havent gotten to it yet.


Just a thought.


Keith
 






In answer to query of why bare wires in tank does not led to an explosion/fire. Not an engineer by any means but the simple explanation is lack of oxygen in the tank. The fumes from gasoline completely fill tank leaving no oxygen. For there to be a fire/ignition in tank you need oxygen.
 



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Not an engineer by any means but the simple explanation is lack of oxygen in the tank. the fumes from gasoline completely fill tank leaving no oxygen.

Lack of oxygen in the tank? The oxygen supply comes from the air intake, not the gas tank. I don't think the the level of oxygen in the gas tank is an issue, but I could be wrong...
 






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