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Fuel pump question.

Motorhogman

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 22, 2018
Messages
260
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Location
SC
City, State
Hartsville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer Sport
2000 Explorer Sport. 150,000 mi. I've owned 22 years. Cranks over but no start issue. Has good spark. No fuel when the no start occurred. Sprayed manifold cleaner in the throttle body and it fires right up and putters out. I checked the pump relay by swapping it with a known good relay ( horn has same relay) Checked the emergency shut off switch, good there. Checked all fuses in the system. No sound from the pump when the key is turned to the on position. Today I went out and tried it, no sound turning the key on, tried a few times and then the familiar whirring noise. Started right up. Obviously nothing is fixed. Here's my question. Do these electric in tank pumps fail intermittently ? Should I be looking any where else ? Thanx for any replies in advance.
 



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Yes, they can land on a bad spot on the commutator or brushes worn out and it'll be hit or miss if they spin up. If you want to do one last check before pulling the tank (or some people cut an access hole in their floor pan), disconnect the electrical connector to it and verify that 12V gets to it every time you cycle the key on.

It is probably the fuel pump, but you never know with wiring this old. I forget which brand is most liked, think maybe Bosch is good and Spectra not, anyone? There are topics about it, think maybe Koda recommended a seller on ebay.
 






Thanks for the reply J_C. I'll have to take a look under there and see if the electrical connector is accessible. I like the idea of checking to see if power is making it to the pump. Bosch has always been good in my experience, along with good and $$ pricey. lol It might be a while before I get around to looking into it further. I am definitely considering cutting the floor panel. The tank is about Full. I have the tools to cut it easily. The biggest challenge will be where to cut.

Thanks again
Tom
 






OH... yeah you have a Sport, there are more topics with pics for the 4-drs' access hole location but here's one for the Sport:


On the other hand it is fairly easy to sipon much of the gas out by removing the filler tube hose at the tank nipple and putting a small siphon hose in there. Some people take more elaborate measures to do it, but I feel like this is the least hassle, least intrusive option, just need a wrench or pliers to get the hose clamp loose, UNLESS your hose is so dry rotted that disturbing it, causes a leak.
 












OH... yeah you have a Sport, there are more topics with pics for the 4-drs' access hole location but here's one for the Sport:


On the other hand it is fairly easy to sipon much of the gas out by removing the filler tube hose at the tank nipple and putting a small siphon hose in there. Some people take more elaborate measures to do it, but I feel like this is the least hassle, least intrusive option, just need a wrench or pliers to get the hose clamp loose, UNLESS your hose is so dry rotted that disturbing it, causes a leak.
TY for the info. I'll take a look.
 












be careful cutting the floor board. Not trying to be a negative Nancy but sparks and gasoline vapors make a dangerous mix as you know. Probably have done this job a half dozen times ( have had 4 of these vehicles for the last 15 years ) and the old fashioined way is not that bad. To be honest, if, I was cutting a hole in the floor above the gas tank, I probably would remove the tank and get it far away from the cutting job.
 












A cutoff wheel will cause lots of sparks.
I used a reciprocating saw to cut my access
Panel, with hardly any sparks. I used a drill on
the four corners.
Many car mfgs have these panels built in; Ford
should have.

I used a Bosch replacement on the Explorer, and
A Carter on the Ranger a few years ago. The Carter was USA made back then, don't know about now...?

Both have worked flawlessly for the past few years.
 






Spent a little time on this. Have the cut out area roughed in.

IMG_20221129_142224196.jpg
 






A cutoff wheel will cause lots of sparks.
I used a reciprocating saw to cut my access
Panel, with hardly any sparks. I used a drill on
the four corners.
Many car mfgs have these panels built in; Ford
should have.

I used a Bosch replacement on the Explorer, and
A Carter on the Ranger a few years ago. The Carter was USA made back then, don't know about now...?

Both have worked flawlessly for the past few years.
Won't be making any sparks. Drill a hole at each corner and I will use a pneumatic muffler gun with a sheet metal cutting bit.. You are right. They should all have an access plate.
 












I'm pretty good at smelling gas, so I'd park it in the garage or wait for a non-windy day if outdoors, to poke my head up near the tank and see if there's any gas smell. At the same time, any buildup of fumes will be least on a windy day outdoors if you want a safer environment.

Am I mistaken or wouldn't it be the case that any significant leaks would be enough to trigger an evap system code?
 






2000 Explorer Sport. 150,000 mi. I've owned 22 years. Cranks over but no start issue. Has good spark. No fuel when the no start occurred. Sprayed manifold cleaner in the throttle body and it fires right up and putters out. I checked the pump relay by swapping it with a known good relay ( horn has same relay) Checked the emergency shut off switch, good there. Checked all fuses in the system. No sound from the pump when the key is turned to the on position. Today I went out and tried it, no sound turning the key on, tried a few times and then the familiar whirring noise. Started right up. Obviously nothing is fixed. Here's my question. Do these electric in tank pumps fail intermittently ? Should I be looking any where else ? Thanx for any replies in advance.
All fuel pump fail at some time. One thing you did not try or do; is disconnect the fuel filter and turn the key and see if the fuel is coming out of the fuel line. The pump is not that bad too replace. Just a note!! When I drop my tank my tank strap was broken (TSB). My 95 the filler pipes where rusted in place ( twist the hose too loosen them uses spray lube). I believe the early years used a quick disconnect. Yours I believe, uses a band clamp. 4 bolt hold the protection plate in place. The filler hoses, the tank strap, lower the tank a little. Undo the fuel line connectors, removed the vacuum hose to the tank vent valve (you turn it to the left too release it from the tank). Lower the tank some more undo the electrical connector. Hopefully the tank is empty. I had a problem with removing one fuel pump bolt. See the other posts on the forum about which pump too buy.
 






Another NO-SPARK TOOL, and cheap too >> Nibbler Cutting Tool Saw Power Drill Attachment
NIBBLER.jpg
 






All fuel pump fail at some time. One thing you did not try or do; is disconnect the fuel filter and turn the key and see if the fuel is coming out of the fuel line. The pump is not that bad too replace. Just a note!! When I drop my tank my tank strap was broken (TSB). My 95 the filler pipes where rusted in place ( twist the hose too loosen them uses spray lube). I believe the early years used a quick disconnect. Yours I believe, uses a band clamp. 4 bolt hold the protection plate in place. The filler hoses, the tank strap, lower the tank a little. Undo the fuel line connectors, removed the vacuum hose to the tank vent valve (you turn it to the left too release it from the tank). Lower the tank some more undo the electrical connector. Hopefully the tank is empty. I had a problem with removing one fuel pump bolt. See the other posts on the forum about which pump too buy.
Thanks. The tank is almost full. That's one of a couple of reasons I'm not dropping it. I'm going to figure the fuel filter is OK because it will run under load up hill (60 - 65 mph) with no sign of starving for fuel. It will start and run if the key is cycled a few times.. As mentioned in other replies I'll be checking to see if power is consistently going to the pump before pulling it. I'm pretty sure it's the pump, but that will be the determining factor. PB Blaster and lots of patience are my friends.
 






Another NO-SPARK TOOL, and cheap too >> Nibbler Cutting Tool Saw Power Drill Attachment
View attachment 436786
Neat ! didn't know this tool existed. Lots of options for them on a search. Only spec I could find on any of them was it will cut 14 Ga metal. Not sure if that is heavy duty enough for these floor boards. Have you any experience using one for this purpose. I can't resist a new tool, especially for that kind of money if it works for the purpose. .
 






A nibbler is a good idea if you can maneuver it where it needs to go.

If you have an air compressor, air shears are awesome. Just drill a hole at each corner and connect the dots with the shears.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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.





A nibbler is a good idea if you can maneuver it where it needs to go.

If you have an air compressor, air shears are awesome. Just drill a hole at each corner and connect the dots with the shears.
Yes, I have an air compressor and the pneumatic muffler gun with the sheet metal bit should cut the floor pretty easy. That's the plan, drill 4 holes and cut.
 






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