Changing the Fuel Pump
Matt,
Yeah, you've about got it, and Perry's right about the locking ring which you turn using a large screwdriver and a hammer. The tricky part is dealing with the fuel. If you have the option, running the tank as close to empty is optimum, cause a full tank is very heavy, and dealing with 15 or more gallons of gas is a pain, you have to siphon it out 'cause the the tanks don't have a drain and all the connections are at the top, where you can't get to until the tank is lowered. The fill neck has an Anti-siphom baffle to prevent fuel theft just to complicate things! Unfortunately, Murphy is hard at work, and fuel pumps don't usually fail when the tank is low.
Fortunately, when I dropped my tank, it was to replace a noisy pump, that still worked and also I took the opportunity to install the RFI radio interference filter kit which attaches to the pump, at the same time, so I had the luxury of picking my time, when the tank was empty. Most aren't that lucky.
Another tricky part of the tank R&R is dealing with about 5 hoses, like the filler line, filler vent, fuel feed, fuel return and some sort of a vapor recycling line, all attached to the top, a couple of which have to be unconnected and reconnected with the tank only slightly lowered, and you're connecting hoses and clamps by braille. Don't forget the electrical connections, which are hidden too. In short. it's pretty much an all day job, especially the first time, and being done on the driveway, without a hoist, that requires two persons for some parts of the operation.
Again, not rocket science, just time consuming.