Full Size F series axle/ xfer/ spring swap

[91nut]

After taking a trip through Eagle lakes Ca. and the Fordyce trail in my stock 91 Explorer I was thinking about some major mods. Can't do them 'till I get money but that is what I get for being a teacher. I have a couple of good friends with well built Landcruisers and Cherokee's. I told them about buying a donor vehicle possibly a Bronco or a 75-82 F-150 or 250. Bronco's can be a little pricey and hard to find. It would be easy to find a F series pickup with a D44 and a 9 inch in the rear. I am looking for a full size swap with all the drivetrain from the tranny/ x fer case/ axles / springs/ and then a disc conversion in the rear.
I have searched the website for this type of transfer but with no luck. Has any done this before?
I think this would be the least expensive way to do it. I know I would be lengthening the drivelines and doing a little crossmember work along the frame to adapt the leaf spring if I decide to use the F series set-up. Any advice would be good because I need to make room in the budget.

After seeing the prices to get a driveshaft cut down to adapt a Bronco front axle and required equipment, I thought it would be worth a shot if someone has done this mod before.

P.S.- People were awed by the stock explorer's ability to clear a semi difficult trail in the Sierra Nevada's. Nothing but props.
Joe

 

[Robb]

That is exactly what I have planned for my X, but getting the wife pregnant has pushed that back EVEN farther back.

All of the F150 D44s are going to have coil brackets on them, and on the '78-'79 version, the coil brackets are not removable. In '80, the F150s (and Broncos) went to a TTB D44 front end. The F250 D44 are leaf sprung, and I am unsure of the exact years. The leaf perches are going to be too wide for your frame, unless you fab up some sort of "outside the frame" shackle setup. Of course, just welding some new perches to the axle is not a big deal.

The problem with using the driveline is that the donor tranny won't bolt to your 4.0. So, unless you can go all out and do an engine swap, you are stuck with your current tranny and t-case (unless you rob a bank of course ). I wouldn't worry too much with driveshafts at this point..............they are the least of the problems. You have to fab up new steering links and all sorts of stuff.

Least expensive, maybe, but probably not. The D44/9" are probably going to have 3.55:1 gears in them, and open carriers. With your X engine, anything over a 32" tire is gonna suck with that gearing. So, you can probably get the axles super cheap (I paid $300 for both), but with regearing and traction devices, they get expensive real quick.

Also remember that staying full-width limits where you can go out on the trails. Those XJs and Cruisers are going to be able to go places you can't because you are too wide (about 8-9" wider). Your advantage is that you are more stable though.

Take a look through the "Solid Axle Swap Forum" here for bunches of more info. I believe there are at least a couple of guys that have used full width axles (Coda, and maybe Grape Ape).

Out of curiousity, what would you ultimately like to accomplish with your X? What kind of trails? What size tires? Etc.

 

[91nut]

Full width baby

I want a full inclusive trail rig. I want it capable of doing the Rubicon along with the other local four wheel trails. Did you say the T-18 won't adapt to the 4.0? Even with an adapter (if they make one and the cost). I already have a set of 36" TSL Super swampers from a friend and I know I will need to do the gears. I would like to use the leaf springs from the F series and I know I need to weld a crossmember to accept the new spring width. I am currently taking a welding class at a local JC for the correct way to weld (After years of guessing). The steering would need to be addressed but I think I can get away with the steering out of the donor vehicle.

I am also interested if there are any X clubs out near Sacramento that I can join or talk with and see their rigs.
Joe

 

[Robb]

In reference to trannys: No fullsize Ford tranny is going to bolt up to your 4.0. In regards to mannys, you can run the stock Mazda MRO5 (or whatever it is) or convert over to a T5. Solid autos are hard to come by. IMO, your options are a C5 from a '84-'85 Bronc II (no OD), or a GM 700R4 kit conversion, info here.

If you want leafs, you will need a pre-'78 F150, or F250 D44. The F250 will be 8-lug, and a ******* to convert the rear axle to. The pre-'78 F150 will be an easily convertible 5x5.5 lug, but you will probably have to do a disc brake conversion on it.

I have never been to "the 'con", but I would think that being fullwidth would be a huge disadvantage there. A lot of those trails there look awfully "skinny."

If you only plan to run 36s and run leafs..............there is a cheaper/easier way of going about it IMO. And it would put you at the same level, if not higher, than those well built Js and Cruisers.

 

[RangerX]

Arsoul put a 1st gen Ex body onto a 79 F250 chassis.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41314&page=1&pp=20&highlight=arsoul

 

[Fusion213]

A route you could go axle/suspension wise could be to do what Lizardtrac did.
Stick with the 8.8 rear(maybe swap it out for a disc braked one) and go wagoneer D44 front. Then get adapters for the rear for 5on5.5 and run flattop knuckles with chevy disc brakes and ford hub and rotor so you can have 5 on 5.5 in the front.

 

[offroader_69_me]

I am running a 76 f-100 D44 HP front axle and a 87 f-150 8.8 both full width, with coils in front and stock leaves in back, it is wider, but wider is better!

 

[91nut]

maybe Im wrong

In regards to the Wagoneer front D44, isn't that a passenger side pumkin? THen I would need to change my T-case with a new tranny to accept the new angles. If not, then that would be the way I would go. Two questions:
1. What is the width of the Wagoneer D44?
2. Is it a passenger side pumkin?

 

[Robb]

2. It is driver drop
1. I think about 61", but don't quote me on that

 

[91nut]

Well if it is 61" then I would need to cut it down to fit the rear width and that is what I wanted to avoid. Cost being the main thing and accessibility for a new driveshaft if one is snapped. It sounds great in theory unless there is a way not to get it cut down and still run it.
I do like the idea because my rear axle is strong enough and the D44 would be enough (for awhile).

 

[91nut]

Wagoneer D44

Just found this,

Grand Wagoneer front axle -
width - 60 3/4"
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 3/8"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 39 1/2"

This would work well

 

[Fusion213]

You'd probably run adapters in the back so the rear would get spaced close to the waggy front.
The FSJs came with pass drops first then went to driver drops.

 

[Robb]

Let me throw an idea by you, and you can take it with a grain of salt if you wish.

Pick yourself up a YJ or XJ high pinion RC D30 from a junkyard, probably run you about $150. Then keep an eye on the classifieds sections of the various Jeep forums, and over at pirate4x4, for some alloy axle shafts with better u-joints. Those will run about $200 used.

IMO, and looking at the actual specs of D30s and D44s, this setup should be stronger than a Jeep low pinion SC D44 (although have a smaller r&p). This setup will also give you close to stock width to match your 8.8, and give you the same bolt pattern for the wheels.