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FullBlownModz Dana 44 SAS Build

Hey forum! After having a hub bearing go out to me on the way to work, i figured its time for the ifs to go. I went on Craigslist and couldnt find anything but housings and half complete d44s. I finally found a set of complete axles from a 77 f150. I got the full width hp d44, for 9 inch, all suspension components, 4 speed trans, and a np205 transfer case all for $500! Im about to be heading to college in 2 months so i plan for this build to be quick and have a limited budget. I plan on running 37 inch military tires on 16.5 rims which is what im running on my other sas 1st gen.
Parts needed:
Axle: moved forward ~2-3"
Shocks: monroe 13" travel shocks $45/shock
Set of 7 degree bushings- $55
SS Extended brake lines- $80
12" extended stock RA and custom tcase Crossmember (got a quote from my fab shop for $500)
Coil Spring Buckets $130
F250 Shock Towers- $40
drop pitman arm- $65
Coils- $160 (i want to run the 6.5 from bcbroncos but my buddy with an xj has new 8" rustys coils so i might get those if they will fit in the bronco coil bucket?)
track bar $130 (might get the stock one threaded to be adjustable)
Track bar frame mount $ 35
Steering $150 (i have the 77 power steering pump and steering box)
Tools & parts $150 (grade 8 bolts and nuts)
Gears and master install kits
New brakes (i want to use 78 tbird calipers but i dont think the fittings work with the extended brake lines)
 


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FullBlownModz

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Will xj coils work in the bronco buckets? They are a little small at the end but maybe i could use retainers or cut the smaller part off?
2hrj2o4.jpg
 




johnny499

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i believe i have seen them used in gen 1 or ranger spring buckets.
 




FullBlownModz

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i believe i have seen them used in gen 1 or ranger spring buckets.
Cool ill have to check and see if i can find a pair of buckets or just buy bronco coils
 




FullBlownModz

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Axle pics:
14mdldt.jpg

28rp502.jpg

63w16s.jpg

Is a bigger carrier required for the 9 inch for 5.13 gears if it has 3.50s stock?
 




FullBlownModz

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Finally got into the shop and started to tear down the axles! The 9 inch is going to need new spring perches correct?
 




FullBlownModz

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About to put in the 9 inch but really considering sticking with the 8.8. The 9 inch has the right lug pattern but has drums and needs all new brake lines. The 8.8 has disc brakes but has a different lug pattern even though i have adapters on it right now and would only need 1 extended brake line. They both have 31 spline shafts and the 9 inch is the big bearing model. What do yall think?
 




2TimingTom

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What's the sprng rate on the XJ coils? The XJ coils I have are Rubicon Express 5.5 and are 184 lb/in. In my opinion they are too soft. I have some ZJ coils from Iron Rock Offroad that are going to be about 280 lb/in after I cut 2 coils off. I'm hoping that will be much better. The XJ coils flex great, but I bottom out all the time and on the road they are pretty mushy.
 




FullBlownModz

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What's the sprng rate on the XJ coils? The XJ coils I have are Rubicon Express 5.5 and are 184 lb/in. In my opinion they are too soft. I have some ZJ coils from Iron Rock Offroad that are going to be about 280 lb/in after I cut 2 coils off. I'm hoping that will be much better. The XJ coils flex great, but I bottom out all the time and on the road they are pretty mushy.
The coils are the Rustys 8.5-9 inch coils and have a rate of 180 lb/in. They dont sit well in the bronco coil buckets i have so i would need to cut some coils off. I was actually thinking of just buying the 6.5 inch coils from bcbroncos or the wildhorses rock crawler 5.5 inch coils because they would fit nice in the buckets and i wouldnt have to cut them down. Now with you telling me that they would be too soft, I will probably just tell my buddy that i will pass on them.
 




FullBlownModz

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Update

So i havent really kept yall updated once i moved into the shop. I ended up using the stock bronco buckets and shock towers that were included with the axle i bought. The shock towers have the stud mounting type and i found a pretty good deal on a set of 2 skyjacker 13 inch travel shocks for the front. For the rear, im using some rough country 11 inch travel shocks temporarily because i just had them sitting around. Im not going to be running the xj coils, and i want the wildhorses 5.5 coils but i feel like im going to need another inch or so to level out with the soa and a 3 inch block so im thinking of buying the bcbroncos 6.5 with winch because there will be a winch and bumper put on eventually. Ive decided im going to extend the radius arms about a foot to a custom tcase xmember made out of 1/4 steel. Im using weld in bungs for the ends of the 2" .25 wall dom tubing and running 7/8 hiems that will attach to some tabs on the xmember. The hiems and tabs are from ruffstuff so im not going cheap there. For my trac bar, i ordered 3/4 hiems that i will use on 1.5" .25 wall dom tubing. I have the steering box off of the 77 f150 but it is too beefy and wont fit right inside my frame so ill scoop one from a first gen in the junk yard sometime this week. I havent really figured out the steering yet but i probably just run threaded dom tubing with tie rod ends and use bcbroncos tie rod saddle for going to the pitman arm. I need to figure out what the right fittings are for the brake lines front and rear. I got yukon 5.13 gears for the d44 and the 9 inch and just need a new carrier for the d44. I have new perches and shock mounts for the rear axle. I was about to sell the 8.8 the other day and called it off because i didnt know it had 31 spline axle shafts so now im considering just keeping the 8.8 becuase it would be faster to get going because i still need all new brake lines and a new driveshaft for the 9 inch even though i already got 5.13s for it. Do yall think i should put in the 8.8 or the 9 inch?
 




2TimingTom

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I swapped the springs today. What a pain! Taking the first XJ coil out was easy since the opposite coil compressed easy. Getting the other XJ coil out and the new ZJ coil in was not very easy at all. I had to get creative with ratchet straps to pull the XJ coil out and compress the ZJ coil to get it in.

But initial driving impressions are good. Without the sway bar there is still good flex. Not as good as before but pretty good. With the sway bar on, it no longer seems to wallow after hitting bumps on the road.
 




FR-425

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FullBlownModz

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Well all the old brackets from the front end are off. I also mad the mistake of removing the old perches before i put the new ones on the 8.8 for the soa. The rear is in but now the driveshaft is to one side and my pinion angle is probably off. Any idea why it might be like this?
n47245.jpg
 




FullBlownModz

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Is the driveshaft going to one side meaning the axle isnt centered correctly? I measured the distances from the rear caliper to the leafs on both sides and they are equal. Any ideas?
 




FullBlownModz

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Update

Rear is in! Ill get some pics up later. I put all new timken bearings, rotors, and pads in the front which is currently under the truck. I am in the process of building a crossmember for the transfer case. Also, i picked up some chromoly 2" od .25 wall tubing for extenting the radius arms! I have the arms pretty far down in the tube but how far in should they go?
 




FR-425

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Is the driveshaft going to one side meaning the axle isnt centered correctly? I measured the distances from the rear caliper to the leafs on both sides and they are equal. Any ideas?

Having a side offset is not a problem so long as the two flanges are parallel. (only if single u-joint on each end)

If the lift gets so high that you need a CV then the side offset will need to be corrected.

You'll need to triple check this when you make your cross member so you don't change the factory position of the output flange of the T-case.

Some good info here: http://www.ringpinion.com/Technical...GeneralInfo//Driveline_Angles_&_Vibration.inc
 




FR-425

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Rear is in! Ill get some pics up later. I put all new timken bearings, rotors, and pads in the front which is currently under the truck. I am in the process of building a crossmember for the transfer case. Also, i picked up some chromoly 2" od .25 wall tubing for extenting the radius arms! I have the arms pretty far down in the tube but how far in should they go?

As far as possible I would think. Don't run one continuous weld or it'll warp to #%$$!
 




FullBlownModz

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Having a side offset is not a problem so long as the two flanges are parallel. (only if single u-joint on each end)

If the lift gets so high that you need a CV then the side offset will need to be corrected.

You'll need to triple check this when you make your cross member so you don't change the factory position of the output flange of the T-case.

Some good info here: http://www.ringpinion.com/Technical...GeneralInfo//Driveline_Angles_&_Vibration.inc

The 2 flanges are parallel to each other but i havent burned the perches in yet because i want to see what the angle is when the front is at ride height. Also, im still debating on putting the 9 inch in the rear, and i do have a cv drive shaft for that. How would the offset be corrected for the cv shaft? I know the pinion would be angled toward the transfer case flange. I just finished up the crossmember and it does not change the transfer case angle. I have about 9" of the tubing over the radius arms so far (5" without counting the threaded ends) with 2 half inch holes drilled on each side for plug welding. Sound like its in far enough? Ill upload pics of the arms and crossmember in a bit
 




FullBlownModz

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Made some progress yesterday. Sorry for the sideways pics haha
Built the crossmember!
o0rry8.jpg


Decent welds for my first time ever welding something haha
63rlth.jpg


Arms cut down 5"
9gapw7.jpg


1/2" holes drilled
2wdbs68.jpg


Make sure to heat up the cast!
n62nt4.jpg


Welded up
291p7hw.jpg


New rotors
10ibf9w.jpg


Spaced out coil buckets 1.5"
ng281s.jpg


37/13.50 boggers waitin to go on
24oc64p.jpg
 


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