Gangster Lean (Sway Bar, Leaf Springs or Torsion Rods first?) [PICS] | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Gangster Lean (Sway Bar, Leaf Springs or Torsion Rods first?) [PICS]

BrettW

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Joined
January 7, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Chicago, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Mountaineer 5.0
Howdy All!

I have the dreaded Gangster Lean on my 2000 AWD Mountaineer (125k miles). It's leaning 7/8" lower on the drivers side front, an:usd 3/4" lower on the drivers side rear. The tires were toast and it was pulling to the right, so I replaced all four tires and it drives more or less perfectly straight now. The front sway bar end-links are broken on both sides, and I bought the good blue poly end-link kit from Napa #265-1312 ($31.99), and new 34mm blue poly bushings #265-2542 ($16.99). The rear leaf springs don't look broken at all, and the truck leans just as bad with the gas tank empty or full.

My first question is, should I even bother hooking the sway bar back up before I correct the lean? I would guess the bushings will premeturely wear out if I do that, and make fixing the lean that much more difficult to fine tune.

Second question is has anyone come up with a way to determine if the cause of the lean is the leaf springs primarily verses the torsion rods? I was thinking if I put the front up on jack stands the back sag should still be noticeable if it's the leaf springs, and vice versa if I jack-stand the back the front could still do whatever it wants to do naturally. Then I could get a feeling for how much each set of components is contributing to the overall lean.

The reason I would go this far with it, is because if it's the leaf springs sagging I'll just put new ones on, but if it's not I could just adjust the torsion rods and save some money and time. However, if it is the leaf springs I don't want to overcompensate for the lean by cranking the torsion rods to their limits and wind up with a stiff front end.

FWIW, I've already been pre-soaking the adjustment bolts for the torsion rods. :thumbsup:


Advice?

I have the appropriate threads favorited for easy reference later:
Sway Bar
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195135
Leaf Spring
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212985
If there are some I'm missing please let me know, thanks!

PICTURES!

backcb.jpg

driverq.jpg

frontgmo.jpg

passuqh.jpg

swaydriver.jpg

swaypass.jpg
 



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Put the sway bar back in operation, it will help distribute the load a little.
Set the front ride height.

If you've still got a lean in the rear, replace the leaf springs.
 






No amount of twisting the torsion bar is going to cure the lean. You need to either put new springs on or put in add-a-leafs. What causes the lean is the gas tank is on the driver side. Over time the left rear spring becomes week because of the fuel weight.
 






Put the sway bar back in operation, it will help distribute the load a little.
Set the front ride height.

If you've still got a lean in the rear, replace the leaf springs.

Something else I've noticed is that the front seems raised a bit more than the back... maybe someone previously lifted it with the torsion bar and left it that way. Are all of the fender walls supposed to be level in the end?

No amount of twisting the torsion bar is going to cure the lean. You need to either put new springs on or put in add-a-leafs. What causes the lean is the gas tank is on the driver side. Over time the left rear spring becomes week because of the fuel weight.

I've read this over and over but also have read several posts that people replace the leafs and there is still a lean, which is why I was thinking to test for it. Not possible to test for it?

Thanks for the replies!
 






I added pictures ;-)

I know this topic is probably beaten to death, but does anyone have any input on testing for sag in back vs. front?
 






Something else I've noticed is that the front seems raised a bit more than the back... maybe someone previously lifted it with the torsion bar and left it that way. Are all of the fender walls supposed to be level in the end?

These trucks from factory rode with a slight rake to allow them to be level with loaded with passengers and fuel. However they almost all (if they have factory leafs still) end up sitting with the rear lower than the front.

In my opinion if you have the cash, replace the leaf springs or find a shop to rearch them (my shop around here will do it for $85). That way it'll sit level with passengers and I think it just looks plain cooler :).

Sorry, no answer for determining whether it's a front or back problem. I suggest if you go for rearching just have the shop add a little extra to the driver side and go from there.
 






Replace all sway bar frame bushings, front and rear. Fix the swaybar endlinks, and adjust the front ride height.

If you raise the front left corner, the right rear corner will come down.
 






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