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gas mileage

stevebazor

Member
Joined
January 7, 2002
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
City, State
Mobile, Alabama
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 XLT
During the Labor Day weekend I pulled a camper with my '93 4-door Explorer. It stuggled the entire trip which lasted about 5 hours and got really bad gas mileage. I probably got about 160 miles on the first tank of gas, all highway. Before that trip I could count on at least 300 miles per tank, and up 320. Since that trip, though, I get around 200 miles per tank.

Any suggestions? The only thing I've done so far is disconnect the battery to let the computer reset. This was the advice from the local dealer.
 



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Never got a response from this, so I replied just to re-post.
 






How heavy was the trailer and was the tongue weight excessive?
 






Not sure about either question. The camper is actually not that heavy. It's a 12' Coleman pop-up. After rocking it to and fro, I can move it by myself just about anywhere. That's how I move it into position when we get to the campsite.
 






When is the last time you had a tune-up?Getting any check engine lights?Running rough at all?
 






Steve, remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). It should be dry. If it is damp from fuel, replace the FPR.

When the FPR's diaphragm gets ruptured, fuel is sucked into the intake manifold and the mpg drops.....
 






>>Running rough at all?

Sure, but it always has a little. Seems to be off timing a little. I'd love to break the whole engine down and give it a rebuild. Don't have the time or the money.

Thanks for the advise on the FPR. I'll check it first thing tonight and let you know if it works. Of course, it'll take a few days watching the fuel gauge.
 






I to have had mileage problems with my '91 explorer, and recently changed the gas cap. I was quite surprised to see that I was getting an additional 50 - 100 kilometers to the tank.

Upon inspecting the old gas cap, the rubber seal was rock hard. The new seal is soft and flexible.

Considering how cheap the gas cap is, it might be worthwile to have a look.

James
 






Checked the FPR and replaced it, but I haven't noticed any difference in fuel efficiency. What now?

Last night, I had it on the Interstate cruising at about 70 MPH. At one point going uphill, I hit the accelerate button on the cruise control to get it up to 75 and it wouldn't do anything. I expected it to downshift and accelerate, but it stayed in overdrive and no additional speed. It's almost like it's still pulling the camper.

I still appreciate any advice, but if anyone mentions that thing between the engine and driveshaft I will hunt you down and force you to drive this POS.
 






Change spark plugs and wires, clean MAF sensor, change fuel filter and air filter.

Sorry, gotta mention tranny. :D It might not need replaced. When was the last time it had a fluid and filter change? It can't hurt.
 






Didn't want to say the T-word did you? Thanks for the advice.

I have thought about the plug wires, but the plugs are year-old Bosch platinum 4s. Did the MAF thing, the PCV valve, and air cleaner about a month ago. Did the fuel filter about a year ago.

Something happened on this trip that skewed the system. I have a feeling that it's gonna cost me.
 






Pull the plugs and inspect, lots of folks here have trouble with Bosch. If any are damaged, replaced with Motorcraft.
 






I pulled a couple of the easier plugs to get to and inspected. As I suspected, they're fine.

Keep in mind. This problem didn't slowly creep up over a long period of time. Over one weekend after pulling a camper 180 miles from home, my gas mileage went from 300+ miles per tank to 200 miles per tank.
 






OK, fine. I'll say it. Could something have gone wrong with the transmission? I've read some other posts on towing, overdrive, etc. They mention the torque convertor locking and unlocking at certain times. Any comments?
 






What is the tach reading going 60

or what ever speed you like to cruise at. Overdrive kicks it down about 700 and lockup converter about 300. Transmission should be about 2100 at 65 mph.
 






Have you gotten any check engine lights (CEL)? Your truck is behaving like the O2 sensors are worn out; generally this fires a CEL but in my experience with Ford OBD-I rigs not always. Often you will get less power, mileage, and rough running with a bad O2 sensor. With everyone talking about the dreaded T-word, I thought I would mention the O2s since I don't think they were mentioned.
 






It almost sounds like you have a vacuum leak, you might try checking that.
 






I would go to your nearest autozone and have them use their scanner if they have one to monitor your O2 sensor. they also have loaner vacuum gauges, although I don't think its vacuum. I would look at the O2. you can test it with a multimeter as well but a scanner is easier and less risky than your multimeter.

or if no desire to check it you can just replace the O2 sensor. I am not certain if there are 2 on 93s or just 1, I know my 91 just has 1. but they are 50.99 there for a bosch OEM replacement. it does say 2 required so you will be out 100 bucks. if even just 1 is bad it will make your mileage poor. but then again it says 2 required for my 91 and it only has 1. so look under there

if you are good with a DMM here is the digital multimeter test procedure from autozone:

WARNING
An oxygen sensor must be tested with a digital voltmeter. If an analog meter is used for this purpose, the sensor may be damaged.

Testing With A Digital Mulitmeter
Connect the voltmeter between the O2 sensor wire and ground.
Backprobe the connector near the O2 sensor to connect the voltmeter to the sensor signal wire. If possible, avoid probing through the insulation to connect a meter to the wire.
With the engine idling, the sensor voltage should be cycling from low voltage to high voltage. The signal from most O2 sensors varies between 0 and 1 volt.
If the voltage is continually high, the air/fuel ratio may be rich or the sensor may be contaminated by RTV sealant, antifreeze, or lead from leaded gasoline.
When the O2 sensor voltage is continually low, the air/fuel ratio may be lean, the sensor may be defective, or the wire between the sensor and the computer may have a high-resistance problem.
If the O2 sensor voltage signal remains in a mid-range position, the computer may be in open loop or the sensor may be defective.
The sensor can also be tested after it is removed from the exhaust manifold.
Connect the voltmeter between the sensor wire and the case of the sensor.
Using a propane torch, heat the sensor element. The propane flame keeps the oxygen in the air away from the sensor element, causing the sensor to produce voltage.
While the sensor element is in the flame, the voltage should be nearly 1 volt.
The voltage should drop to zero immediately when the flame is removed from the sensor.
If the sensor does not produce the specified voltage or if the sensor does not quickly respond to the change, it should be replaced.
If a defect in the O2 sensor signal wire is suspected, backprobe the sensor signal wire at the computer and connect a digital voltmeter from the signal wire to ground with the engine idling.
The difference between the voltage readings at the sensor and at the computer should not exceed the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. A typical specification for voltage drop across the average sensor wire is 0.02 volt.
Now check the sensor's ground.
With the engine idling, connect the voltmeter from the sensor case to the sensor ground wire on the computer. Typically, the maximum allowable voltage drop across the sensor ground circuit is 0.02 volt.
Always use the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. If the voltage drop across the sensor ground exceeds specifications, repair the ground wire or the sensor ground in the exhaust manifold.
Most late-model engines are fitted with heated O2 sensors.
If the O2 sensor heater is not working, the sensor warm-up time is extended and the computer stays in open loop longer. In this mode, the computer supplies a richer air/fuel ratio. As a result, the engine's emissions are high and its fuel economy is reduced.
To test the heater circuit, disconnect the O2 sensor connector and connect a voltmeter between the heater voltage supply wire and ground.
With the ignition switch on, 12 volts should be supplied on this wire. If the voltage is less than 12 volts, repair the fuse in this voltage supply wire or the wire itself.
With the O2 sensor wire disconnected, connect an ohmmeter across the heater terminals in the sensor connector.
If the heater does not have the specified resistance, replace the sensor.

good luck and let us know
 






This is just great. After typing in a good reply, I hit the submit button and nothing happens. I hit the refresh button and my entire reply gets wiped away. Let me see if I can recapture everything.

1. I replaced both O2's in March '03.
2. I did get a CEL before replacing them but not afterwards until that trip over Labor Day weekend. The CEL would come on during trips on the highway, but as soon as I let off the gas to exit, the CEL would go away.
3. When should the t-convertor lock and unlock? I'll check my tach reading against speed & gears tonight on the way home.
4. On the subject of transmissions, is it true that if the fluid and filter have not be changed/serviced after so many miles that it is better to leave the old fluid in because detergent in the new fluid would "eat" the seals inside? I ask because I haven't serviced my transmission in about 70k miles (mostly highway) with the exception of adding some fluid from time to time.

Again, thanks for all the help.
 



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Originally posted by stevebazor
2. I did get a CEL before replacing them but not afterwards until that trip over Labor Day weekend. The CEL would come on during trips on the highway, but as soon as I let off the gas to exit, the CEL would go away.

Did you ever pull the code for this CEL?
I wonder what the code was..
 






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