getting desperate!

[b_train_98]

I can ussually find the info I need on this site, not this time or didn't look hard enough. My 93 explorer won't start. I get one click with dash lights and that's it! I can here a relay or two as well, no cranking. I replaced starter solinoid no change. I replaced fender relay, no change. Jumped fender relay (old one) and I did here something from the starter, didn't start. The battery was dead at 10+v and after charging it's 12+v (still charging) won't start at 11.8v. I have started it with a low battery before, maybe 10.5-11v. When I replaced the starter solinoid, the hook that the plunger goes into on the starter moved freely (I'm hoping that means the starter is fine). I really don't know what else to do. Anyone have some ideas for me? I would appreciate the help.

 

[JDraper]

Corrosion in the battery cables. It's a common issue in the older Explorers. The cables will look good on the outside but be heavily corroded on the inside. The way to check is disconnect the cable at one end and use a multimeter to check the resistance. If it's more than a couple ohms, you've found the problem.

 

[b_train_98]

forgot

Sorry, forgot to mention this; my code scanner gave me 114 (air charge temp sensor high or lower than expected volts), 116 (coolant temp high or lower than expected), 512 (keep alive memory test failure KAM). I'm sure that was with a low battery. Haven't done that after charging yet.

 

[Masterd]

Those codes dont explain the click.

Check battery cables, they corrode on the inside.

 

[b_train_98]

Cables

That's right I remember reading that before when I had starting issue's (starter solonoid that time, work for 10 months since). I check cable again. I'm cold so I did a quick test on it. Disconnected posotive cable from battery, one lead on that end and reached for the other end. When the meter settles it's less than 1ohm. I did a proper test on it in the summer when I replaced the solonoid, don't remember numbers, it was fine. What else do you suggest?

 

[MrShorty]

KOEO 114 and 116 are almost certainly because it won't start. The PCM expects the temperature sensors to be above a certain temperature during the KOEO test. When you can't start the engine, those sensors don't warm up. Ignore them until you get it to start.

How good are the battery post clamps grabbing? I know the factory style clamps on my cables got stretched or something and wouldn't grip the battery post tightly enough. Sometimes the bolts get so corroded I can't tighten them down. Your symptoms really sound like something is not right between the battery post and the starter.

 

[Dannyboy]

I just had an issue like this. One call to R.J. and he pointed me into the direction that his truck did the same thing. It was the connection of the wires to the terminals. I had the terminals tight on the battery posts, but the 2 bolts on top were not tight enough and i couldn't get the juice needed.

Most often a truck this old will have had the terminals replaced with the ones that hold the wire with 2 bolts on the top. Easy place to at least check for a problem.

 

[b_train_98]

son of a birch!

I was down for three days, no vehicle. Just finished cleaning all cables and connectors then mechanic buddy stopped by today, tested a few things, charged the battery again.... It was the freaking battery!!! Three days because of a battery!!! It must have a few dead cells, his charger was all over the scale. That's the last thing I would have thought of. Son of a birch. He'll get some new wire and fix up those cables just in case. Thanks for the quick replys guys, appreciate it.

 

[JTX]

Ya i was gonna tell you a battery can show 12 volts and still be dead. I had this problem a few years ago, the battery just didnt have enough amps to turn it over.

 

[Burns]

At least you figured it out and then posted back to let eveyone know what was going on.


Well we all learn by doing. I talk this as lesson learned.

 

[b_train_98]

Lesson learned!

My buddy was happy that I had the basics covered when he showed up, I even filed some parts to have fresh metal on the cables. It was a piss off for sure, at least I learned something and will know for next time. I'll probably do the KOEO test's just to make sure. I have another question that I haven't found the answer to by searching, I'll start a new thread for that. Thanks again guys.

 

[v1rotv2]

In years pasted....

I would test my batteries and showed a good twelve volts, but put any type of load on them and down to zero they would go. For future reference any part store can do the load check and they usually do it for free.