Getting the most out of what I have

[Fix4Dirt]

now that winter is in full swing, starting to work on this a bit! got the LEDs installed in the instrument panel, feels like i'm driving a spaceship now. installing new brakes within the next week or two, probably going to do it with my dad the weekend before Christmas i'm just glad i can see how fast I'm going at night now, but switching these for LEDs make me want to swap out the dome lights for LEDs

View attachment 448096

dome LED is nice for sure. it really makes the cabin feel alot brighter at night when loading cargo in

 

[toobladink]

so i found out what was causing the "death wobble" under braking.

replacing the brakes has been the first real thing i've done myself and i learned a lot. first, i didn't really understand how the torque wrench worked (i did, but i overtightened the banjo bolt, or whatever the bolt is called that secures the brake line, and when i went to torque it, it immediately clicked and i thought "that's weird" so.. i kept going til i snapped it off.) one trip to the store later and we were back in business.

anyways. the powerstop brake kit was on sale on summitracing, the kit with the red calipers was on sale and not much more expensive than just the pads and rotors, so i spent a little extra for them. did i have to? no. did i need to? no. but i really, really wanted to. i hear colored brake calipers add at least 50hp and increase girth by 20%. i haven't done anything yet where i'll be noticing a difference with these brakes, but i'm sure when i come down from the ski mountain i won't notice the brake smell. i will say, i was hoping it would make my pedal a little more sensitive. i might be looking at that some time in the future. shocks and a little lift are next! probably some time next month.

but nice difference here. didn't think to take pics of the brakes from the same side.. lol.

 

[Turdle]

That looks much faster.

 

[DintDobbs]

@toobladink Nice going! I'm due for brakes on my Sport next year (or this year, if they don't pass inspection) and came across the Powerstop kit a few years back when planning for just this occasion. If you don't mind, I (and countless others, I'm sure) would appreciate any and all commentary on how it performs. Particularly interested in how much of a difference the drilled and slotted rotors make - I drive in, around, through, across, under, and beside water frequently; overheating doesn't concern me, but water displacement does. Seems that should benefit both.

 

[410Fortune]

The power stop brakes work fantastic I have installed them quite a few times
I like slotted rotors, but a huge fan of the drilled because they can add weak spots but I do like the slots because they shed water

I also live in a very wet area and we are in the water often so I am always greasing up zerks

The power stop calipers pads and rotors have been top notch for especially for the money. The powder coat on the calipers is very very good

 

[toobladink]

I will say they do feel nice, i think if the pedal was adjusted to be a little more sensitive like a modern car it would feel fantastic. however, i havent measured anything so like maybe i'm really only able to stop a little quicker, or the improvement is just placebo, or maybe from the fact that i just had worn brakes to begin with. i have never towed (despite having the towing package...) so can't reasonably compare that either.

 

[toobladink]

Tires you can fit a 32 on stock suspension no problem trust me we've done it. Just make sure you maintain your vehicle and it should last a long time.

What tire size specifically was this? Thinking about replacing my tires from 255/70R16 to 265/75R16 - which is about 31.6x10.4. I imagine I might have to adjust the torsion bar just a little bit to prevent rubbing when the suspension tops out. I know the 265/70R16 will fit (because I've seen lots of posts) but unsure about 265/75R16 because of the added height, I was under the impression that width typically limits you first. I see 31x10.5 was a huge thing back in the day since they fit without any lift, and I wonder if that half inch will require anything in terms of adjustment.

Also on that Powerstop brake comparison, I can't really compare those to stock at all now. I only did the fronts initially, but finally had time last weekend to install the rears and I don't think the rear passenger side was working at all. The entire rotor had rust on it, including the area where the pad would be making contact. Replacing that brake has made a huge difference in my stopping power and braking is way less scary. I have no clue how long it's been like that, I'm under the impression that maybe that caliper went out, but I didn't see anything off. I'll make sure to take and upload a pic before I take them to the recycling center.

 

[Flashflood]

What tire size specifically was this? Thinking about replacing my tires from 255/70R16 to 265/75R16 - which is about 31.6x10.4. I imagine I might have to adjust the torsion bar just a little bit to prevent rubbing when the suspension tops out. I know the 265/70R16 will fit (because I've seen lots of posts) but unsure about 265/75R16 because of the added height, I was under the impression that width typically limits you first. I see 31x10.5 was a huge thing back in the day since they fit without any lift, and I wonder if that half inch will require anything in terms of adjustment.

Also on that Powerstop brake comparison, I can't really compare those to stock at all now. I only did the fronts initially, but finally had time last weekend to install the rears and I don't think the rear passenger side was working at all. The entire rotor had rust on it, including the area where the pad would be making contact. Replacing that brake has made a huge difference in my stopping power and braking is way less scary. I have no clue how long it's been like that, I'm under the impression that maybe that caliper went out, but I didn't see anything off. I'll make sure to take and upload a pic before I take them to the recycling center.

They where 32x10.50r15 all my dad project aviator had to is the torsion twist and rear shackles. Also just trim a little bit of crash bar but it drove just fine. I'm sure if you do the same your tire would fit.

 

[410Fortune]

265 came stock on some later trucks 00-04 they will fit basically a 31”

 

[toobladink]

265 came stock on some later trucks 00-04 they will fit basically a 31”

oh interesting. i know the 265/70 will fit but curious if added height of 265/75 will also still fit without a big adjustment. i plan on replacing leaf springs and maybe add a leaf and then adjusting torsion bar accordingly, but that's lower on my list right now, which leads me to this next thing...

I installed a K&N intake and it was working pretty good, noticeable difference when i hammer the throttle (mostly sound though). However, my check engine light came on after about 20 miles and after checking for leaks, i'm pretty sure the extra air flow and the change of position for one of the hoses was just enough for the light to come on. I will have to check what code it's throwing just to verify my assumption but I plan on doing some other stuff that might do the same thing, notably the exhaust. **edit: I unplugged the battery, drove about 25 miles and it didn't come back on.

Anyways, I've seen some threads with similar issues and the most of the replies are "remove it and go back to stock airbox" or "why did you do that" and i'm here to tell you i am not doing that; i'm here to learn and burn money. With that said, assuming my assumption is correct, wouldn't I just be able to get it tuned to prevent the check engine light from coming on? I'd probably do some other stuff to make spending the money on a tune even more worth it, I'm curious what you guys think (especially because i don't have a clue what that involves, like does that require a new ECU?) I know I will definitely be doing the exhaust in a few weeks so might just wait til then before I explore tuning options. Is there anything else I can do similar to the intake, in terms of ease of installation that will help my performance? I know it's common to replace headers or like the intake manifold but I isn't that for when you get crazy and supercharge it?

 

[Blown]

I don't think there is a better intake manifold out there???

What you did was reset the fuel trims when you unhooked the battery. The computer then relearns with the new component installed and did not set a code. You should do the same when you do any performance work. The computer/EEV in these does a good job of compensating for performance improvements until you get into more intense power adders or a combo of adders, like cam(s), larger injectors, heads, headers, and exhaust.

I like K&N Filters and piping. An open filter is louder and it likely does flow a bit better as witnessed by the EEC trouble code. What you also have now is an air filter sucking hot air in from the engine bay. The small performance gain will be offset by an increase in intake temps during summer. Kenne Bell will not warrantee a supercharger that has an exposed underhood air filter. For performance you need the coolest air charge you can get.

 

[410Fortune]

So if I run an open filter under the hood there are some rules:

Keep it away from turbulent air created by the fan. This is a small rule but a good rule none the less

Keep it away from exhaust and engine heat. Behind the headlight is about the best location you will find for this (same as stock airbox)

Run a dry filter (not oiled like k&n. Now I can run a k&n no problem because I know how to clean, dry and re oil them properly without soaking the cotton with way too much oil. However now they have developed dry elements no oil, that filter better than the k n
I run injen, amsoil, Donaldson or better
Most
K&n get waaaaaay over oiled and that causes issues with mas and throttle
Body blade

Feed it cold air
This means making a heat shield on the engine and exhaust side (which also protects it from water and mudd)
And it means plumbing in some cold air from behind the grill or fender hood or cowl or snorkel or next to the headlight, larger the feed the better.

If you live in wet conditions or super dusty consider a pre filter to keep water off your element

Starting to sound a lot like a factory airbox isn’t it? Lol
Many of us have gone back to factory airboxes.
I port them with more fresh air intake and I run a good dry breathable filter like injen. or even better build the largest Box you can around your new larger element. S&b airboxes are the best, but they are $$$$ and they don’t make them for our make and model. There are some diy airbox kits out there too

You have done well by adding a larger element and getting a large intake tube with no baffles or ripples in it. Now you need to keep the heat off and feed it cold air

I think it’s Afe that has a whole new line of air filters now In various materials and construction depending on your needs, they have them at 4wheelparts

 

[toobladink]

Okay it's been a month and I've come to the great minds to inquire.. I love the help I've been getting here but this one is bothering me. It's been super snowy/cold so I haven't been driving as much. Probably 50 miles in the last month? Well, took the interstate to get to a store and my check engine light came on after I floored it since it's the shortest on-ramp of all time. Don't have a code reader so I went to the trusty auto part store to get the code read and I got a P0171 and P0174 - which means engine banks 1 and 2 are running too lean (too much air). I wasn't expecting the K&N intake kit to give me that much improvement, but seems like I got more than I bargained for considering it now has issues.

Checked to see if maybe I didn't tighten a hose clamp enough and maybe it was leaking and sucking in air, but as far as my novice mechanic brain can tell, it seems fine. Even cleaned the MAF and it made no difference.. Now, the one thing I will say is that when it came on the first time, it was almost 0 F outside, so maybe the colder air made the difference in having the check engine light come on compared to what the weather is like now, but maybe I'm just trying to find an excuse here lol. Was a similar temp when I cleaned the MAF and checked for leaks but I really don't think that matters.

I've been reading around a bit and it seems I have two realistic options but I'm curious what you guys think.

1. Buy a new MAF that is adjusted (or "tuned") out of the box to make it run richer. This seems like I could potentially dig myself into a hole here and just end up going with option 2 anyways (if this doesn't work), so I guess technically there are 3 options if I do both here? The benefit I see is I can get a "performance" MAF that has a bigger inner diameter but still has the same outer diameter - and that's about it. Haven't found anything that's compatible other than the jet powr-flo ones and those look like you need a tune anyways to get them to work.
2. Get it tuned by a professional/buy a tuner and figure it out myself. This seems like a good idea in general, seems like potentially other benefits other than not having it run lean.

Technically i do have the option to go back to the stock intake, but I’m not here for it. I want to learn and as the thread states, makes the most of what I have. Anyways I like the sound and the difference in HP is noticeable. (I’m actually after the 30 day return window now soooo I really would rather make this work)

I do have one other airflow upgrade planned, but it's just a slightly less restrictive muffler and moving from 2.25 to 2.5 inch exhaust pipe. I'm leaning towards doing option 2 after I get the exhaust work finished. What do you guys think? If it matters it would be stock cats. I was thinking JBA headers for a while, but that seemed above my skill level and looked too expensive for what they do, so yeah just a good ol’ catback

 

[410Fortune]

171 and 174 both banks lean
This means the computer has seen a lean condition and tried to compensate by dumping more fuel, it was unable to correct the conditions and you get the codes

Usually on a 4.0 ohv this is intake gasket o rings or large leak at egr o ring

Look for soot around the base of your intake plenum

You clear the code and it comes back

I’m the air filter you choose or heck even having no air filter should not cause these codes
It is non metered air entering the system after the mas and before the 02 sensors on both banks

Or

Can also be weak fuel pressure,
Meaning you are actually running lean it is not an air leak

Check intake very carefully no leaks allowed in intake tube or at throttle body or anywhere else

9 times out of 10 these codes are solved with new intake o rings the other 1 time I will find air leaks at egr lower intake exhaust manifolds or a combo of all of these and or weak fuel pressure

 

[toobladink]

How do you check for leaks? I was using some spray start and was just listening, is there a more reliable way to do that? I think it's likely I missed a spot to check. I didn't check anything other than what I touched with the intake (so the two hoses that connect, throttle body, all the connections) but maybe it's just a big coincidence. I wouldn't be surprised if maybe it was on its last legs and flooring it a few times after the install has just aggravated it?

If it does happen to be the intake gasket o rings, what's the best way to know for sure? How hard is it to replace these on the SOHC?

Also, I had to look at the report they gave me and the guy put in OHV so if they don't share codes for similar issues, I think I may need to go back to the store again. P0174 was stored and not active, if that matters.

 

[410Fortune]

171 174 are same sohc and ohv
The o rings are pretty simple for me
I can do ohv in hour sohc in two complete
Job upper and lower plenum gaskets in the 97-01 sohc and
Consider replacing injector o rings and seats on sohc. You can also bench test the injectors

Ohv has o rings where plastic meets metal
Injectors have o rings but no seats
Ohv also has large green egr o ring when you remove plenum

Best way to test is with a smoke test
I have never had luck with the starting fluid method on these trucks, but with a flashlight I can spot the oily spot where air is being sucked in along w dust dirt etc

Any ohv or sohc with any sort of miles or time on them need these gaskets replaced. The ethenol on our fuel seems to help dry out the oem gaskets
Parts are cheap

Sohc engines you will need some special tools I use a flex drive w torx bit to access rear lower plenum screws

 

[DintDobbs]

@toobladink I had both of those codes (P0171 and P0174) occur on a few occasions on my '99 SOHC. The first time, both codes appeared during the cold part of winter (around 15 F, here) and stayed once it warmed up, so I replaced the O2 sensor. In my case, I could easily identify that the O2 sensor was malfunctioning because it was idling rough, consuming excess fuel, and lugging on acceleration - all symptoms of flooding, which means that it was injecting excess fuel due to a faulty sensor detecting a nonexistent lean condition. Not sure if the cold weather affected it or not. Replaced the O2 sensor, and the codes did not return.

The next year when it got cold, both of those codes came back, but went away once the weather warmed up.

Incidentally, I also had recently installed a K&N air intake (entire assembly) before the codes first appeared. It may be a good idea to disconnect the battery to clear the PCM patterns when changing the intake, because the PCM "learns" to control the engine over the first couple of drive cycles after reset. If it learns to operate the engine with the original intake and then you install a different one, it will be getting a lot more air than it has come to expect, which can in turn affect how it responds. While theoretically, this difference shouldn't be enough to trigger the CEL, it isn't impossible that resetting the PCM will make it learn how to work with the new intake.

Observe the symptoms of the problem; if it's actually running lean, the temperature should run higher then normal. If it's showing symptoms of running rich, replace the O2 sensor (it was like $20 a few years ago), clear the codes, and see what happens.

And listen to @410Fortune, he knows what he's talking about!

 

[410Fortune]

Good advice! We all know things that are heated wear out
Heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor
Plus our trucks are old now good to ditch lazy sensors and perform a re learn after upgrades …very solid advice!

 

[toobladink]

I think I may have fixed it! Drove it for about a half hour and light didn't come on, which was longer than the last time the light came on. (update: still hasn't come on after a few more days of driving and gas mileage seems improved so definitely seems fixed) It was just bothering me that I couldn't find a leak last time so I tried the same method before, spraying every connection with starter fluid and this time it worked. However, the difference this time was I just drove home. Last time it was on a cold start. I think that was actually the part that mattered! I'll explain why I think that in a second...

I recall when installing the intake kit that the hose that sits on the right was a pretty tight fit.

So when I sprayed the connections of the hose, I pulled it off with the intent to check for a tear or something, but it was so loose! It was a little hot, maybe shouldn't have done that - but it makes sense since stuff expands when heated. It was loose enough that I'm 90% sure that this was the issue, I don't think I've driven enough to determine that yet though. However, I cannot overstate how loose it was when the engine was warmed up. What doesn't make sense to me was why it was fine for a bit (50 miles), and then suddenly became more loose. Maybe the material stretched? I noticed when the hose was warm it was significantly more flexible.

The (potential) fix? Just a little hose clamp. You can tell I sprayed where the hose connects quite a bit because I just couldn't believe I thought i found the issue lol.

So I have some questions now, what does this hose connect to? Does my thinking make sense? I guess I just want an explanation for peace of mind. Does anyone know how long/how lean it has to run before the check engine comes on? I feel like this may be a super heavy math question.
And lastly, I noticed the other intake hose is connected SIDEWAYS and is somehow NOT leaking. The way it sits in there just really bothers me. Looks like it's fine considering all the dirt/wear looks very even but I figured I'd share.

 

[toobladink]

I've officially started entering "the point of no return" here... The rear end has been sagging and has gotten worse over the past year or two, so I bought new leaf springs. Also got Warrior 153 shackles. Of course, found some jackstands on sale to make this possible! Plan to throw this all in this weekend and also replace the rear shocks with Rancho RS5000s (I also got fronts, just depends how fast I go). I'm hoping to restore stock ride hide + 2 inches of lift (at most)! I'll make some measurements before/after the install. All of this to eventually put a nice brand new BFG KO3 when they come out in the size I want later this year (pending good tire reviews and appropriate load ratings, of course).

Of course I'll have to adjust the torsion bar to level it and then do an alignment

Any tips for the leaf spring, shackle, or shocks install? Doesn't seem like it'll be that bad. Was also thinking about going to pick up a ramp for the front tires to sit on so the frame doesn't sit at an angle on the stands. Is that going to be a necessity?