Ghetto Engineering Caliper Guide Pin Bolts

[Vininfinite]

Hello with a 95 explorer here. During a brake job I had the misfortune of losing both of my front right caliper guide pin bolts. After an extensive search I decided to just order a new set of bolts and guide pins, but it will take 3-4 days for it to arrive. To clarify I am NOT talking about the caliper bracket bolts that bear the force of breaking. The guide pin bolts seem to be non-load bearing and are simply there to make sure the caliper can move side to side and won't fall out. I have two bolts of the same thread, but longer.

Using a few washers would it be safe to ghetto engineer the repair until the parts arrive?
I need the vehicle for work. Educated opinions would be helpful.

(2003 Explorer in picture / very similar to 1995)

 

[ponkotsu]

The bracket takes the braking load. The guide pins hold the caliper in position. It does take a significant amount of vibration, which is probably the reason for the high strength hardware. And they guide pin will take some radial load, especially the rear one. I'd be very careful about using cheap hardware. If you use a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store you should be fine. I'd prefer to chop the end off of it than put washers under it though.

 

[ponkotsu]

BTW, I bought those at Advanceauto. They are way over priced, but worth the peace of mind. You can probably get at least 20% off from here: www.ebates.com

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...68361-p?searchTerm=caliper+guide+pin-bolt+kit

$16.29 each set. Use coupon code A124 and you can get $10 off. About $22 for both sets.

 

[Vininfinite]

Thank you for the input. I will get my hacksaw and cut them down to size. Driving will be kept to a bare minimum and bolt checks performed periodically.

 

[ponkotsu]

Thank you for the input. I will get my hacksaw and cut them down to size. Driving will be kept to a bare minimum and bolt checks performed periodically.

If you can cut them with a hacksaw, they are too soft for that application.

 

[SoNic67]

They will lock your wheels at first brake and stay like that. Pads are pushed "back" only with piston rubber seal elasticity. You don't want any increase in friction on guides.

 

[Vininfinite]

If you can cut them with a hacksaw, they are too soft for that application.

On inspection I found that they were grade 5 bolts. Good to know though. Thank you for the feedback. I believe I've got it under control.