hey i got my 96 explorer to fit 33s with no trimming what so ever. the only lift so far is TT & shackles which is about 2 1/2 inch of lift if u wanna see pics for proof let me know, o yea there also on my stock rims.
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got 33s to fit with TT&Shakles
- Thread starter joehernandez86
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Tell me about it, I almost had a tire fly off on the fwy due to cooked bearings that had gotten washed out the week before. However, this was just because it was the first time I didn't check them after a water crossing. Shows you that maintenance is key! If I would have taken off the dust seals and lightly greased the outside of the bearings and resealed them, it shouldn't have been a problem. I wouldn'tve even needed to lift the truck or take off the tire!
Though I know 2wd and 4wd front hubs are different.
Though I know 2wd and 4wd front hubs are different.
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sk1er17
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Ive only had to replace one hub assembly and that was around 110K miles. I havent had any problems with it and ive had them submerges in a lot of different crap. I always hose everything of really really good when i get home though and spray wd40 everywhere.
IZwack
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my $0.02:
Will hosing bearings be enough? Because the important thing IMO is not to get water inside the bearings themselves. As most of your probably know, water penetrating the bearing is what "lifts" the grease "up" from the inner metal surfaces (mostly at higher bearing rpms when the water gains enough momentum as it's thrashed around between the bearing race/balls).
Alec's idea of lightly coating the outside of the bearing grease would help a bit cauz that would help to keep the water from seeping through the small gaps on the outside. (the right grease viscosity I guess is the key here.. "thick" enough to not be washed away by water and "thin" enough to quickly re-seal any gaps caused by rotation)
Is there's another method to keep the water out that lasts longer than every or every other water run? (bearing assembly cost and all this is just another nudge towards the SAS tent... but that's also expensive.. ERRRR)
Will hosing bearings be enough? Because the important thing IMO is not to get water inside the bearings themselves. As most of your probably know, water penetrating the bearing is what "lifts" the grease "up" from the inner metal surfaces (mostly at higher bearing rpms when the water gains enough momentum as it's thrashed around between the bearing race/balls).
Alec's idea of lightly coating the outside of the bearing grease would help a bit cauz that would help to keep the water from seeping through the small gaps on the outside. (the right grease viscosity I guess is the key here.. "thick" enough to not be washed away by water and "thin" enough to quickly re-seal any gaps caused by rotation)
Is there's another method to keep the water out that lasts longer than every or every other water run? (bearing assembly cost and all this is just another nudge towards the SAS tent... but that's also expensive.. ERRRR)
sk1er17
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btw: its easy to replace the assembly if it goes rather than paying someone... spindal nut then 4 bolts.. done in 25 minutes with a floor jack and breaker bar..
IZwack
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sk1er17:
You have a good point about how quick and easy it is to replace the bearing assembly. Also I forgot the fact that you said you spray wd40 everywhere so that's probably enough to fill any hairline gaps and keep the water out.
IMO though i dont think the entire hub is trully "sealed"... or else water wouldnt seep in and we then wouldnt have to replace them. There is obviously some water seeping in as those who have had to replace the hub assembly can testify to (that brown rusty looking-crap that oozes and surrounds the assembly). But to be honest, I forget how the hub assembly is put together so i can't remember all the details - it's been a while since I replaced mine. My brother (97 EB) recently replaced his though and that hub assembly is sitting somewhere so I'll take a peak at it sometime (hopefully).
Off to work! Have a good Friday all! Time to get NAKED!! WOOOO! hehe
You have a good point about how quick and easy it is to replace the bearing assembly. Also I forgot the fact that you said you spray wd40 everywhere so that's probably enough to fill any hairline gaps and keep the water out.
IMO though i dont think the entire hub is trully "sealed"... or else water wouldnt seep in and we then wouldnt have to replace them. There is obviously some water seeping in as those who have had to replace the hub assembly can testify to (that brown rusty looking-crap that oozes and surrounds the assembly). But to be honest, I forget how the hub assembly is put together so i can't remember all the details - it's been a while since I replaced mine. My brother (97 EB) recently replaced his though and that hub assembly is sitting somewhere so I'll take a peak at it sometime (hopefully).
Off to work! Have a good Friday all! Time to get NAKED!! WOOOO! hehe
joehernandez86
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here is the site to look at the pics. i dont have pics of wheels turned yet but i will if it makes you happy.
www.cardomain.com/joehernandez86
www.cardomain.com/joehernandez86
jared ajlouny
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link doesnt work
dman726749
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looks good. Though it looks to me like you have more than 2-2.5" of TT. But I think it's that you have the EB with stiffer torsion bars and springs.
Kudos if it works!
Kudos if it works!
joehernandez86
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i just used square tubing, a bender, and a mig. i could have done a better job. i think i might build a new better one here in a week or so. yea i think i got more than 2in out ot the TT but hey it works so 
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