Got the shakes...

[87redcat]

Okay here we go... Had my '92 since '97. Yes the idle was never "perfect" had a glitch here and there, same as everyone's.

About 2 weeks ago a lady pulled out from traffic and ran into my left front quarter. Fender, bumper and left light. Cost me 140 in parts. Now this whole time the engine was fine. Ran like it always did. Maybe 100 miles later I feel this shaking/rumble in my feet and in the seat. The bumper had been pushed into the tire so I figure wheel bearings. I get new ones and it's still there. U joints. Trans mount. Engine mounts. Plugs, wires and air filter(actually cleaned my KN). And today, crank pulley/harmonic balancer, cleaned the IAC. Shake is still there. It feels like its missing but its not. It revs fine. There's a constant smaller vibration/shake with an intermittent jolt of a shake every few seconds. Driving it almost makes me nauseous.

I've been through this site reading, I can't tell you how many posts, on shaking. Even that long one on the "quest". Tomorrow I will read the codes and post what I find. Hopefully it's just some little sensor that went bad.

In the mean time... Any other suggestions??? This explorer has been one of the best cars I've ever owned. Except for that transmission rebuild at about 130,000.
Thanks

 

[MrShorty]

I'm not good with collision type reparis.

Does it only shake while moving, or does it also shake while stationary?

Have you had the alignment checked? Any chance the tire/wheel was damaged so it is not balanced?

 

[87redcat]

I've gone through the drive train, it's fine. It's the engine for sure. Just sitting at idle you can watch the engine jump around and feel it in the floorboards if you sit in it. And its bad when you drive it. Repairs for the collision are all done. The hit wasn't that hard (to me anyway) but things get shaken pretty bad in wrecks. Have to check the codes when I get home from work.
Thanks for responding

 

[87redcat]

Oh yea. Had the tires rotated and balanced. Nothing out of the ordinary there. And the X tracks straight down the road. That was the first thing I did.

 

[MrShorty]

Have you checked the engine/transmission mounts?

 

[ThePhoenix]

thats my guess

 

[black91EB]

probably not an engine mount. Mine had 2 broken ones at one time, and you couldn't tell except for the gearshift moving and the huge THUNK when you clutched. At idle it worked just fine.

I would check the spark plugs again, and the coil pack. Make sure you have the right firing order. Sounds to me like a bad miss, not an engine mount problem. The engine doesn't jump like that unless it is a mechanical issue. Also, you might want to take a look at your injector plugs, and make sure they are all firing. Take a look at your tach too while it is idling, you should see a slight dip when it "jumps". Good luck.

 

[ThePhoenix]

my bad. I mis read it...I have that THUNK too

 

[94EddieBauerRock]

I agree. I would check plugs and wires as when I had a broken plug wire it ran rough enough to shake pretty good. You could also clean your MAF as this also caused my engine to run rough in the past.

 

[black91EB]

I agree. I would check plugs and wires as when I had a broken plug wire it ran rough enough to shake pretty good. You could also clean your MAF as this also caused my engine to run rough in the past.

also, the MAF could have gotten damaged, since it is right on that side. Or, might have simply come unplugged.

 

[87redcat]

Thanks guys. Headed out to check codes and all that you have mentioned now.

One note. It was doing it with my old plugs and wires and after I put new ones on. My first guess after all the mechanical I changed/replaced was the coil pack. Well see.

 

[black91EB]

no problem, had to help out a fellow tennessean.

 

[87redcat]

Thanks Black.
Codes:

KOEO 629
Continuous 113 157
KOER 538

Not sure about the KOEO results. That number reads for continuous test???
ok. Mass air flow and ACT sensors.
Got new ones. Installed and cleared the codes.
STILL SHAKES. Continuous code reads good now though.
checking for vacuum leaks... nothing

What does the KOER code 538 mean? Something about an insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic range test. Is that the TPS???
Help

 

[MrShorty]

KOEO 629 according to my code list is a legitimate KOEO code. It refers to a fault in the torque converter clutch solenoid circuit. Probably either a full open in the circuit or a short to ground. I doubt it would be contributing to a shake.

KOER 538 is almost always operator error during the KOER test. Specifically it indicates that you didn't correctly perform the "goose" test when told. Review your test instructions (and the stickies in the EEC-IV forum, if your instructions aren't clear or don't mention the "goose" test) and repeat the KOER test paying special attention to the "goose" test.

 

[87redcat]

Thanks Mr. Shorty. Tomorrow is another day. Thought I had the test right. I'll look over the sticky again. This is the first time I have ever had to do this much stuff on my X. My ex was easier than this.

 

[87redcat]

Koer test ok. Cleared codes after replacing MAF and ACT. (codes 113 & 157) No sparks at night from the plugs and wires. Still shakes. Next will be checking the vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Then I guess the injectors. Pull one plug at a time. Let you guys know how I end up.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far.
D

 

[black91EB]

get yourself a mechanic's stethoscope, you can place it on each of the injectors listen to see if it is firing. If you don't know, they look like this mechanics stethoscope and they are not expensive.

 

[87redcat]

Good idea. Never thought of that.
Thanks

 

[87redcat]

Okay. I've had time to sit and think about this. Kidney stones will do that to ya.
My time is money. Even if it is spent sleeping. Besides I have an old Harley I am getting ready for a run to Sturgis this year in August. SO... This morning I decided to take her to the shop. Good little place around the corner from me. I will post what they find and the fix for future problems.

 

[87redcat]

Okay here's the last of this. No it is not fixed yet.
Took it to the shop yesterday. They kept it overnight. Ran a battery of tests and could not find anything wrong with it??? Vac held steady around 17-18, spark good on all cylinders, no vac leaks, injectors all firing like they should. They figure it's something internal. (one example would be one ring sticking allowing blow by causing the shake) They wanted to know if I wanted them to start tearing it apart, explained that the 4.0 motor was expensive to rebuild. New rebuilt would run me 2500 plus another 1000 for install. NO Thank you... Their sugesstion...
Run it until something blows out the side.
Only good thing out of this was that they didn't charge me anything. They've been in business a long time and this is not my first time there. Not a bad place.
So I stopped at the store and grabbed some SeaFoam. Half in the oil, half in the vac and another full one in the gas tank. Keep your fingers crossed.
Thanks to everybody that has helped along the way. Hopefully one day I can post a fix to this problem.
CYA
Dave