[Guide] Aux-In With Stock 6 Disc In-Dash CD Player | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

[Guide] Aux-In With Stock 6 Disc In-Dash CD Player

BarryCarey

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 2, 2014
Messages
117
Reaction score
1
City, State
Waterville, Maine
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Explorer EB V8
** WIP: Still working on writing, proof reading and getting pictures. I didn't intend on making a guide so I didn't take pictures of the whole process **

I wanted to have an Aux in option for my factory stereo in my 2003 Eddie Bauer. I spent some time digging around and there's very little information on the topic.

Most of the information out there says you're out of luck if you have the in-dash 6 disc. This is not true.

The solution I came to gives me an Aux-In port and USB Charging. Plus I retain the factory steering wheel controls.

The heart of the solution is a unit by Pac Audio called a PXDX. It's a little box that is made to interface with loads of factory stereos and provide Aux-In ability.

I then used a flush mount plug that has a 3.5mm jack and USB port that is the same size as a car cigarette lighter. I replaced the stock cigarette lighter with this unit. There are other types of jacks you can mount but I didn't want to drill new holes in the panels.

I wanted to make this post in-case anyone wants to take the same route.


3c2bca7b9e.jpg

82273d5c1a.jpg



** DISCLAIMER **
I'm not an expert with auto wiring. If you catch you car on fire don't blame me. I'm not sure if this is the "proper" way to do the electrical connections but it works. The cigarette lighter power lines are fused so I don't believe an in-line fuse is needed.

Total Cost: $90 to $110

Parts Needed:

Pac Audio PXDX (They say it WILL NOT work with 6 disc in-dash changer. But IT DOES WORK)
Ford Harness For PXDX
Flush Mount 3.5mm and USB port
3 Foot 3.5mm Cable
12v to 5v output Adapter with USB output
Industrial Strength Velcro
16 gauge wire
16 gauge butt connectors. (Or bullet connectors if you wish to make it easily removable)
Black Zip Ties

Tools Needed:
8mm socket
Wire Cutters / Strippers
Butter Knife or Trim Pry Kit
12v Test Light

51538f891e.jpg

722db50bae.jpg

d65e47d410.jpg

170c05a9ec.jpg

e1d6d99884.jpg

eadc70aaeb.jpg



Guide:

** Pictures Coming **

Remove Center Console And Trim :

Remove the one 8mm bolt in the large front cubby. You then need to open the center compartment and gently pry in the gap at the front of the cubby. The center console will pop up allowing you to pull it out.

Unplug the cigarette lighter from the center console.

Remove Trim Ring around stereo. Sliding a wide butter knife into the edge and prying up will release the clips. Be careful as not to break the plastic.
Remove CD Player

Install 12v to 5v Converter

This converter will give us 5 volt USB power to charge our phone or other device.

To power this unit I stole the connections to the cigarette lighter since I will be removing it anyway.

** WARNING ** If you screw up here you will blow fuses. It will likely blow the #9 fuse under the hood. Possibly the #24 under the dash

Take the plug that went to the cigarette lighter and peel the tape back. Cut the ground wire and then cut the power wire. I recommend putting a piece of tape over the power wire temporarily. I didn't do this and blew the above mentioned fuse.

Like an idiot I cut through both wires at once hence why I know which fuse blows...

Strip and attach a butt connector to each end of the wires we just cut. Then take the 2 wires on the converter and attach them to the other end of the butt connector.

Once you do this the unit has power. You can plugin a USB cable and attach your phone to see if it charges. If all goes well it should work. No need to turn the key on as these power lines are always life. If it doesn't work, use your test light to see if there's power at the butt connectors. If not, check fuse #9 under the hood.

Stick the Velcro to the back of the converter and stick it as close to the center compartment as you can.

Install the 3.5mm / USB Jack In Center Console

Grab the center console and remove the entire cigarette lighter assembly. There's a tang you need to lift up and it will slow right out.

The hole that is left has 2 small plastic tangs in it. Use a file and file this down so you're left with a perfect circle.

Take the 3.5mm / USB jack thing and feed the cables through the cigarette lighter hole FROM THE TOP.

Once you have it seated grab the big plastic nut that came in the kit and feed the wires through it. This lets you screw thread it onto the bottom of the jack to hold it tight in the console.

Take the long RCA cable and feed it up the right side of the console to the back right side of the stereo cubby.

Set the center console aside for now

Install The PXDX

This unit requires a constant 12v supply and a ground wire. To supply this I used the unused plug for the front cigarette lighter in the smokers package. In my truck this plug was taped to a wire bundle about where the drive side cup holder would be. The jack is the same type as the one we cut off previously, just a different color.

Do the same as above, cut off the connector and attach butt connectors.

Take the PXDX wire harness and attach a butt connector to each end.

You then need to run 2 lengths of 16 gauge wire all the way to the back of the stereo compartment. I recommend running the wires so you can get the proper length. After you cut them to length pull them out.

Connect each wire to the 2 butt connectors on the PXDX hardness

Stick the hardness all the way to the back right of the stereo compartment and run the wires back down to the power source we just prepped. Connect these 2 wires to the butt connects on the power source TAKING CARE TO NOT GET THE POWER AND GROUND BACKWARDS

Take the huge connector from the stock stereo and plug it into the corresponding plug on the PXDX harness

Take the PXDX RCA connection and connect the RCA ends to the long RCA cable you ran into the stereo cubby.

Grab your PXDX and Velcro. Stock a huge piece onto the back of the PXDX. Peal the plastic off the adhesive on the other side. Stick it as far back and to the right of the stereo cubby. MAKE SURE THE BIG PLASTIC CONNECTOR ON THE PXDX IS FACING THE DRIVERS SIDE

Connect the RCA connector to the PXDX

Connect the wire harness to the PXDX

Test If It Works

If all went well it should now work. You will obviously want to test it before you put everything back together.

Grab your stock stereo and plug all the connectors it. I just let mine hang from the wires. Probably not smart but it worked.

Grab your 3.5mm wire and plug it into the jack in the center console. Connect the other end to an audio source.

Turn on your key and hit the CD button. You should see the CD player screen flashing between 1:00 and 2:00. You should now be getting audio out of the audio device you plugged in.

0d9dd8e7cc.jpg


Finish Up

Once you confirm it's working clean all of your wiring up. I recommend wrapping all your electrical connections in electrical tape.

Push the stereo back in being careful to make sure it's not push on anything you added up there.

I went through and zip tied all of my wires down to make sure they are secure.

The 3.5mm / USB thing in the center console will have a lot of extra wire left. I bundled it tightly together and zip tied it. There's enough room under the center console to stash it.

That's it. You now have a factory looking Aux-in port and USB charging.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Nice man! That's a great write up. Any info I found felt out dated from 2010.

I am debating this too but the cost is nearly as much as getting a double din head unit. I do appreciate the stock look a lot! I will probably decide doing this if there are no drawbacks to the sound quality.

Are there any loss in sound? When you have the usb charging your device and the car running, is there any "alternator whine"?

I am currently planning my audio (planning for stealth box/sub, replacing all speakers and figuring a way to play music from my phone).
 






Very nice work. So do you have track control from the steering wheel? I should know but it's been a while since I used the AUX in my older truck. I can't recall but I guess the play control is via the device, with volume and mute on the dash.
 






Nice man! That's a great write up. Any info I found felt out dated from 2010.

I am debating this too but the cost is nearly as much as getting a double din head unit. I do appreciate the stock look a lot! I will probably decide doing this if there are no drawbacks to the sound quality.

Are there any loss in sound? When you have the usb charging your device and the car running, is there any "alternator whine"?

I am currently planning my audio (planning for stealth box/sub, replacing all speakers and figuring a way to play music from my phone).

Audio sounds fine to me. Although I mostly listen to podcasts and audio books. I did throw on some music this morning and it sounds about as good as the CD player. The factory amp and sub still work with this setup.

No change in alternator sound

Very nice work. So do you have track control from the steering wheel? I should know but it's been a while since I used the AUX in my older truck. I can't recall but I guess the play control is via the device, with volume and mute on the dash.

No track control but the volume related steering wheel controls work.
 






You did a nice job with this. I know a lot of threads come up wanting to know how it's done.
 






You did a nice job with this. I know a lot of threads come up wanting to know how it's done.

Thank you.

I hope it helps others looking to do the same. I spent loads of time looking into this only to find there's very little information. Most of it just speculation and people saying it cannot be done with the in-dash changer.
 






I am contemplating doing this, but the Crutchfield headquarters is in the town I live in and they have head units that are compatible with the steering wheel controls and the factory sub that I want to keep use of.
 






Rear DVD?

This looks like a great way to keep the stock head unit in the system to maintain the rear DVD entertainment system too. My rig had the old 6 disc changer with rear dvd and once I went to a Pioneer head unit, I lost all the functionality of the rear entertainment system, which I'm still not happy about.

Nice write up for this job!
 






Just an FYI:
This can't be done if you have the factory entertainment system. If you want a aux cord the quickest and easiest way, get a 3.5mm to RCA and plug it into the plugs behind the screen. To use cycle through using the music note on the steering wheel. To save money and do the job neater and quicker I soldered a aux extender to it and fed the female end through the hole on the side of the center console(where the string goes).
 






Just an FYI:
This can't be done if you have the factory entertainment system. If you want a aux cord the quickest and easiest way, get a 3.5mm to RCA and plug it into the plugs behind the screen. To use cycle through using the music note on the steering wheel. To save money and do the job neater and quicker I soldered a aux extender to it and fed the female end through the hole on the side of the center console(where the string goes).
Wow! I haven't checked this thread in a while, but since then it occurred to me to do the exact same thing. I had not figured out how to select AUX from the front seats, thank you for the tip. I am thinking though that the output is lower even when turning the volume up from the front seats. I had everything turned up and it was decent, but when I cycled to FM without turning the volume down it nearly blew me back out of the truck. It was exponentially louder.
 






Wow! I haven't checked this thread in a while, but since then it occurred to me to do the exact same thing. I had not figured out how to select AUX from the front seats, thank you for the tip. I am thinking though that the output is lower even when turning the volume up from the front seats. I had everything turned up and it was decent, but when I cycled to FM without turning the volume down it nearly blew me back out of the truck. It was exponentially louder.

Glad i helped at least one person out. Im in the process either leaving it as is, buying a square one and putting in the center console, or doing it the same way as pictured above. Right now if my phone charger or aux cord goes bad i have to take the lid, and rear vent/cup holder out. Googled it up and this thread came up. Lucky its for an explorer and i have a mountaineer
 






Back
Top