Have I ruined my wheel spindles?

[angstrom08]

2001 XLT 2WD 229,000 miles.

I bought it used with ~200,000 miles three years ago. I had a local mechanic give it a tune up, which included him re-greasing the wheel bearings. Around a year and a half later, I started hearing a humming/droning noise that changed in pitch with changes in wheel speed and only became audible at around 35 mph. Ultimately concluded it must be the wheel bearings. With a friend, we replaced the front rotors, pads, seals and both wheel bearings. Despite having purchased Timken bearings, we used the races that were factory installed in the replacement rotors.

Unfortunately, I misread the instructions (in-lbs, not ft-lbs!) from the ford shop manual and I'm rather certain we over-tightened the spindle nut. I believe this led to the passenger side seal failing allowing water, sand, dirt, and rust to enter and contaminate the bearings.

Two weeks ago, the same humming/droning noise returned and I purchased a new set of seals, inner bearings and outer bearings. I noticed that the wheel bearings I removed had what appeared to be charring/heat marks on the inside of the bearing and on the spindles. While the passenger side was worse, due to the leak, the driver's side spindle appeared more worn. Unfortunately, I don't have any good photos of the passenger side. In these photos of the driver's side, specifically the third, you can see how worn away the actual spindle is. Should I replace these? I can't seem to find this part on rockauto.com or fordparts.com - am I searching wrong?

4

Thank you!

 

[shucker1]

Can't really tell from the picture but the inboard side of the left spindle looks kind of blue to me which indicates heat stress.

On that spindle can you "Hang A Fingernail" in that discolored area? (Does it have a ridge cut into it?)

 

[angstrom08]

Can't really tell from the picture but the inboard side of the left spindle looks kind of blue to me which indicates heat stress.

On that spindle can you "Hang A Fingernail" in that discolored area? (Does it have a ridge cut into it?)

Yes, unfortunately, I think I could. I remember feeling distinct ridges on the passenger side and to a lesser extent on the pictured driver's side.

 

[XLTrunner]

Charring can be removed with a fine grit emery cloth. If there is actual metal wear, then yes, you're looking at replacing the spindles. How about finding a set at your local Pick-n-Pull?

 

[koda2000]

Run your fingernail across the suspect area. If it catches you've most likely ruined the spindle. You should ALWAYS replace the races when you replace the wheel bearings.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

If it catches/is discolored, replace it. I've always been somewhat curious as to how exactly the 2WD system goes together in the event you needed a spindle, so I'll keep an eye on this thread

 

[koda2000]

If it catches/is discolored, replace it. I've always been somewhat curious as to how exactly the 2WD system goes together in the event you needed a spindle, so I'll keep an eye on this thread

You need to disconnect the ball joints from the spindle/knuckle to remove the spindle (and of course the tie rod end and anything else brake related).

 

[angstrom08]

I did replace the races every time. A year and a half ago, I used the races that came pressed in to the replacement rotor; last week I used a hammer and punch to knock the old races out. I used a 1" bolt and a set of thick washers (a few slightly smaller than the inside of the race and a few larger than the outside but smaller than the wheel hub) to make a set of primitive race installers. While I tried not to score the rotor, I did leave a few superficial marks. In hindsight, for the time it took to remove and install the races, I should have simply bought a new set of rotors.



I'm in Grand Rapids, MI for work and there appears to be two pick and pulls in the area. As I do my own repairs and am not terribly confident in my work, I travel with most of my tools in the back. I'll try the pick and pulls for parts on Thursday.

Is the spindle pressed into the knuckle? Would it be easiest to pull and replace the spindle and knuckle as one piece? Don't I need a special tool to disconnect the ball joints?

Thank you!

 

[koda2000]

I did replace the races every time. A year and a half ago, I used the races that came pressed in to the replacement rotor; last week I used a hammer and punch to knock the old races out. I used a 1" bolt and a set of thick washers (a few slightly smaller than the inside of the race and a few larger than the outside but smaller than the wheel hub) to make a set of primitive race installers. While I tried not to score the rotor, I did leave a few superficial marks. In hindsight, for the time it took to remove and install the races, I should have simply bought a new set of rotors.



I'm in Grand Rapids, MI for work and there appears to be two pick and pulls in the area. As I do my own repairs and am not terribly confident in my work, I travel with most of my tools in the back. I'll try the pick and pulls for parts on Thursday.

Is the spindle pressed into the knuckle? Would it be easiest to pull and replace the spindle and knuckle as one piece? Don't I need a special tool to disconnect the ball joints?

Thank you!

The spindle is part of the knuckle and cannot be replaced separately (thank goodness). The upper ball joint is held to the top of the knuckle with a pinch bolt. The lower ball joint is held in place with an engineered taper. Sometimes (with the lower bj nut loosened) you can get the taper to pop by smacking the knuckle with a BFH, but I usually use a 2-jaw puller to put tension on the knuckle before hitting it.

 

[JCat]

I took this gamble and lost. It was 2 am in the middle of nowhere . . . . and my right front tire/wheel/hub decided to come off and travel at 45 degrees at about 60 mph into a farmers field.

 

[koda2000]

I took this gamble and lost. It was 2 am in the middle of nowhere . . . . and my right front tire/wheel/hub decided to come off and travel at 45 degrees at about 60 mph into a farmers field.

Not sure exactly what "gamble" you took, but you're lucky you didn't kill yourself (or worse yet someone else).

 

[boominXplorer]

If you haven't picked up new spindles yet you can get some off an 01 sport or Sport trac for and run a larger rotor for better braking. The rest of the spindle is identical to yours but the caliper bolt spacing.

 

[JCat]

Not sure exactly what "gamble" you took, but you're lucky you didn't kill yourself (or worse yet someone else).

I did not replace the spindle when I should have.

 

[david4451]

Reading the comments on spindles, it is critical that these tapered roller bearings are not over tightened. If they are it will generate a massive amount of heat and rapid failure, leading to life threatening conditions.

 

[boominXplorer]

Reading the comments on spindles, it is critical that these tapered roller bearings are not over tightened. If they are it will generate a massive amount of heat and rapid failure, leading to life threatening conditions.

To add they need to be correctly greased. Old school method by hand always works, just make sure you have grease packed behind every roller.

 

[pjtoledo]

that is not heat marks on the spindle, its a case of the surface being polished from the inner race spinning on the spindle stub.
with bearings like that its common for the inner race to slowly rotate, when it does it polishes the stub, prolonged action will start to wear the stub.
notice how the marks have well defined borders? and you can see where the machining marks are? look at the thin of lines reflection on the stub, the top and bottom show a sharp image that is a polished surface, the untouched areas have a very fuzzy line because the factory machining leaves a course finish. looks like the center double line is blacked out.
those bearings should be installed with clean metal on the spindle and inside the race, no grease there please. don't want them to rotate easily.

if those were my knuckles I would scuff the area with fine sandpaper, clean and test fit just the bearing to check for play. there has to be some play, otherwise the bearing would be a press fit.
the seal area looks bad, clean and polish with extremely fine paper. maybe hit it with a buffing wheel.

if you replace the knuckles the Ranger uses the same part,,,PROVIDED its a torsion bar setup. the coil spring knuckles are different.

 

[pjtoledo]

If you haven't picked up new spindles yet you can get some off an 01 sport or Sport trac for and run a larger rotor for better braking. The rest of the spindle is identical to yours but the caliper bolt spacing.

true.
due to the larger brakes 16" factory wheels are then required. most 15"s will hit the caliper, depends on backspacing for aftermarket ones.

 

[koda2000]

FYI: When working with bearings, races and seals, an installer tool set is a great thing to use. It makes the job easy, you wont ruin anything and you'll know by the feel and sound when the bearing or race is fully seated. I recently borrowed one from O'Reilly's to install a rear axle bearing and it made the job a snap. I'd buy a set, but they're around $70, so borrowing made more sense for me as I wouldn't use the tool set enough to justify buying one.

If you're going to clean up the spindle, use Emory cloth, not sandpaper. I'd clean it up and run a finger nail over the surface. If your fingernail doesn't catch on anything, test fit a new bearing dry and make sure there's no addition play over the suspect area. If it feels ok it should be fine. As far as not having grease under the center of the bearing, that's ridiculous. Once the hub warms up the grease liquefies and is intended to go everywhere. As mentioned the most important thing is to set the torque on the axle nut correctly. A little too loose i better than too tight.

 

[pjtoledo]

its Emery.
though they are different materials most guys use the terms interchangeably.
even better, try some extra fine Crocus cloth. combine that with WD40 and a shoe string to clean and polish round shafts.
if your hubs heat up enough to liquify grease you have problems.
the friction between the inner race and the shaft, plus the pressure against the rear step is supposed keep the inner race from spinning.

 

[pjtoledo]

Is the spindle pressed into the knuckle? Would it be easiest to pull and replace the spindle and knuckle as one piece? Don't I need a special tool to disconnect the ball joints?

actually the answer is yes. during manufacturing the spindle shaft is pressed into the knuckle casting,,,,with many, many tons of pressure and most likely some heat.
you ain't gonna get it out unless you cut the knuckle in half.