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ok sorry, i dont think i was being very clear. I noticed they go bad when it gets that hot, and it hardly gets that hot. I have a 180 thermostat and it still hardly gets to 180, most of the time it runs at 150. It runs good then all of a sudden a check engine light will flash up and it seems to run fine then under a heavy load gets hot quick and then thats when it happens.
NEoffroad .... Not sure if I will have a problem again with mine or not... I just replaced both heads last month. My problem was twofold... first lost compression in #4 cylinder due to cracked or burnt exhaust valve and had a blown head gasket between #1 and #2cylinders .... I could not see any crack(s) in the heads,, although they can be hard to spot ... were yours obvious or easy to see ? Your idea about a bad O2 sensor nay nat be a bad one .....
Good point. I always thought it was running lean that made em run hot.
To NSoffroad: people say if the Cat's are plugged (or have had anti freeze run through them) they'll start cooking exhaust valves.
Your fuel pressure down where it should be?
I suspect this one will sound stupid but there's been more than one thread around here where the OP says truck runs normally cool till going uphill then over heats. Turns out it's just a dirty radiator.
the way you describe this "It runs good then all of a sudden a check engine light will flash up and it seems to run fine then under a heavy load gets hot quick and then thats when it happens: wouldn't it throw some codes?
Check your thermostat, sounds like it might not be operating correctly, try checking your waterpu,p also. Here is a trick you can try, the next time you are overheating, pull off the intake tube and see if their is any steam coming out. I had cracked heads and this was the only way to tell, I barely had enough coolant in the oil to show up on the dipstick.
I'd like a clearer explanation of how you do this. what are you calling the intake tube? Pull it off of where? Intake tube off the water pump? Wouldn't that be the lower radiator hose? Since I know you aren't pulling that one off when it's hot which one are you referring too?
Is this trick, checking for cracked heads or function of the water pump?
I'm responding to an old posting... I live in Phx and have my heads off my 07 expl 4.0 They are 95TMs I bought from a place in Ca last year, used the old head bolts and ran water for coolant til I clogged my thermostat.
Dr head is visibly warped and cracked between the water and oil jackets, but show no visible cracks between valves.
Pass head has very minimal cracks between two water jackets and appears straight.
Anyway, I thought to just find some rebuilts locally. I paid 192.00 each for new complete heads last year, and doin't remember where in Cal I got them, so I'm guessing that getting used ones here would be my best bet...Bill's doesn't sound promising.. Could you recommend a shop? Baileys in Mesa? Five Star in Glendale???
I bought complete new heads for about $220 each delivered from King Cylinder Heads in Oakland, CA. They are on since October and working fine thus far.... I am not in the Ariz area, so I could not recommend a local shop to try ..... Good Luck....