Head Gasket change on '93 Ranger 4 liter 4wd automatic

[sunrse777]

Right, the last pass on the head bolts is the 80 - 85 degree turn, about a quarter of a turn on the bolt..... But the lower intake and the heads should be torqued on at the same time, in the proper sequence to get the correct crush on both the head gaskets and the lower intake gaskets.... This procedure is well documented in the Chilton Manual for these trucks .....

 

[SysIntegr8tor]

I rebuilt this top end last year. I noticed when I torqued the head bolts that when they got to spec, they seemed to get a feel like when you are about to snap off a bolt you are tightening - the stretching feel followed by hardening and snappig if you continue to turn the bolt even a few more degrees. My hair stood on end and I thought that I might have really failed at the rebuild at that moment!
Nowhere in the all data pro instructions OR the ..I think it was a Mitchell that I copied pages fro, in the public library reference section.
As you can see, I am fresh off the punkin truk!
Live and Learn or die trying!
My thermostat stuck shut last week and it seems that the temp sending unit only allows the temp gauge to go to about halfway. Now I have water in my oil, oil in my water (although not very much in either)...
Would you care to venture a guess as to the extent and nature of the situation?

 

[SysIntegr8tor]

I forgot to add...Thank you Maniak! Without resources such as yourself, I would be committing the same faux pas in a few days when I rebuild.
To what extent must I go to be certain that all the water is out of the oil galleries?
I can't simply change the oil and expect the hydrolized clots to make their way through the engine by themselves can I ?
Do I need to tear the engine completely down this time?
I can't really afford to, but what modifications would you recommend while rebuilding the top end?
I mean, I will make sure that I get a set of 95's? Best brand/type of gasket set? Last time I had a large number of gaskets left over, but I can't remember which ones they were.
Thanks again

 

[jhclance]

Change the oil using cheap oil and filter run it 50 miles and change it again using good oil and filter and your set ofcourse check it often to be sure no more show up, but you will most likely not see any.

 

[sunrse777]

SysInteg8tor -I agree. Wipe away what you can get at of course, but change the oil... run it for a short period
( 30 minutes) ... re-check the oil and coolant.. Hopefully you do not see any mixing evident... then run for 25 to 50 miles and even if you do not see anything mixing,,, change the oil... This is a cheap form of insurance....
Likely cause of what you are seeing now, on these 4.0Ls, is a cracked head ... I had a blown head gasket.. did not see oil / coolant mixing, but did have bubbling into the coolant overflow... This same engine also had a burnt exhaust valve....
As for gaskets, I am using a Fel-Pro set with the improved head gaskets (PT-2). Good luck.... I will not get to putting the heads on until next week.. Have to get a 1/2 inch drive T-55 Torx socket.... By the way,,, did you buy heads ? I found a place in Cali that has a great price on new heads...

 

[SysIntegr8tor]

When I bought my gasket set(I forget where I got it) It had injector parts in it. I didn't do anything with them, but rebuilding them didn't look too complicated.
Are there any special considerations or caveats to pay special attention to when rebuilding injectors? Other than incredible cleanliness I mean.

 

[Maniak]

I like the last couple of suggestions.. Just fix the issue and while you have the heads off get them checked/repaired/rebuilt. Also, while you have the heads off, clean off the tops of the pistons. I used those little 2" round surface conditioners that you put on a die grinder and knocked off all of the carbon type stuff off the top.

Once fixed, just run it a while (< 100 miles) then let it idle with some marvel mystery oil or 1/2 quart of ATF add to the oil for 5-10 minutes (low idle.. don't touch the throttle) then shut it down, drain the oil really well and refill with your oil of choice (don't forget the filter)

~Mark

 

[Maniak]

When I bought my gasket set(I forget where I got it) It had injector parts in it. I didn't do anything with them, but rebuilding them didn't look too complicated.
Are there any special considerations or caveats to pay special attention to when rebuilding injectors? Other than incredible cleanliness I mean.

I don't remember seeing injector parts in a top end kit other than just o-rings for the top and bottom. If you want to change out the o-rings, this is the time to do it. Its much easier to take the fuel rail off the lower intake and reinstall it correctly (without pinching the o-rings) when its not on the vehicle. If you try to change out the o-rings with the lower intake on the motor (in the truck) it is very easy to get one of the injectors back in not quite straight since you can't see things as well.

Also, if you change out those o-rings, lube the o-rings before you install the injector. I used food Grade oil (vegetable oil would even work).

~Mark

 

[sunrse777]

I have not separated the fuel rail from the lower intake yet, took it all off as one assembly.... I hear good and bad things about taking the fuel rail off if you don't have any reason to... Aligning the 6 injectors properly ro re-sandwich the wole thing together can be tricky.... I have the 6 O-Rings in the kit that the head gaskets were in.... I am not sure if I am going to take the fuel rail off or not.... One other post I had had a great reply that basically said " Don't Do it "... then another was saying it's not that hard to do... Plus these are old injectors ... I am just alittle leary of disturbing them ... Any comments from anyone ???????? :rangerred:

 

[Maniak]

I usually say don't disturb them in you don't need to. If you just changing head gaskets, why bother.. Most people take the fuel rail off the lower intake when they take off the lower intake because it looks like you need to. Then they try to put it back on when they already torqued the lower intake to the block which means they are now installing the fuel rail with it already in the vehicle.

If for some reason you want to, or need to, it is much easier to do off the vehicle as you can rotate the whole assembly around to make sure you got them all lines up nicely and didn't break or pinch an o-ring.

~Mark

 

[SysIntegr8tor]

YOu're right, just the o-rings.
AZ has a way with rubber products due to the extreme dryness and heat. Would you recommend changing those orings while its apart on an az 97 with 140k on it or don't fix it if it isn't broken?

 

[SysIntegr8tor]

I bought my last heads from a place in ca. they looked like factory heads and they said they were and that they were getting them from china.
I think I paid 192 each built.
Where did you get yours?
was it like cylinder head exchange or something? I can't remember and the paperwork got lost in the move. I think it was sacramento or fresno or somewhere else in the north, can't recall
Those die grinder quick change disks are a godsend!
Hrbr Frt has die grinders for $20 or so when on spcl. Dunno how anyone ever successfully cleaned aluminum gasket surfaces before they came out.
Using it on the piston in place is a perfect example, what else would fit in there and buff em up in under two minutes? Child's play! Just loaned my right angle one to another gremmie doing a 351 cleveland water pump and he bought me a steak dinner.

 

[SysIntegr8tor]

Thanks, torqueing the intake etc at the same time is defintely important as it changes everything if not done in the correct sequence. I didn't use the chilton. I used the big green ones at the libraryt I think they were mitchell or something and I looked at the alldata ones but only prited out the library ones My loss.

 

[sunrse777]

I bought the heads, with new valves cut in, spings, and seals from King Cylinder Heads in Oakland, CA.... $229 each delivered. They look really good... but the test will be when I get them on.... For a '93 with over 150K miles on it,,, wasn't worth buying new ones from Ford for much more... :rangerred:

 

[sunrse777]

I don't have a die grinder, but I do have a Dremel tool. Has anyone used a Dremel to remove the carbon buildup on the tops od the pistons ? What type of disc or pad should I use ?? What type of pad have you been using to clean-up the gasket surfaces without doing any damage to them ?? Thanks...

 

[Maniak]

I used this in the die grinder.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94196


You might be able to use this in the dremel.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96785

I use the surface conditioner disc. Not the sanding disc.

~Mark

 

[sunrse777]

Maniak, Thanks..... I should turn the engine to bring the piston up to TDC to do the carbon removal right ? No problem with turning the engine over ? Thanks ..... last engine I did this on was a 60s vintage big block with a good old points distributor..:rangerred:

 

[Maniak]

No problem turning it over by hand.. and yes, I would bring them to TDC, only so you don't get a chance of hitting the cylinder walls.

You don't have to re-find TDC on #1 when you install it, unlike when you turn it with the dist. out.

~Mark

 

[NSoffroad]

I know this thread is a little old. but I had a question similar but kind of in a different direction. I believe I have cracked my heads. I have 0 pressure in the #1 cylinder and 70 in the #2 cylinder. The others are all around 130-150. This will be the 4th time replacing my heads. This has typically happens when driving up hill on the freeway on long trips. My temperature will all of a sudden jump, then I feel the extreme power loss which I believe is a result from the heads cracking. It is frustrating to keep changing these even though it gets easier every time. I am trying to find the underlying problem. The guy that I get my heads from says he thinks my fuel mixture is off because my heads crack right at the exhaust ports. He says that not all the fuel is burning in the cylinder and burning up in the exhaust manifold, getting really hot, and cracking the heads. I did have a check engine light I will reset and check when I get it put back together. But can someone tell me why the heads are always the first thing to go and so quickly.(O2 sensors maybe??) I have a temperature guage and it seems to happen whenever it gets over 230 degrees. Like I said its just frustrating, am I the only one with this problem?

 

[niteklub79]

penetrant (kroil) on exhaust manifolds - regularly for 3 days... make sure you have a t55 torx bit to take off head bolts...and make sure you replace your fuel injector o-rings...just replaced my heads over thanksgiving...still have the online repair manual if you need schematics