Head Gasket Repair/Replacement | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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October 21, 2013
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City, State
Louisville, Kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Ford Explorer
Hey guys! This is going to be my first write up, as it was something easy, but very successful and saved me a lot of money.

Today I am going to outline the required steps to replace your blown head gasket, warped/cracked heads, and coolant leaks for $45!

Below, are pictured all the supplies you will need for this.


Your amount of antifreeze needed will vary, I needed a lot because my head was leaking about a gallon a day.

I purchased a new radiator cap at Autozone for $5.99 as a precautionary measure. These things are known to go out at around 150,000-180,000, so i figured, why not. (I plan to replace the entire cooling system around the next oil change, just because I plan on having this thing a while.)

FINALLY, the miracle worker. The stuff you see on the right is the greatest thing to happen since sliced bread. It is pretty self explanatory, so I will give you the pictures to read if you would like to.







Your first step is going to be to MAKE SURE you have a cool engine. DO NOT try this when the engine is warm, not only will you waste your money, but you will also get a nice, warm surprise.

You can check to make sure your engine is fully cool by turning your key to the last position before starting it. The needle should be in the position shown below.


Once you have made sure your engine is cool, go ahead and crack open the coolant tank, pop in your funnel, shake extremely well, and get to pouring!


After you finish pouring in the product, tighten down the radiator cap, and start the truck up. You're gonna wanna let it get up to where the thermostat opens up, aka normal operating temperature. Turn the heat and all fans on high and let it run for about 15 minutes, or however long it takes to reach the point shown below!


Go ahead and turn the truck off and let it sit for 30 minutes, or entirely cool like we learned above.

So now you need to top off your radiator fluid up to the TOP of the COLD FILL LINE. Tighten down that radiator cap once it is filled up. (Correct level shown below for reference.)


Now the next part is the only somewhat difficult part of the whole shebang, and that is figuring out how to get the truck to run a high idle (1200 RPM's is the goal, here) for 15 minutes. What I did was utilize red neck ENGINE-nuity. I simply stuck a broom stick on the gas pedal and scooted the seat up until it was pushed down far enough :D

The simple alternative is to drive it gently for about 15 minutes to get that thermostat opened up again!

After that, shut her back down and let it cool down entirely one last time. (The last time, I promise!)

Now once it cools down, you will see your coolant level has dropped again. Top off the antifreeze as needed, and you are all done.

Check around the engine bay for any tools you might have used, spills you may have made, or anything you don't want to mess up!

AND THERE YOU HAVE IT! You have just repaired your head gasket for $45, and it is guaranteed for life.

Hang on to your receipt and bottle for the warranty.

I have ragged the piss out of this thing today to really test the product and not once has it thought of overheating. This stuff works.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask, and if you need a more visual approach, I have done the liberty of making a step by step video that covers every single thing you need to know!


Now I need to figure out why my heat still only works at high speeds, and why she is hissing at me on a hard acceleration! (Both problems I had LONG before this.)

Let me know what you guys think of my first write up.

Keep Explorin'