headlight switch "nut"

[MrShorty]

Of all the irritating things to break, the other day, the plastic "nut" that holds my headlight switch in broke. Headlight switch still works, but it is difficult to turn the lights off because there's nothing holding the switch in place.

It should be easy enough to replace, assuming I can find the part. I'll probably head down to the parts stores tomorrow to see if anyone has it. Any thoughts on finding it?

 

[FIND]

I save the ones from bad switches because I have seen several break. Just get one at the pick and pull.

 

[MrShorty]

As brittle as the plastic can get after 20 years, it doesn't seem like a bad idea.

At one point, I was at the hardware store and was checking the "lamp nipples" that fit in light fixtures -- basically a hollow bolt. I was figuring one of those would work just fine (with a nut or two to secure the switch), but the ones at the local hardware store were either too big or too small.

I ended up at the Ford dealership and was pleasantly surprised that he says he can get one. A couple of days and <$10 (still seems like a lot for a little piece of plastic, but easier than driving all over to the junkyards to find one) and I should have it. As easily as it broke, though, I don't know that I'd mind picking up an extra or two the next time I see one in the junkyard.

 

[mr cribb]

I had that happen on mine, and the PO tried JB welding it.... that was an epic failure.

I wound up replacing the whole assembly.

As I think about it, mine was JB welded on the front.... so we may not be talking about the same thing.

EDIT later today: yes we are, as I drove it today I looked at mine and the nut is what was JB welded together... had I known I could've replaced just that part I prob would've gone that route, however the better switch didn't cost me anything.

 

[Currency]

Never had that happen to me, glad your getting it fixed.

I generally use the switch on my rear view mirror, but I've only seen one other ex with the same rear view mirror like mine that helps block the bright headlights from newer cars that ride me on the highway at night. Now if I just had leather and fog lights I think I would have had all the options.

 

[snoranger]

Never had that happen to me, glad your getting it fixed.

I generally use the switch on my rear view mirror, but I've only seen one other ex with the same rear view mirror like mine that helps block the bright headlights from newer cars that ride me on the highway at night. Now if I just had leather and fog lights I think I would have had all the options.

Electro-chromatic mirror (or commonly referred to as Auto-dimming). My '94 has one.

 

[MrShorty]

and the PO tried JB welding it.... that was an epic failure.

I thought about trying to epoxy the nut back together, but figured it would probably fail in some way. Either the epoxy would close off the middle so I'd end up trying to drill a hole through the epoxy for the knob to go through. Or the epoxy would "fill" in the threads (the nut broke in the threaded portion), requiring me to go over it with a die to recut the threads. In either scenario, I figured I would probably end up breaking it worse.

 

[ppbskis]

I had this same thing happen to me a couple weeks ago. For whatever reason I was standing " outside " my truck after parking it and went to shutoff the headlights and it broke.
I had just parked on the jobsite for the day and had pull the fuse to shut em off that day. Checked online to see about the replacement switch and it appeared to be a easily obtainable part, that is until I am at the parts store and switch stocked is the guts behind the panel.
Now I go to the Ford dealer and ask the counter guy what I need. He looks it up and says that the bezel or whatever it's called is orderable. I need the thing fixed now, who the heck wants to pull/ insert a fuse to operate the lights? So I go back home look at the way the actual switch needs to be to operate and just drill pilots holes in switch and dash and screw it right to the dash panel. If I paint the little sheet metal screw black it would look factory and it works perfectly.

 

[mr cribb]

Well this is headlight related.... my nut didn't break off, but the knob actually broke off in my hand tonight.... I guess I'm swapping out my switch later this morning.

 

[helmet]

I've just had mine break - and the local ford dealers stiff everyone on parts prices. they want 27$ for the part, and i have to pick it up at their store when they are open. Or, i can call a different ford dealer half way across the US, and have it shipped to my door and still save six dollars.

i'm going to call tomorrow and get the part number, i'll post it here when i get it, so its less of a wait on the phone while you have whoever you go to for yours look it up.


helmet

 

[dougjjones]

I have the same problem, the plastic "nut" on the light switch broke. I just went to the ford dealership and ordered a new piece. Earlier I was trying to remove the panel to take a look at it and was having trouble. Do I have to remove the whole dash or can I just remove part of it? Are there any good forums or links showing me what to do? This is not my truck, I borrowed it from the grandfather so I am not very familiar with it but would really like to fix it before I give it back to him. It is a 1994 ford ranger, manual transmission and 2wd. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks

 

[dougjjones]

Ok so I got it fixed. I had to go to the Ford dealership to get the part since autozone had no idea what it was. It was $9.70. The part is called a "bezel" and the part number is "E9TZ-10852-A". I am not sure if it was exactly the same part since it was kind of hard to screw it but with a little muscle I got it to work. Also on the inside of the original part it had the number 8 while the replacement had a number 7. Also the head light knob/switch thing seems a little hard to pull out and push in but, hey, it works. I was able to reach up behind the dash by unscrewing the fuse box and pushing that aside. So I didn't have to take the dash off. I was also able to pull out the switch mechanism from behind the dash with a little jiggling to remove the broken part of the original bezel. To take the knob out of the mechanism, there is a small button that was on the drivers side doorside of the mechanism. Hope this helps someone!

 

[Totorosue]

Thanks, dougjones--this helped a lot. When the same thing happened to my '94 Ford Ranger, I was getting pretty discouraged searching the internet for the right part to replace. I was lucky to find your post. Using your part number, I was able to find the "bezel" online for $13 including shipping. My old part also had the 8 inside, and the replacement had the 7. To install the part, I removed the dashboard trim by first unscrewing the ashtray and then snapping off the trim. I decided to pull the radio out, too, since it was getting hung on the gearshift when I tried to move the trim out of the way. Getting the broken piece of plastic out of the switch threads was tricky. I finally stuck a pointy screwdriver in the broken piece and unscrewed it. After that it was a piece of cake to install. I was worried that I would have your problem of the knob being hard to push in and out, but it works fine. Hooray!