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headlight switch

deamon3

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 27, 2008
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City, State
Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Eddie Bauer
Where can I buy the special headlight switch for the eddie bauer/limited models? My headlight switch isn't the same as a normal one. It's got a different connector with more wires which I can only assume is because of the automatic headlights.
 



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There are two switches, one "regular" switch, and one with the extra connectors for the "auto" dimming rear view mirror in the EB/Limited models.

You can still get the switches at the dealer or a shop that sells Motorcraft parts, or there are plenty of aftermarket options at almost any auto parts store. You just have to specify it is a EB/Limited, or that it is the switch for a model with the dimming rear view mirror.

I have also seen the switches, both Motorcraft and aftermarket, online at RockAuto and other automotive part sites.

As for the models with daytime running lights, that is usually a seperate module from the headlight switch, since the DRL module just keeps the headlights on, and the switch controls the headlights, marking lights, and taillights.
 






The reason I ask is because not only are my dome lights stuck in the on position all the time, but my headlights will flicker unless I jiggle the switch.

All my door sensors work so I'm assuming it's the headlight switch itself since I think there is no other way the dome lights could be stuck on unless the switch was broke.
 






This is interesting.

After 2 years of not working my dome lights now work fine. But my dash lights keep blowing fuses , I then made the big mistake of inserting a higher amperage fuse and rather then the fuse blowing I heard a snap and the fuse didn't blow. which means something else did. Did I basically just ruin my dash lights?
 






This is interesting.

After 2 years of not working my dome lights now work fine. But my dash lights keep blowing fuses , I then made the big mistake of inserting a higher amperage fuse and rather then the fuse blowing I heard a snap and the fuse didn't blow. which means something else did. Did I basically just ruin my dash lights?

You have a short somewhere,give me some time and I will post the circuit.The snap was something burning up,I assume you smelled smoke.Don't feel bad,I burned up an entire dash harness on a customers car doing the same sort of thing once.:rolleyes:
 






It was a very quiet snap , it sound like the fuse at first , and no there was no smoke or smell. The fuse was suppose to be 10 , but I used a 15 instead. Soon as I pulled the headlight switch I heard it.
 






check the fuse with a meter, could have blown it and it still looks good.
 






i went to napaautoparts.com and it gave me these oem numbers Headlight Switch

Product Line: Mileage Plus Electrical
Comments: w/ OEM # E7TZ-11654-A, E7TZ-11654-B, E7TZ-11654-C, F4TZ-11654-A
Per Car Qty.: 1
Compare MPE HL6663SB


Qty
Headlight Switch
Product Line: Echlin Ignition
Comments: w/ OEM # E7TZ-11654-A, E7TZ-11654-B, E7TZ-11654-C, F4TZ-11654-A
Per Car Qty.: 1
 






I got mine from a junkyard.
 












Ok after taking the dash apart and inspecting the wires , there were not any melted or burned like I feared. However , I noticed that the "illumination" wire for my radio were exposed. I'm guessing they were grounding somewhere behind the dash. They are not connected to anything so I taped them off and the other wire that were not in use.

Everything now works fine , except my headlight switch is still bad , needs to be jiggled around to get things to work. I went directly to a napa store and they actually don't have my headlight switch there. They only have the regular one for explorers w/o auto headlights. I also recently went to a junkyard looking for one but the only limited explorer they had was missing the whole dash. (had nice seats tho)

Any idea where I can get this illusive switch?
 












Seriously anyone?

I went to a pull it yard yesterday , they had dozens of first gens but only two that would have had the special switch and they were already swiped. I can't find it on ebay or even napa
 






Why not get an OEM switch? We have many forum vendors, among them Fast Parts Network (fastpartsnetwork.com) and forum member FORDSVTPARTS, who I have PM'd quite a bit getting some killer prices on Motorcraft stuff. Both of them can get you the switch you're looking for, at a fraction over dealer cost.

I would avoid used switches. Not only will they likely have the same flaky issues from wear and tear, but they are a fire hazard when they go bad. Whatever they may cost new is well worth not having to deal with an electrical fire.
 






fastpartsnetwork doesn't seem to have it.

the only place that seems to have it is a ford dealer 33 miles away for 45$. :(
 






Send a PM to FORDSVTPARTS, they can probably do a lot better on the pricing. You might even get the part number from that dealer and give it to them rather than go by vehicle, if that is indeed the correct part number.

If not, hey, you have a source.

$45 for a new switch is better than an old switch or no switch.
 






It's a lot considering my alternator cost 21$.
 






got a problem with a 92' explorer 4x4 XLT. headlights , brake lights and turn signals work. The marker lights, dash lights, and tail lights do not. fuses are all good. any ideas whats wrong? it was messing up a little while ago and i could just keep pulling the head light knob in and out and the dash lights would kick on, they don't do it any more.
 






dude make your own thread
 



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hello i was wondering how you made out with your headlight switch? I have a 94 Explorer Limited and am having the same issue! The person I got my explorer off of just replaced the switch with a reg. one and my courtesy lights don't come on and the auto dim mirror don't work. So I looked and I see there is a plug with 4 wires just hanging in there....so I need a switch as well....I tried all the yards around me and found nothing! I'm thinking about splicing wires together and trying that! I don't see why that wouldn't work if they would be wired correctly.
 






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