Heat Problem

[wdw165]

My wife drives a 1997 Explorer XLT AWD, 5.0. Recently the heater stopped working at all although the AC is fine. I thought it was a clogged heater core and back flushed it and nothing but clean water & antifreeze came out, reversed the hose and flushed in the forward direction, same result. Next, I purchased a new Motorcraft heater valve and installed it today. Seems to be working properly and there is hot water prior to the valve and after the valve going into the firewall
(checked by feeling hoses). Still no heat. (fan works properly as do the various direction of air flow-floor, both, vents etc.). Any suggestions as the next step will be greatly appreciated.

 

[koda2000]

research broken blend door.

 

[wdw165]

The car doesn't have automatic temp control. Would it still have a blend door?

 

[koda2000]

Yes, and a blend door actuator to make it open and close.

 

[wdw165]

Thanks. I watched a coupe of Youtube videos. Looks like cutting your way in certainly beats taking the car to a shop and leaving $900.00+ poorer. Plus, I think I can do the cut method and wouldn't even think of removing the dash.

 

[Hollywood57]

Thanks. I watched a coupe of Youtube videos. Looks like cutting your way in certainly beats taking the car to a shop and leaving $900.00+ poorer. Plus, I think I can do the cut method and wouldn't even think of removing the dash.

I just replaced my blend door actuator but it was not the problem. The culprit was a broken blend door. cracked at the top of the blend door shaft that connects to the actuator arm. I bought a replacement from Amazon, Dorman part # 902-211 This is for the 1997 explorer with MANUAL temp control. The dorman part has instructions on cutting a hole in the bottom of the plenum but no help in getting the old door out. It is a real PETA. Once I removed the actuator and the actuator bracket, cut the hole in the bottom of the plenum I wedged the old door up as high as it will go to the top of the plenum and used a 9" bi-metal blade to saw off the top old door shaft that sticks through the top of the plenum where the actuator bracket sits. Then I used a long screw driver to push up on the top of the plenum from the hole I cut in the bottom. WAHLAA, the old door came lose and I removed it. The new Dorman door comes with a metal upper socket already attached in the correct position so the actuator arm will line up. The problem is you have to remove this metal socket in order to install the new door. Then put the metal socket back on the new door though the top of the plenum in the same position it was in before. I used a pair of locking vise grips to hold the metal socket in my left hand and insert it into the top of plenum while using my right hand to align the new door thru the bottom hole. It took about 15 mins but finally got it. After reinstalling the actuator bracket and actuator and testing it out and all good I taped the hole with the Dorman included aluminum tape.

Good luck

 

[wdw165]

I just replaced my blend door actuator but it was not the problem. The culprit was a broken blend door. cracked at the top of the blend door shaft that connects to the actuator arm. I bought a replacement from Amazon, Dorman part # 902-211 This is for the 1997 explorer with MANUAL temp control. The dorman part has instructions on cutting a hole in the bottom of the plenum but no help in getting the old door out. It is a real PETA. Once I removed the actuator and the actuator bracket, cut the hole in the bottom of the plenum I wedged the old door up as high as it will go to the top of the plenum and used a 9" bi-metal blade to saw off the top old door shaft that sticks through the top of the plenum where the actuator bracket sits. Then I used a long screw driver to push up on the top of the plenum from the hole I cut in the bottom. WAHLAA, the old door came lose and I removed it. The new Dorman door comes with a metal upper socket already attached in the correct position so the actuator arm will line up. The problem is you have to remove this metal socket in order to install the new door. Then put the metal socket back on the new door though the top of the plenum in the same position it was in before. I used a pair of locking vise grips to hold the metal socket in my left hand and insert it into the top of plenum while using my right hand to align the new door thru the bottom hole. It took about 15 mins but finally got it. After reinstalling the actuator bracket and actuator and testing it out and all good I taped the hole with the Dorman included aluminum tape.

Good luck

Thanks. Good advice.