Heater control valve

[JAWIT]

I went for a routine oil change this past weekend and my mechanic said they added about a gallon of coolant to the overflow reservoir as it was empty and there may be a leak. I thought that was strange as I had just checked it about a week before and it was near the full hot mark like it usually is. I asked if they added Zerex G05, or the Motorcraft gold, as that is what is specified. Mechanic said they added a clear (colorless) antifreeze to it that is compatible and this is the type they always add to vehicles. Wish they had asked me before adding that coolant, as the charge was $18. I could have bought a gallon of the Zerex probably for that price.

Should I be concerned and do a complete drain and refill or is a gallon of that stuff not a big deal?

Anyways, I looked around but couldn't find any leaks. The only sign of something that may have leaked was some evidence of dried coolant deposits near the heater control valve. I figured the one on my vehicle was probably original and wouldn’t hurt to change it out since I have read about them failing and leaking. I ordered a replacement Motocraft brand ($25 on Amazon) but those damn factory hose clamps were a pain to release and slide back on the hose in order to get the old valve off. I finally managed to get the new valve installed and hose clamps slid back into place after a while and started the vehicle up, and wouldn’t you know, the lower hose started leaking. I got fed up with the lower clamp and just put on a worm gear style clamp next to the factory clamp one and that seems to have fixed the leak. I’ll keep an eye on the level. I suppose I could have it pressure tested to make sure the leak isn’t somewhere else, but I see no evidence anywhere else and no coolant smell. I checked the radiator and didn’t see leaks there either.

When the vehicle is cold, having sat overnight, should the coolant level in the reservoir be down near the bottom at the cold mark? Mine never is is that low and is always closer to the full hot, maybe an inch or so below. The mechanic had filled it up almost to the lid on the reservoir and I siphoned some out since I felt he didn’t leave me any expansion room with it filled like that.

 

[hwydave]

I can't comment on the compatibility of the universal coolant. As for the coolant level, I think it is fine. The lower line, at least for my 2009 Explorer, is "FULL WHEN COLD", thus the coolant level should be on the lower line when the truck is parked overnight.

I plan to replace my heater control valve due to a leak. With the truck has 120k miles on it, I think I'll replace the hoses as well. The debate is whether to replace the spring clamps with the worm screw clamps or not.

 

[Rick]

I plan to replace my heater control valve due to a leak. With the truck has 120k miles on it, I think I'll replace the hoses as well. The debate is whether to replace the spring clamps with the worm screw clamps or not.

If they aren't rusted there is no need. Those things are strong...

Amazon has several clamp pliers:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hose+clamp+pliers&ref=nb_sb_noss_2&tag=serious-20

 

[hwydave]

If they aren't rusted there is no need. Those things are strong...

Amazon has several clamp pliers:
Amazon.com : hose clamp pliers

Thanks, Rick. Me and "plumbing" don't get along.

Sorry, JAWIT, did not mean to hijack your thread.

 

[MotorCityFats13]

heater control valves usually only leak when the heat is on and there for problems surface in the fall.... mine was leaking and when ever i would try to trace the issue it was a warm day but when cold hit and i would turn the heat on at night the problem would go away next day when i would trouble shoot it.... its a very annoying little gizmo.... took me over a year to simply say in replacing it

 

[loooney2ns]

Common issues are the radiator leaking, and the thermostat housing on the 4.0 engines. Also, the rear heater hose on the 4.6, where it goes past the exhaust manifold. And the spring clamps can fail over time. They are only used during vehicle assembly at the plant, and sometimes on replacement hoses. Worm clamps are perfectly acceptable.

 

[2010 Eddie Bauer]

Common issues are the radiator leaking, and the thermostat housing on the 4.0 engines. Also, the rear heater hose on the 4.6, where it goes past the exhaust manifold. And the spring clamps can fail over time. They are only used during vehicle assembly at the plant, and sometimes on replacement hoses. Worm clamps are perfectly acceptable.

I will second that. Do not rely on the factory spring clamps. The screw-type clamps are best. I replaced my thermostat housing, and every single spring clamp lost tension during the next couple of months, causing coolant leaks at the end of the hoses. No more leaks since I replaced them with screw clamps.

 

[JAWIT]

@DILLARD.... I hadn't come across the all metal version and am wondering if that was for previous years. Since I have replaced it with a new Motorcraft version, all is well. And no more leaks with the screw clamps.