Heater Core access question

[jrork]

Guys, I’m stumped.

My daughters Sport started losing coolant and smelling like coolant when she ran the heater. Then it started blowing fog when you turned on the heater fan so I figured the Heater Core went out. The carpet on the passenger side is wet as well.

Well, I followed the tips for lowering the dash and can see where the heater core is but I cant for the life of me figure out how I am supposed to move the heater core box back far enough to gain access to the box cover and remove the heater core. I watched the video and it said to undo the 3 nuts in the engine compartment but that would mean I would have to remove the airconditioning unit to even access that. Please tell me that isn’t what have to do.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks very much…….john

 

[OneLever]

I do not envy you sir. A quick forum search turned up these two links:

Link 1

Link 2 (I don't know if you actually need to remove the steering column just the dash, but I've never done this.)

You can do it but you'll need some time.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Having done this particular repair three times, I have a few tips to consider.

First, I discovered that discharge and complete removal of the a/c nd blower motor is not needed. Instead, remove the front right tire and take off the wheel well splash guard. You will be able to see and access the bottom bolt and three of the nuts from this angle saving you considerable headaches. The blower motor and associated a/c lines can be moved away from the firewall 4-5 inches (after removing the plastic washer and overflow tanks). Although this is not enough space to use a deep socket (studs are long), you will have plenty of clearance to get the second set of retaining nuts off using standard flat box-end wrenches. This will save you time, $$ and keep the a/c system intact.

Second, although the write-ups and online videos are great for removing the dash there is a fastner which was not mentioned. Prior to discovery, the dash pulled back about half a foot from the windshield but was just a couple inches shy of clearing the heater core pipes from the firewall! It was horribly frustrating. The culprit was a gold colored bolt in a steel bracket on the left front side of the center console up under the dash, just to the right of the accelerator pedal.

The steering column is not removed, only unbolted from the dash and allowed to pivot down to rest on the drivers seat. Make sure the steering wheel is locked prior to this step!

A couple 6 inch ratchet extensions and a flexible socket joint will make the removal of the upper dash bolts much faster and easier. Use an old towel to protect the glass when you turn your wrench! The initial torque on a couple of the dash bolts was high. You don't want to smack the inside of the windshield with a steel tool handle.

My first time on this job was a good 12+hours. The subsequent repairs were both right about 4 hours to disassemble, 3 hours reassemble taking time not to force anything since we are dealing with a bunch of interior plastic pieces. Its not a difficult repair, only time consuming.

 

[Texan01]

I've done it 3 or 4 times now on mine, and i pull the column out completely, as its just one more pinch bolt to get it out of the way.

I also don't discharge the A/C either, I just move the suitcase back far enough to get my hand and a wrench on the top bolt, though I've left off the nuts that attach it to the firewall and use just the nuts that hold the suitcase on to hold it all together.

It's not difficult, just time consuming. First time I did it, it took me a solid 12-15 hours and now I've got it down to about 6-8 hours, longer if someone comes over to help that hasn't done it before.

If we were closer together I'd have no problem helping you do it.