For Sale Heim Steering Tie Rod Conversion

I just finished building this conversion for my truck, and decided I want to stick with the stock tie rods for now and I could use the cash for other things right now, so I have this complete conversion up for sale. Passenger's side was built last weekend and installed for 1 week of street driving, driver's side was built yesterday, installed, and then immediately taken off. Every part is brand new, never been offroad. This conversion includes:

-Camburg machined aluminum steering clevises with bolt to attach to the rack
-BTF tapered pins to fit the balljoint taper of the spindle steering arm (stock or lift spindle)
-inners are 3/4" FK heims (left hand thread) with misalignment spacers and jam nuts
-outers are 7/8" FK heims (right hand thread) with misalignment spacers and jam nuts
-tie rods are 1.25" x 0.120" tubing sleeved inside 1.5" x 0.120" tubing, with Ruffstuff Specialties bungs at either end
-hardware for inner heims is Grade 8 bolts and washers with stover nuts, everything is included but you may want to replace it as it was installed

This is a 100% direct bolt-on, stock-replacement conversion. If you can turn a wrench, you can install this. I pieced this kit together over the past 6 months or so, so I got great deals on everything individually. You cannot replicate this kit for my asking price. Asking price is $300 and I am pretty firm on that, and I will ship it.

For reference, the Camburg complete kit only replaces the inner tie rod and reuses the stock outer, and it is more expensive than my kit:
http://www.camburg.com/store/susp-sys/ford/98-12-ranger/accessories-98-12-ranger/ford-ranger-98-11-heim-steering-kit/

Unpainted

Painted

Complete Set

Clevises and Inner Heims

 

[Keeper0311]

That's a pretty awesome looking piece of gear!

 

[mounty71]

It would look great on your explorer with those light mounts you got from me too

 

[Keeper0311]

Don't have $300. On a side not, how easy is it to do the alignment.

Also love those light mounts man.

 

[mounty71]

Alignment is pretty simple because the inner heims are left hand thread and the outers are right hand thread. Loosen the jam nuts on each heim, twist the tubing to change the tie rod length, and then tighten the jam nuts. No need to unbolt the end from the spindle.

 

[DominicanX]

I have a Superlift on my truck with the coilover conversion. I'm wondering if this would fit and adjust properly. Thoughts?

 

[mounty71]

It should. Superlift lift kits use stock tie rods, correct? If so, then there shouldn't be any problem using these.

 

[DominicanX]

yeah they do, and it looks like the replacement heims, if ever needed can be had from FK? Sorry for so many questions. Any other reason you're going back to stock? I'm sure these will solve the immense stress that my 35's are putting on my stock tierods.

 

[DominicanX]

last question: Can this set up acheive the same/better angle than the stock outter tierod? Because with the superlift my angle is pretty steap on flat ground

 

[slickemhoundd]

ive only got one question. how do you tighten the inner to the rack? I know i wouldnt have to worry about bent tie rods any more

 

[slickemhoundd]

ooooh i see nevermind the question.... ill ask another, any way to put bellows on?

 

[shooterdude199]

heims have much more movement in them than a standard joint. many prerunner trucks (as you can see) use them for their strength and for the extreme angles they can go as prerunners have a lot of travel. this should be more than enough for our suspensions. no matter if you're lifted or not our trucks only pull around 4" or so of travel. so dominican, to answer your question, it wont really make the angle better, it will sit at the same angle but you will have more movement in the joint. this would be a good upgrade.

 

[mounty71]

ooooh i see nevermind the question.... ill ask another, any way to put bellows on?

What's a bellow? If you're talking about the rubber boot, the only way I can think of to use it would be to cut off the outer end of it and try to squeeze it over the clevis/inner heim.

heims have much more movement in them than a standard joint. many prerunner trucks (as you can see) use them for their strength and for the extreme angles they can go as prerunners have a lot of travel. this should be more than enough for our suspensions. no matter if you're lifted or not our trucks only pull around 4" or so of travel. so dominican, to answer your question, it wont really make the angle better, it will sit at the same angle but you will have more movement in the joint. this would be a good upgrade.

Thanks for posting. Just want to clarify that the misalignment angle depends on the size of the heim, size of the bolt, and what kind of misalignment spacers are being used. But for these particular heims and spacers, there is more than enough for this application.

And I pull about 8" of travel with stock steering.

 

[shooterdude199]

sorry to get off topic but do you run a shock hoop set up? i know ive read some sort of build thread for your truck a long time ago and i dont remember. and are you running uniball ucas?

 

[mounty71]

DominicanX, you can post a picture of your spindle/outer tie rod at ride height if you want so I can see what angle yours is at right now. But from pictures I've seen, I think it would basically be the same like shooterdude said.

And I didn't mention it in the first post but I want to be 100% clear and straightforward and honest. You can see in the 3rd picture, the left tie rod is a little bit uglier than the right one because it was cut and sleeved after it was final welded, so that one has a piece of 1" x 0.120" tubing inside the 1.25", which is inside the 1.5" haha. It is strong as all hell, all inner sleeved tubing was rosette welded as well as welded circumferentially (I think that's a word), but it was done like that because like I said, I suck at measuring and initially made it too long. That tie rod is now about 0.5" shorter than the other tie rod because, again, I suck at measuring.

They both have enough adjustment in the heims that the difference in length does not matter. I just wanted to explain that they are slightly different in length, and I have no doubts that this will work on any other explorer. If anyone would prefer, I can knock off $50 and sell the heims, clevises, pins, hardware, and spacers without the tie rods and you can make your own tie rods exactly how you want. Or if you buy this kit complete and for some reason don't have enough adjustment in one or both sides, I will refund you $50. I hope I'm not scaring anyone by saying this but I don't want anyone to think I'm a dishonest seller.

 

[mounty71]

sorry to get off topic but do you run a shock hoop set up? i know ive read some sort of build thread for your truck a long time ago and i dont remember. and are you running uniball ucas?

Not a shock hoop, just a home made upper mount made out of plate, and tabs on the lower arm for the lower mounts. No uniball uppers either, I have the Moog problem solver replaceable balljoints with the one-piece passenger upper arm. A link to my thread is in my signature where I have pictures of everything.

 

[shooterdude199]

after 12 pages i finally found it lol. i want your rearend.... i mean the deavers.... not your butt. lol

 

[mounty71]

Uh...

My plan is to rebuild my leaf springs with the money from this steering stuff.

 

[shooterdude199]

you prolly think im gay now lol trust me im not. and what do you mean rebuild? like the springs? or like are you gonna build a cage and run 14's or 16's?

 

[mounty71]

No cage any time soon, and never shocks through the floor. Re-arched, replace a couple of damaged/broken leafs, paint or whatever coating Deaver uses, and probably new bushings. Deaver is only a half hour away from my house so hopefully I can get it done in a day or two.