HELP! 2006 Ford Explorer Alternator issues

[julesverne]

Hi all! I’m hoping someone can help me. I have a 2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 that is having issues with the alternator. It’s not kicking on to charge the battery. Here are the test I have performed so far.

Battery Test 12.7 Volts
Load test Battery 11.9 Volts
Alternator B+ ( at main terminal on Alt) 12.Volts/oms got OL)

3 Plug connector (while unplugged from alternator) Black wire 4 to no Volts and no continuity on tester—got no red light. Yellow wire got 12V and passed continuity test.

Check engine charging system light is on and battery light on dash is also on.

My question is this a fusable link issue and if so where are they on the wiring harness? Or is the an Alternator or PCM issue? Or maybe the 3 plug connector is bad? I am confused on what to check next to isolate the problem.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[07EddyB]

I'm confused - why not just remove the alternator and have it tested? Most parts stores can do that?

 

[julesverne]

From what I understand the regular auto parts store tests are not always that reliable. Also, I wanted to avoid any removal if it’s not the Alt. I figure if the 3 plug wire is not testing 12 volts and failing the continuity test then it’s most likely not the Alt but a different problem like in the plug itself, a wire problem, a fuse problem or bad ground.. and maybe even the PCM. That was my line of thinking anyway. But I could be totally wrong. I thought I would check here first before yanking our the Alt.

 

[michael loibl]

I applaud u for trying your best to diagnose, but sometimes it is easier just to yank it and get it bench tested.
I got mine off in 12 minutes including disconnecting the battery when I swapped mine in November. Paid $80 with free shipping. NEW

 

[07EddyB]

I get you - I went through about the same thing a few months ago. Spent some time one night tracing wires and checking voltages and everything else. I finally just pulled it and took it to Advance - it's a quick job. Their test showed what I was seeing - the alternator was only putting out around 12 volts. New one took care of everything. Do it the easy way first.

 

[julesverne]

From what I understand the regular auto parts store tests are not always that reliable. Also, I wanted to avoid any removal if it’s not the Alt. I figure if the 3 plug wire is not testing 12 volts and failing the continuity test then it’s most likely not the Alt but a different problem like in the plug itself, a wire problem, a fuse problem or bad ground.. and maybe even the PCM. That was my line of thinking anyway. But I could be totally wrong. I thought I would check here first before yanking our the Alt.

I applaud u for trying your best to diagnose, but sometimes it is easier just to yank it and get it bench tested.
I got mine off in 12 minutes including disconnecting the battery when I swapped mine in November. Paid $80 with free shipping. NEW

I applaud u for trying your best to diagnose, but sometimes it is easier just to yank it and get it bench tested.
I got mine off in 12 minutes including disconnecting the battery when I swapped mine in November. Paid $80 with free shipping. NEW

Thanks! Your right, I’ll take it off this weekend and then take it to a parts store to get it tested. I’ll let you know what I find out. Thanks for the advice! I’m am known to be stubborn and sometimes a get on a track of thinking and won’t let it go lol!

 

[julesverne]

I get you - I went through about the same thing a few months ago. Spent some time one night tracing wires and checking voltages and everything else. I finally just pulled it and took it to Advance - it's a quick job. Their test showed what I was seeing - the alternator was only putting out around 12 volts. New one took care of everything. Do it the easy way first.

Thank ya for the assist! You both convinced me I need to go a different direction. I’ll have it checked out this weekend after pull it out.