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Help!! Explorer left me stranded

WECALLHERDORA

Active Member
Joined
April 16, 2006
Messages
50
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City, State
michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 ltd
Ok here is the story...I drove her about 40 hiway miles no problem...I dropped of a friend and shut the vehicle off for about 2-3 minutes I restarted and went to take off and it was like I wasnt getting any gas...so I turned it off and restarted it and then it was fine for about a mile or so and when I went to slow down it spit and sputtered and then died again like not getting gas...so now I am in middle of nowhere so I turn it off and take a chance getting on the hiway towards home. I drive it normal about 8 miles and then I need to slo down to exit and it dies...I try to restart but only spit and sputter and then its dead. So now It is cranking but not turning over and I can not here the fuel prime when key is in on position. I was stranded and had to have it towed home. Where should I start?!
 



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I'd check the fuel pump first. There is a thread around here somewhere on how to listen for it.
 






Do a search for this thread (Fuel pump inertia switch) it has a good picture, DeRocha and 410Fortune give great explanations of it's operation and testing.
 






If you aren't hearing your pump, then it either the pump or the fuel pump relay.
 






I have checked the inertia switch.. I actually did that while sitting along side of the road waiting for the tow truck... i read about it in my owners manual. it was pressed in. I have disconnected the positive battery cable and put my finger on each of the large boxesin the under hood fuse box and checked all fuses(sorry dont know the name of them) and feel power to each one. also notice that when connecting the cable there is a small gray box with fuel line coming out of it on drivers side that make a double click when reconnecting the positive. Also my positive cable is corroding and I have not had the chance to chnge it....could this be the whole problem ? I am thinking not but any opinions are appreciated. I really really am hoping that it is not the fuel pump. I dont think that I have enough machanical knowledge yet to do that on my own.
 












if you mean by prime the buzzing noise when key is first turned to on position, then no I do not here this noise. but if I listen very close there is a slight click about 2-3 seconds after turning the key to on position. but cant pinpoint it or am not sure what it means. I am continuing to look through threads. but now my battery is dying from trying so many times to start it.
 






also wanted to add that about 2 weeks ago i noticed my fuel gauge acting up. any time you put gas in it..even a few gallons..the gauge will read over full..when I turn off the truck overnight it will reset back to normal until putting gas in again..could this be related to my problem now?
 






If you don't hear the fuel pump "prime" when you turn the key to auxiliary, then either the fuel pump relay is bad or the fuel pump. Or you're out of gas. In all of these trucks I have heard, all the fuel pumps made the prime noise.

If it's not the fuel pump or fuel pump relay, then I have seen O2 sensors make a truck act that way. And sometimes, they did not throw a check engine light either...
 






.....dora, your "observation" of the fuel gauge "antics" isn't a good sign. The sender (info to your gage) and fuel pump powering travel thru the same connectors and it sounds like you might have a problem in the area.... maybe as simple as a loose connector..... BUT it is likely that the connector is up near the top of the fuel tank and hard to get at without dropping the tank.... ugh...:-(.... but check along the wiring path to your tank and look for bad wiring. On a side note, I do believe that the click that you are hearing 2 or 3 seconds later after switching your key to on is the fuel pump relay dropping as the GEM does this when your truck doesn't start right away to prevent "bad things" from happening...:)
 






I cant tell you how helpfull you all are. I have my battery charged up now and will begin troubleshooting tomorrow. keep throwing ideas my way!!
 






I should say that the 02 sensor Idea is important here. on occasion I will get a CEL and I have read the code as 176, it is my belief that this is running lean do to some type of sensor..having brain freeze and cant remember exactly what it is called...maybe the acting up is this sensor giving out completely....I shoulda bought a Land rover...oops did I say that out loud?!!
 






WECALLHERDORA said:
I have checked the inertia switch.. I actually did that while sitting along side of the road waiting for the tow truck... i read about it in my owners manual. it was pressed in.
Observing the Inertia switch is pushed in is step 1... step 2 is actually checking to see if the switch is getting power... You need to get a mult-meter (test light will do) positive or probe end to either switch wire and ground to well ground.. When you turn the key from off to run (don't turn all the way to start) you should see 12v (or probe light on) for 2-3 secs... If so it indicates power is being sent to the pump and a problem exists in the wiring, wire connector (@ rear of gas tank), or fuel pump itself.
 






I think my first purchase is going to be a new battery. I just went out and cranked it twice for about 3 seconds each time and the battery drained down to almost nothing....go figure
 






WECALLHERDORA said:
I should say that the 02 sensor Idea is important here. on occasion I will get a CEL and I have read the code as 176, it is my belief that this is running lean do to some type of sensor..having brain freeze and cant remember exactly what it is called...maybe the acting up is this sensor giving out completely....I shoulda bought a Land rover...oops did I say that out loud?!!

I mentioned O2 because a bad O2 will often give the *exact* running conditions/symptoms you are having.

You have 2 O2 sensors, one on each pipe (left and right). It's best to replace both of them at the same time.
 






Could you please tell me more about where these sensors are located. Also how much on average should they cost and are they something that I can replace myself. I dont have alot of mechanical knowledge but I am a quick study. I am still beaming with pride over my Belt tensioner pulley replacement, thanks to alot of help from this site, I should ad!!
 






ok........that same thing happened to me....my truck wouldnt start, i know its the relay or the pump....my buddy was sitting in the truck and i pulled the relay off and he heard the pump prime and the engine turned over without the relay, sounded nasty but it cleared up when i plugged the relay back in.....ive replaced that relay and had NO problems anymore......pull off the relay and see if the pump primes...cuz i thought it was the pump first and my buddy went and got me a replacement for 85 bucks, then it turned out to be the relay :(
but it could be wiring or your pump cuz of what you said about the fuel gauge....i think the others have you covered for info but theres my 2 cents
 






I swapped out relays and didnt get any change. The fuel pump doesnt prime. as soon as I can I am going to get under it and check the wiring to the fuel tank. I am wondering though...when you do a self check to get CEL codes, even if there is no code should you here the computer running.. iput on jumper wire to see if by some crazy chance it would through a code, even a memory code, and there was nothin. the engine light blinked for about one half second and didnt here any noise. I have done it in the past and could here the test running. is this normal?
 






.... dora.... what do you mean that your "engine light blinked". Is your engine light on when your trying to start your truck???? It should be on solid for the whole time until it starts. If it isn't, you have a problem other than your fuel pump area. Did you get your new battery and clean your cable connections????
 



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The battery replacement has to wait until payday. I have jumped it with my husbands truck. I have cleaned up the connections but the inside of the positive cable is corroded. also has to wait until payday. I spent all my money getting this hunk of junk towed home. But anyway, when i try to start it the engine light does stay on however when it is connected with jumper wire to self check connectors the light does not stay on just a quick blink and then it is gone. This may be related to the loss of power from the battery but there is enough power to run lights radio and such. I know You all think I am a total idiot, but I am doin the best I can with what I got.
 






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