Help fast - Rear Brake line leak!

[pugsy]

Just saw a puddle under the back of the Explorer this morning. The line that runs from that splitter (splits to left and right drum) on the left is leaking and pedal is mushy. I haven't run out of fluid in the resevoir so the fronts will be okay from a bleeding sense right?
As for the rear, the line that runs on the frame rail seems to be okay, just a leak on the line that goes to the driver side drum. Do you recommend I fix both lines (the left drum line and the right)?
Never done brake lines before - what has to be done to remove the old linesand once the new ones are connected? Ie. how do you bleed the system and where's the bleeder holes?
Are these lines I need to replace standard pre-bent and fit? Or will I need to do some bending?
Thanks - input fast would be great!! Hoping to fix today.

 

[fordnut71]

u can buy replacement line at canadian tire its 3/16th line u need. measure the old lenth of line u have including all the bends an buy a line thats close to it.
to bleed the line theres a small nipple on the back of the backing plate above where the line goes into it . have some 1 pump the brake peddle 3 times slowly an then open that nipple with a wrench. keep doing it untill u see all the air is expled from the system. u will need to bleed both sides in the rear to make sure all the air is gone
as for doing the line on the other side its up to u depending on how bad the line looks an if u feel the need at this time to replce it

 

[quicklook2]

only replace the line that is bad.

use reg. pliers or needle nose and break off the brake line close to the fitting.

soak with rust buster after cleaning the fitting, do that a couple of times.

than use a six point socket to remove fitting.

it will grab better than anything else.

than do what fordnut71 says to do.

 

[nitsuga]

What fittings should he be using? I know they're double flare, but are the threads metric or standard?

 

[IZwack]

Standard/SAE

 

[pugsy]

I got 2 30 inch pieces from Canadian Tire today for $10. They're already flared with the fittings on them ready to be screwed in. Not sure if metric or SAE but I'm sure the thread is standard fit. The ones I took off were the original pre-bent ones that seemed to route around the alxe for some reason (took forever to get them off with the rust!). The replacements I got are staight but I bought a cheap tube bender to curve around any spots that may interfere.
I have to still remove the fittings that are in the drums - look to be just as rusty, hopefully nothing breaks in the drum!
I also got a bleeding kit that uses a small bottle that has a magnet to stick to the frame above the bleeder screw so you can bleed them on your own. I just hope I can get the bleeder screws open :S

 

[IZwack]

The fittings on the drums (actually on the slave cylinder) is going to be a pain to remove -- they always are. If it is, you might have to replace the slave cylinder and just throw the old one away (they're relatively cheap to replace).

As for bending the steel brake line, you can bend this by hand but you have to be careful not to bent too sharply and kink it. I also bought a cheap tube bender but it was too much of a hassle so I just ended up using my hands. It helps if you have some radius to bend the line over (like a tube) -- this minimizes kinks by forcing the bend have a fixed radius.

 

[pugsy]

Ya...I'm having that feeling just looking at the rust - not sure I can get a wrench on it, may have to use pliers. By slave cylinder, you mean the piston right? Is that just as hard to remove? How does it come off - do you have to remove the drum, shoes, hardwared, etc? Does a new slave cylinder come with a new bleeder screw, cause that looks rusty too!

 

[IZwack]

How to remove slave cylinders:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/cc/cf/0900823d800bcccf/repairInfoPages.htm

Dont use pliers on those fittings, you need to cut the hard brake line as close to the fitting as possible, and use a regular box-end wrench, or a socket -- and use a 6 point wrench/socket, not 12 point.

Yes the new slave cylinder should come with new bleeder screw.

 

[quicklook2]

Ya...I'm having that feeling just looking at the rust - not sure I can get a wrench on it, may have to use pliers. By slave cylinder, you mean the piston right? Is that just as hard to remove? How does it come off - do you have to remove the drum, shoes, hardwared, etc? Does a new slave cylinder come with a new bleeder screw, cause that looks rusty too!

read my earlier post.

i already told you how to do this.

 

[pugsy]

Ya...I read that. But my fear is that the fitting is so rusted, that there's no longer a hex head on it to use a socket!!! If there is, prolly won't sustain the torque and strip.

 

[north/west,ex]

If you don't have a 6 point socket/boxend the right size vise grip pliers set very tight the first time work well.The 6 or 8 inch with flat jaws seem to slip the least on small stuff like this.That being said you will probably have more fun/trouble with the bleeder because it's smaller.Try to use firm EVEN pressure to break it loose,if you jerk or persuade it with a hammer your going to Crappytire for a new cylinder.

 

[pugsy]

What size wrench is the bleeder screw? How much does it need to be unscrewed to be able to bleed the line?
I'm going to give it a try tonight, it's had a couple days for the PB Blaster to settle in - hoping that works :-/

 

[quicklook2]

most of the bleeder screws are 1/8" but not always.

use a six point socket.

first soak, then break them loose, when bleeding only have to open a very small amount.

 

[north/west,ex]

the bleeder screws threads are 1/8 but the wrench size is 5/16 I think. you only need to loosen it about a 1\4 turn for the fluid to run free but because it's old you may have to remove it and clean the hole in the center with a small drill bit or wire for things to work best.

 

[quicklook2]

oops i meant 3/8 for the wrench size on the bleeder.

since this post started i did 2 vehicles, 2 brake lines in each.

i just get a whole wrench/tool set and go at her.

rip out the old go to parts store and buy/bend the lines/fittings and put in the new.

rusted brake lines are aggravating to do but if you realize you may have to buy more parts than you thought you are still saving a whole lot of money off what it would cost if someone was doing them for you.

 

[north/west,ex]

I couldn't agree more
if you do have to change a cylinder only take one side apart at a time so you can see how the springs go when you reasemble things.

 

[pugsy]

ok...where to go from here....
I got the fitting out of the passenger drum, but the bleeder screw is stuck. Can't get either out of the driver drum. How can I get these out? The slave cylinders look okay, but can you get the slaves out without removing the bleeder screw or line fitting ie. put in a new slave with new fittings?
The drums are rotted out, the shoes are almost worn, and all the springs and hardware are rusty inside.
This is what I want to do:
- replace shoes and drums
- new hardware kit
- salvage the backing plates, they're good still
- new slave cylinders if i can't get the old pieces out.
Am I missing anything?
How do you get the slave cylinders out once the shoes are removed?? Will this be rusted on too???
Gee I hate rust :-(

 

[colindo94]

I believe there are two bolts that go threw the backing plate to hold the slave cylinders in. Just take out the bolts and the cylinder should come right out.

 

[pugsy]

I just bought a screw extractor - going to see if I can use it to remove the old fitting and bleeder screws and salvage the slaves, then just replace the bleeder screws with new ones. There's no leaks in the slaves and the backing plates are ok.
Still going to put on new shoes and hardware with new drums though. Dreading taking it all apart!
Any advice will me much appreciated!!
Thanks to all for your help!