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Help me figure this one out

SCMark

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Anderson, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997XLT
Symptons:
1. Clatter when starting cold then settles down when the oil pressure gets up. (Sound like the timing chain rattle. They were replaced about 18 months ago 15k miles)

2. When the engine warms up I get a knocking that sounds more substantial than a lifter, but does not have the frequency of a rod knock. The timing of this knock is more in line with a valve. Until the engine warms up the engine sounds normal.

The engine is a 4.0 SOHC. I am using a Wix oil filter, and 10-W30 synthetic oil.

I have read some posts that mention using the Motorcraft filter for the anti drain back feature, and I am considering using the Motorcraft to see if it will help.

Any ideas?
 
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iwannabamedic

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the oil is worth the try, sounds like a main is going bad
 
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yavapaires

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the oil is worth the try, sounds like a main is going bad
Rods usually rattle under no load, when you let off the throttle, mains will knock under load. SOHC engines have no lifters, so the noise will be in the top of the heads if it is a valve train noise.
 
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SCMark

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Rods usually rattle under no load, when you let off the throttle, mains will knock under load. SOHC engines have no lifters, so the noise will be in the top of the heads if it is a valve train noise.

The knock/tap is pretty consistant under load or not. One suggestion I got from a freind is a "lifter not pumping up". This freind did not know about the 4.0 v6 having lash adjusters instead of lifters. The effect is the same from what I understand. I am trying to determine what it is, and hopefully not have to pull the engine to fix it.
 
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koda2000

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my '01 4.0 sohc exhibits the same noise on start-up, but it quickly goes away. i'm thinking it might be the hydraulic cam chain tensioner on the driver's side. using motorcraft oil filter and 10w30 oil. 130K

anyone agree/disagree???
 
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SCMark

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1997XLT
my '01 4.0 sohc exhibits the same noise on start-up, but it quickly goes away. i'm thinking it might be the hydraulic cam chain tensioner on the driver's side. using motorcraft oil filter and 10w30 oil. 130K

anyone agree/disagree???

Do you get any other knocks/rattles or any sounds when warmed up?

I am leaning towards the lash adjuster, but want some degree of confidence. I guess I could pull the valve cover and take a look.
 
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emac2001

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1995 explorer sport
my '01 4.0 sohc exhibits the same noise on start-up, but it quickly goes away. i'm thinking it might be the hydraulic cam chain tensioner on the driver's side. using motorcraft oil filter and 10w30 oil. 130K

anyone agree/disagree???

beware of the timing chain guides! had an 01 ranger with 4.0. sent both chains through valve covers! 0w oil will help prolong your engine. just be vigurous with 2500 mile oil changes!!
 
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koda2000

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i don't think you need to pull the valve cover to get at the hydraulic/spring tensioner. i think it's under a large cap/bolt under the throttle body. i read something about it once. i'm searching posts for it now.

and no other noises to speak of. i can't find the thread/pics i'm looking for re the hyd tensioner. maybe someone else can shed some light on this.
 
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SCMark

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i don't think you need to pull the valve cover to get at the hydraulic/spring tensioner. i think it's under a large cap/bolt under the throttle body. i read something about it once. i'm searching posts for it now.

and no other noises to speak of. i can't find the thread/pics i'm looking for re the hyd tensioner. maybe someone else can shed some light on this.

I may not have made it clear. I was talking about the lash adjusters for the rocker arms. I had the engine overhauled 15k miles ago, and the timing chain tensioners were replaced. I am guessing the initial rattle may be the timing chain tensioners being slack before the oil pressure gets up. The thing I am trying to really pin down is the light knocking after the engine warms up.
 
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SCMark

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On a recommendation from a former Ford dealer tech I am replacing the hydraulic chain tensioners. The issue I have now that we are in to the job is how to remove the plug for the oil galley plug to replace the volume reduction plug. The instructions for the OOM12 kit say to use a Torx T-30 bit which doesn't fit well (seems small, and the T-40 is too large). What we have now is the plug is buggered, and will be a bear to get out. The question is: is the volume reduction plug in the kit a replacement, or a new item to add? If it is a replacement does it really need to be changed? If is new and needs to go in what is the best way to get the buggered oil galley plug out? The kit comes with a new plug so the destruction of the existing one is not a big deal, but I don't want to damage anything else if I can help it.
 
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