Help me trick autolamp to produce DRL, need to pass inspection!

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Hey guys,

so a long time ago I'd installed one piece CCFL front headlights with HID low beams. My truck is a 2000 limited that has the auto lamp option, so that the headlights automatically come on when the vehicle senses that its dark out.

My problem is because HID's do not come on at anything other than full power, I effectively have had no daytime running lights for a while. I must've squeaked by the inspection in previous years, but this year they noticed and I have to address the issue.

I would think that I could just cover up the light sensor, on the back of the rear view mirror, or the one on the passenger side of the dash by the windshield, and this would simulate darkness outside and always power up my low beams whenever I start the truck. However, when I cover both with electrical tape, it's not working!

Can anyone give me any help on how to trick these sensors so that my headlights at least produce the appearance of DRL's so that I can pass inspection?

Any help appreciated, thanks

Greg

 

[Flash]

What about installing an LED in the light housing to simulate the DRL?
I don't know how you'd wire it up, I know nothing about DRLs.

 

[mbushnell]

Does the DRL have to be in the Headlight housing in Canada to be legal?
When I had my 2012 Escape, I installed a set of Phillips DRL's in the lower grill opening. This way they would blend into the front of the vehicle when off. Would this satisfy Transport Canada (or whoever regulates vehicles in Canada)?
They are a simple installation, 3 wires to connect. One to a ground, 1 to the positive terminal of the battery, & 1 to one of the parking light leads, right behind the parking light bulb.
Set up this way, They will come on when the ignition is on, but will shut down when the controller senses that the parking lights are on, so they will not be on with the headlights (or parking lights).
I did this because I wanted DRL's on it, yet being in NJ, my Escape was built for the U.S. market, so no DRL. None of the Ford dealers in my area would turn them on, saying that a module was required, even though everything that I read on the forums was saying that the DRL's could be activated by a programing change by the dealer.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

I'd think it would be easier to find a way to trick the photoelectric sensors to think it's dark out. Maybe I haven't covered the right ones? I found one in the drivers side of the rear view mirror that faces the windshield, and one on the passenger side top of the dash, at the front near the windshield vent. Am I doing something wrong?

 

[Flash]

I don't know if I'm completely missing the point here but couldn't you rig up LEDs that come on with the ignition?

 

[mbushnell]

I'd think it would be easier to find a way to trick the photoelectric sensors to think it's dark out. Maybe I haven't covered the right ones? I found one in the drivers side of the rear view mirror that faces the windshield, and one on the passenger side top of the dash, at the front near the windshield vent. Am I doing something wrong?

The thing is, DRL's normally run at a lower percentage of full voltage, for increased bulb life.
Tricking the photo sensors would mean the the headlights are on at full voltage & have a shorter life.
Mark

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

That's fine with me I just need to figure out if I've missed a sensor in trying to do this. Have I found the right ones at least?

 

[CDW6212R]

I covered the sensor of my 98 Mountaineer many years ago, and the lights come on virtually 100% of the time. It'd been so long I cannot remember if the dash sensor had anything to do with it.

I know I covered the mirror sensor, and I think that did it. I used black RTV though, which I'm sure has got a good grip of that little pocket, tough to remove.

I like headlights on almost always, it's safer to be sure people see you.

Here's another idea you could use, or add. For my mail truck I used the oil pressure switch(it's an ON/OFF switch from 98+(smaller sensor)), to feed the auto lamp circuit. That way my headlights only come on when the engine has oil pressure, not the instant you turn the key on(takes power from the starter).


BTW, I just noticed your truck and the wheels. What offset do those 20x9's have?
I have a set of used 17x9's I'm going to have refinished etc, and they have a good offset I was hunting for, 16mm. It has been hard to find a likeable wheel for me, with less offset than 30mm or so. I'm going to have to add a flare to the front for 275/55 tires, but hopefully the back will be okay as it is.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

KMC Hoss 20x9, -12 if memory serves correct. Extensive trimming of the driver side inner fender was required to prevent rubbing.

 

[CDW6212R]

KMC Hoss 20x9, +18 if memory serves correct. Extensive trimming of the driver side inner fender was required to prevent rubbing.

Thanks, if those are 18mm then that can help me know how the tires might fit, before I get them. I have to find a wheel restoration/rebuild place to work on the stud holes and seats before I can mount any tires.

Those 265/50/20's should be about 30.5" tall, the same as the first 18's I had, 265/60/18 tires. My current avatar still has those tires on it. Those rubbed more on the inner fender at the top where the plastic fender liner protrudes down. The big tires always rub the anti-sway bar, but that's alright.

I'm aiming at a 29" tire this next time, the 275mm width is what I'm after the most. With a 16mm offset my 17x9" rims looked like a good fit in front, but for a need for a little fender flare. I'm looking for the smaller fender flares from some late 90's Explorers, I think it's a normal or XLT trim item. Hopefully just the front needs them, the back already are inboard too much stock, near 2" for the typical 7" rim.

I'll look through your posts for more pictures of those 20x9" wheels, I think that offset and width is close to ideal for a wide tire on the 2nd gen Explorers.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Appreciate that, I spent a great deal of time laboring over, and saving for the wheels I wanted that I felt would look and perform best. They fill the wheel arches much better, and give it a slightly wider and more aggressive stance in my opinion. Looks great from the rear angle too. The offset, smaller sidewall height, width, and accompanying suspension upgrades have done wonders for cornering, and handling otherwise. Poly bushings highly recommended for your control arm sets, sway bar links, and sway bar frame bushings. Before I had done that I used to go through ball joints a little more often than I would've liked. I have about 45,000 miles on those nitro tires and there's still tons of tread left. There are some further pics in my registry.

 

[1995E]

Go to the dealer and have them enable the ambers as DRLs in module programming.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

I have to correct myself the back spacing is -12, I always get the positive and negative values backwards my mistake, edited the original post as well.