HELP!!! no audio after install | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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HELP!!! no audio after install

residue

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August 29, 2004
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City, State
nuc
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995
i just installed a pioneer deh-p4600mp into my girl's explorer as a surprise and now i don’t get audio. the hu lights up, it's "plays" the cd's and powers up fine but there's no audio output. what's wrong, umm i bought the harness and color connected everything but nada? what did i do wrong, i could understand 1 speaker not working due to a bad connection but everyone of them?
 



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i thinking one of ur harnesses is bad so the corrected wires do not match up with the right speaker wires. Only other thing i can think of is that u bought the wrong harness that goes into ur head unit? im really at a loss, this has never happened to me
 






One other thought...have you checked all the settings on the HU? With all the advances, there might be a setting that has the speakers off?
 






residue said:
i bought the harness and color connected everything but nada?
If her Explorer has a factory external amp (premium sound), you will need to get an integrator to integrate the factory amp with the new HU (expensive way) or get the amp bypass wiring harness (cheaper way and better way). The amp bypass harness is the one in the picture on the far left that has a connector on both ends. The factory external amp will be located in the cargo area, near the passenger-side wheelwell, behind the plastic panel.
 

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Thanks a lot man, you guys really helped me out, I ordered a metra (70-5513) from crutchfield.com Quick question about the install.

It is just simple as plugging in the bypass? Do I need to run any additional wiring? The HU is already installed and is receiving power? This is all I need to do right? is it a 2 minute job?
 






The hardest part is getting to the factory amp. You have to remove the panel in the cargo area on the passenger side. Just above the wheel well you'll find the amp. Just disconnect the proper side from the amp, splice in the new harness, then remove the other connector from the amp, and connect with the new harness.
You can splice in the new harness using solderless connectors (crimp style) or you can solder them & use shrink tube.
It's gonna take more than 2 minutes, but should be less than an hour.
Good luck man!
 






The connectors on the ends of the bypass harness are different from one another and will only go one way. This is because the input side of the factory amp connector has the power wire to the amp but the output side only has the speaker-out wires. It IS as simple as disconnecting the two connectors from the amp and plugging the wiring bypass harness into them.

Like Ru Dawg said, though, the hardest part will be getting to it. In addition to the press-pins around the side window, you will have to pull back the carpet from the trim panel and remove three or four screws that go into the floorboard, remove the seat belt hanger (T-50 Torx bit), remove the two phillips screws from the rear side door scuff plate, and remove the floor scuff plate that goes across the back edge of the carpet. All of this should allow you to easily fold the panel back enough to easily access the amp. To completely remove the panel, you also will have to remove the coat hook above the rear passenger door and the passenger door scuff plate.

Good luck
 

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Whoops! My bad, I misread Gimp's post, thought I read the bypass was the one on the right, that's why I said to splice it in...
So once you get to it, it should only take 2 minutes to bypass it!
 






even with a 4 door? she has a 4 door xlt... last night in order to see what it will undertake I removed the side window, I think the amp right there. Damn I was hoping to this tonight at 8pm but I’ll need sunlight and an hour wont I.
 






lol thats one hell of a suprise
 






yea i had the same problem. the amp bypass will definatly fix it.
 






Gimp said:
The connectors on the ends of the bypass harness are different from one another and will only go one way. This is because the input side of the factory amp connector has the power wire to the amp but the output side only has the speaker-out wires. It IS as simple as disconnecting the two connectors from the amp and plugging the wiring bypass harness into them.

Like Ru Dawg said, though, the hardest part will be getting to it. In addition to the press-pins around the side window, you will have to pull back the carpet from the trim panel and remove three or four screws that go into the floorboard, remove the seat belt hanger (T-50 Torx bit), remove the two phillips screws from the rear side door scuff plate, and remove the floor scuff plate that goes across the back edge of the carpet. All of this should allow you to easily fold the panel back enough to easily access the amp. To completely remove the panel, you also will have to remove the coat hook above the rear passenger door and the passenger door scuff plate.

Good luck

man if the image is how your supposed to do it im really mad... the stereo shop told me i had to bypass the amp with the bypass wire, and cut the other end off and use an aftermarket amp to power the speakers otherwise i wont get sound...

next time i need something done ill learn it myself... or find someone thats done it before
 






of course they told you that. then you can spend more money at their shop
 






yeah but the thing is... the person that does sales and the installer (which is who told me this) dont comunicate unless its to do an install, or an instalation product is sold.

this is at the place i go to (i know the sales people well, not the installers) other places are probably different


*edit* they knew i had the equipment already, when it comes to equipment i usually buy it elsewhere
 






well in that case i guess the installer was just talking out his a$$ (it's should still be more money spent on labor adding an amp than bypassing the factory amp)
 






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