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ZONDERIX

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Hi all
I don't if the is the same or not but here's what has happened to me yesterday

So I had a mechanic look at my truck for another issue and he tried to jump or reset the computer with a jump wire for the positive to the negative battery cable so he told me,
now when I drove it home the truck shut off will not restart and have dashes in the odometer and the temperature gauge on the gauge cluster.
The Explorer won't start won't even turn over, the keys(chiped) is in the Run position and the OBD2 will not connect to the PCM or I can't figure out if this has a ECM or not. Did I lose my computer or my key not connecting. Orsomething else
 


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TechGuru

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Check fuses and relays and PCM Power Diode. Your PCM is not getting power.

Check everything marked with a red dot: You'll need a multi-meter to test the diode. I would test the relay by removing and inserting it with the key on to hear/feel for the click.

20kynvr.jpg


Pahrump? Do you know Art Bell?
 




ZONDERIX

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Thank you for replying
Yes, I've checked everything single relay under hood and ever fuse under hood and dash.
It acting like no power to pcm. I got power to key and obd2 port but the little screen with the air temp and odometer is reading only dashes. All though compass still works as well as the games.
With that said I can not get any code because obd2 not connecting to pcm.
I have radio and charging ports. No cig on this Explorer. Also, Windows and locks work still.
 




ZONDERIX

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Yes I have heard of Art Bell and driven by his house. But never met him. Even listen to midnight in the desert.
 




ZONDERIX

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Update so with a lot of test with multimeter I have found out that fuse F1. 37 through F1. 41 also fuses F1. 42,F1.43,F1.45and F1.46 all have in complete circuit. Only half of it reading at around 12 volts have yet to check diode.
So I notice fuse F1. 44 is ok
FUSE F1. 41 Woukd blow everything I turn key to run to perform tests.
So, I pulled fuse F1. 41. Then I use a jump wire to link fuse F1. 41 bay no volt side to the positive side of the battery and got power back to the PCM and dash with working odometer an temp back to normal (when it's jumped). so when turned the key to start and it started. So, it ran but would turn off till I disconnect battery. Then back to normal symptoms as in my first post.

Also I had no codes and notice the overdrive light was now flashing.

So now I'm going to go and look for a shortage switch or bare wires that a grounding out. Does this sound like the right direction
Any tips on this would be helpful. Why would I lose constant power to one side of those fuses. Relay tested ok
 




ZONDERIX

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, why can't have photos to get posted on here.. So I can share multimeter voltage readings
 




TechGuru

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No need to post voltages, you're supposed to be checking fuses with the continuity test of the meter not the voltage tester. Same goes for the diode, remove it and put it on the meter, it should only beep one way and not in reverse.

So you're saying Fuse 41 is blown and replacements blow?

Or are you saying Fuse 41 is getting no power when the key is on? (Fuse 41 would only receive power when the key is on)

You may also want to check the Ignition Relay, I forgot to put a red dot on that one.

2euq4p1.jpg


jieyd0.jpg
 




ZONDERIX

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Yes that's correct #41 is blowing everytime you turn key on
 




ZONDERIX

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I will check the ignition relay and diode in morning post. And ty for help thus far
 




TechGuru

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Yes that's correct #41 is blowing every-time you turn key on

I'm going to take a wild guess and say a oxygen sensor heater is shorted out...which one I have no idea. Short of wasting 4 fuses disconnecting one of them at a time. I would at least see if a fuse still blows with all 4 disconnected (just don't get the wires mixed up).

P.S. Look for the obvious first, like O2 sensor wires melted to the exhaust...
 








ZONDERIX

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That's it!!!!! O2 where grounded out, disconnect all 4 and it fired up no blown fuses.
Now the hunt is on
 




TechGuru

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That's it!!!!! O2 where grounded out, disconnect all 4 and it fired up no blown fuses.
Now the hunt is on

Well, waste one more fuse and plug them back in one by one and see which one blows it then replace that O2 sensor, technically it is best for them to be replaced as a set.

They are all around $34 each. Different models for different positions.

30a7vgx.jpg
 




ZONDERIX

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It was a grounded wire on the back of the motor on the right hand side. I pull it off and taped it up all fixed ty
 




96firephoenix

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Bump because I"ve checked everything in this thread and still have the "------.-" odometer.

Kinda lost for what might be wrong.
 




ZONDERIX

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Bump because I"ve checked everything in this thread and still have the "------.-" odometer.

Kinda lost for what might be wrong.

Hi I don't know what you have tried yet,
So are you blowing fuse #41 in fuse panel under the hood?
Have you thoroughly check the wiring to your front two o2 sensor?
And the back two o2 especially the wire that goes over the transmission?
Have you checked all your ground wire for connectivity that clean and tight?
Check the positive cable wire that goes down to the states and goes over the rack and pinion across under the radiator near the oil filter drain tends to rub bare.
Although wiring tends to rub bare also.
Have you check to see if u have power to both sides of fuse#41?
Have disconnected battery?
Also what year ur X and Motor?
 




96firephoenix

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Hi I don't know what you have tried yet,
So are you blowing fuse #41 in fuse panel under the hood? That fuse is not blowing. I don't have any blown fuses, but I also didn't have my multimeter (d'oh!) so I didn't do a continuity check, just a visual check.
Have you thoroughly check the wiring to your front two o2 sensor? Apparently not as thoroughly as I thought... I'll give it another check. I did unplug all 4 O2 sensors, to no avail.
And the back two o2 especially the wire that goes over the transmission? Did not check the wiring there.
Have you checked all your ground wire for connectivity that clean and tight? I thought so... I'll check again.
Have you check to see if u have power to both sides of fuse#41? That I did not check.
Have disconnected battery? Yes
Also what year ur X and Motor? 2002 4.0V6

I made another thread, and @TechGuru pointed me here.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...oblems-no-crank-and-odd-dash-feedback.462992/

Sooo... I got my engine replacement all buttoned up, and was ready to do the break-in dry motoring on the engine so that the oil pump is primed - crank with the sparkplugs unplugged from the ignition module for a couple minutes.

Trouble is, no crank. Turn the key, and the relays in the dash click up just fine, but no action in the under-hood relays, even on a jumpstart.

The dash is also acting strangely.
  • First off, my odometer is reading all blank lines. It had around 130K on it, but it now reads "------.-"
  • The Check Gages, Service Engine, ABS, Door Ajar, and Airbag lights stay on after the initial christmas tree dies off. And then after I turn the ignition off and remove the key. Only thing that brought it down last night was unhooking the battery.
    • ABS, Door Ajar and Airbag were on for unrelated faults before the engine, so I'm not worried about that aspect.
  • The radio did not come on when I turned the ignition to On. it was delayed about 20 seconds.
Potentially useful background info:
  • the car sat for over a year with the battery unhooked.
  • I'd had the battery on a trickle charge for 36 hours before putting it back in
  • I am not 100% certain that I tightened the bolts that secure the PCM connectors, but I know I put them in the slot.
  • I added an electric fan conversion kit while I was in there. The instructions asked for a tap off of an ignition-switched power source. I went into the power distribution box looking for unused switched power, and tapped the blade in box #31, since it looked to be switched on the wiring diagrams but I'll admit I'm not 100% certain.
  • I have unhooked the battery again to prevent parasitic drain and reduce risk of damage.
I'm not able to get hands-on with the car until Thursday, so I'm going to need some arm-chair quarterbacking:
  • First steps that I'm going to do: Check the connections, take the battery to get tested, remove the tap on fuse slot #31and try to crank the engine.
  • I'm interested if anyone has thoughts of next steps if I'm still at a no-crank scenario after those steps.
 




ZONDERIX

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Okay I updated my post and there's a couple things you didn't see so double check my other post to you but I'll tell you here anyways.
Check out that positive cable to the starter it crosses underneath the oil drain plastic thing which tense of rubble cut into the wires and a ground out it also goes over the rack and pinion on the meet the radiator over to the starter check those wires out.
Also on YouTube there's a link on how to test see if you got power to you PCM
 




ZONDERIX

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Also check and see if you have power to both sides of the fuses I like to know if you have 12 volts or around 11 volts. Because if u only have power to 1 side of the fuse I have a tip to jump start it and idea on what might be going on
 


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96firephoenix

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Check the positive cable wire that goes down to the states and goes over the rack and pinion across under the radiator near the oil filter drain tends to rub bare.
Although wiring tends to rub bare also.

I think this is a difference between V6 and V8 models - the Starter is on the opposite side of the block from the oil filter on the V6, and the wires for the starter aren't anywhere near the radiator.

I'll double-check the wiring to the starter anyway, just to be safe though.

As far as having power on both sides of the fuse, you mean with the fuse in place, correct?
 




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