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HELP Tons of codes and Battery not keeping charge 2016 Explorer XLT

Diveshard

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Hi everyone.
Yesterday when starting my car a check engine came on and read it with my blue driver odb reader this is what I got.

1. B115E-08
Video Encoder Bus Signal Erratic Message Failures: Bus Signal / Message Failure


I cleared the code thinking this was some sort of misfire but this morning trying to remote start my car there was no juice in my battery. I boosted the car and ran another scan and now have all these codes. I suspect my battery will be dead in the morning. Anyone experience this situation? thanks, Fred

----Pending Trouble Codes Scan Report----
1 Pending Trouble Codes Trouble Codes:
1. P06B8
Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory (NVRAM) Error

----Generic Electronic Module Codes Scan Report----
2 Generic Electronic Module Trouble Codes:
1. B115E-08
Video Encoder Bus Signal Erratic Message Failures: Bus Signal / Message Failure
2. B1438-03
Wiper select switch circuit failure: FM (Frequency Modulated) / PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) Failure
----Accessory Protocol Interface Module Codes Scan Report----
1 Accessory Protocol Interface Module Trouble Codes:
1. U3003-16
Battery Voltage: Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
----Powertrain Control Module Codes Scan Report----
1 Powertrain Control Module Trouble Codes:
1. P06B8-00
 


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VCFP153

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I suspect the battery itself may be the issue.
 




Diveshard

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I've read it around as well. If that is the case I would be very happy.
 








thefranchise713

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If the battery tested OK (and keep in mind that batteries as of late seem to have a fairly high failure rate), you're looking at a parasitic draw. Are you leaving anything plugged in the 12v powerpoints? Are there any aftermarket accessories that are hardwired in?

Had you not tested the battery, I'd also have faulted the battery itself as bad.
 




Diveshard

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Hi, no nothing is plugged in. Started yesterday with no changes to the car on my part.
 




corkey

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low voltage causes a lot of problems like this,, check the alternator next,, the Explorer would run off the battery for a bit till the voltage dropped , than the computer starts eliminating systems to keep the engine computer alive, then when it runs out it will stall the engine ,

alternator is the next step,,
 












KayGee

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If you're confident the battery is still good and there aren't any other issues, you can try clearing the codes, then driving it for a while to see if they return.

P06B8-00 could mean anything from a bad PCM, to open or shorted connection, or battery related (voltage or bad ground).

Have you had any issues with your back up cam or has it been replaced before? Maybe check camera to see if connections are corroded or shorted?

Maybe check the battery current sensor also just to make sure it is okay. And get a complete charging system check, not just battery. (Most auto parts places and walmart will do battery/charging system checks for free - maybe try somewhere other than CT before the dealer.)
 




Diveshard

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EUREKA THEY FOUND THE CULPRIT!!!
One of the rear view camera connectors was totally corroded. Replacing it would be $900 but they will remove the connector and attach the ends directly and sauder it.
 




VCFP153

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EUREKA THEY FOUND THE CULPRIT!!!
One of the rear view camera connectors was totally corroded. Replacing it would be $900 but they will remove the connector and attach the ends directly and sauder it.

Then one wonders how it could get "totally corroded" in a relatively new car. Especially since that's not a connector that's exposed to much of anything...
 




Diveshard

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Left the dealer and five minutes later check engine turns on
P2195 CODE DEFINITION:
• O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1
Im back at the dealership. SAGA continues.
 




ljcorby

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Maybe it's a lemon....just sayin.....
 












Mlarv5

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Look for a dirty corroded Ground. I would check the connectors coming from the O2 Senors and make sure Mice have not gotten into them also.
 




KayGee

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Then one wonders how it could get "totally corroded" in a relatively new car. Especially since that's not a connector that's exposed to much of anything...
Doesn't take much if it isn't a sealed connector. Also, it's not like the hatch is "sealed". Water can get in through the license/camera/trim and exit through the flaps at the bottom of the hatch.
 




peterk9

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......... Water can get in through the license/camera/trim and exit through the flaps at the bottom of the hatch.
Unless they have been sealed under the carbon monoxide 'fix'.

Peter
 


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VCFP153

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Doesn't take much if it isn't a sealed connector. Also, it's not like the hatch is "sealed". Water can get in through the license/camera/trim and exit through the flaps at the bottom of the hatch.

I suppose anything is possible. Still, I wouldn't expect that to be the first connector to start corroding.
 




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