Help! Transmission/OD light on after solenoid block replacement | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Help! Transmission/OD light on after solenoid block replacement

mdisalvo

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 26, 2010
Messages
113
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4
City, State
SoCal
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Eddie Bauer Explorer
I'm not sure what to do, I tried replacing my solenoid block and now its worse than before. Everything was going smoothly until I set my new torque wrench to 71 lbs and started tightening the new solenoid block screws. I kept tightening waiting for the click in the wrench and it just never happened. I'm certain I overtightened them as two of them started to strip, thats when I backed off. Being the idiot I am, I moved on hoping this wouldn't affect anything :thumbdwn:. I put the pan back on and refilled it with fluid, which was the messiest job ever. I will never do this again. Extremely messy job and the injection gun that I used from autozone was a pile of garbage.

I put in just as much fluid as I got out of the transmission (about 5 quarts) and when I started the car the transmission light and OD light came on. The car doesn't have the delay into reverse anymore, but it shifts into reverse abnormally hard. Also, I have to get the engine revving abnormally high to get it moving forward, although it shifts well once up to speed.

I'm probably just going to take it to a shop and pay for them to remove the pan and loosen the solenoid bolts and do the refill, that was just torture. I thought I would see what you guys thought first though, could it be something else? Please say I didn't just ruin my transmission, I'm afraid of taking it to the shop and getting stuck with a huge bill...
 



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I'm not sure what to do, I tried replacing my solenoid block and now its worse than before. Everything was going smoothly until I set my new torque wrench to 71 lbs and started tightening the new solenoid block screws. I kept tightening waiting for the click in the wrench and it just never happened. I'm certain I overtightened them as two of them started to strip, thats when I backed off. Being the idiot I am, I moved on hoping this wouldn't affect anything :thumbdwn:. I put the pan back on and refilled it with fluid, which was the messiest job ever. I will never do this again. Extremely messy job and the injection gun that I used from autozone was a pile of garbage.

I put in just as much fluid as I got out of the transmission (about 5 quarts) and when I started the car the transmission light and OD light came on. The car doesn't have the delay into reverse anymore, but it shifts into reverse abnormally hard. Also, I have to get the engine revving abnormally high to get it moving forward, although it shifts well once up to speed.

I'm probably just going to take it to a shop and pay for them to remove the pan and loosen the solenoid bolts and do the refill, that was just torture. I thought I would see what you guys thought first though, could it be something else? Please say I didn't just ruin my transmission, I'm afraid of taking it to the shop and getting stuck with a huge bill...

I have a 2004, replaced the solenoid block, light quit flashing, everything works. Appreciate your frustration, but face it, sounds like YOU fu**ed up, not the transmission. So, why not save a lot of bucks, since you already KNOW what's involved, drop the pan, remove the solenoid module (to relieve excessive stress on the valve body, which I hope you did not also OVERTIGHTEN). Get new screws, put it back together with REALISTIC tightening, forget the torque wrench, they're SMALL screws, ya got "feel" for that, right?

Refill the transmission through the FILL-HOLE provided on the right-rear side of the case, above the upper lip of the oil pan, there is a removable plug there. Use an oil squirt-can with a spout, or some such contrivance, you don't need a fancy filling kit.

If you tackle it, let us know about the result. we have ALL had to go back and "re-do" especially in the learning stages. Discouraged gets you nothing. imp
 






Now that you know what it takes, you will be in and out in a fraction of what it took the first time. Make sure you have the correct torque specs, and check all the bolts while you're in there. It wont shift right if you are low on fluid.
 






Thanks for the advice, I'm going to try again today. I know I messed it up, I was just really frustrated last night so I was beating around the bush about that. I tried calling the ford parts dept to see if they had the solenoid pack screws, but I don't think they're opened today. I will also refill through the refill hole this time, that should make it much cleaner and easier. I'll post my progress later on. Thanks again.
 






I got everything taken apart and put back together the way it should have been. As you guys said, it only took a fraction of the time, I was more efficient every step of the way. The solenoid block screws weren't stripped too bad, so I was able to remove them all, remove the block and then put it back on, this time with a lot less pressure. I put the pan back on, refilled it and then let the excess drain out according to the directions. When I reconnected the battery I got the same results as before. OD light is still flashing and "check transmission" are still coming on and it feels like it takes too much gas to get it going.

My plan is to do the job one last time tomorrow and put the original solenoid black back in. If this clears the code (which was never present in the first place) I will be returning the refurb unit and seeing what a mechanic thinks about the harsh reverse and shift flares. If nothing else, I learned a lot and changed the fluid and filter...
 






Did you replace the separator plate along with the solenoid block?
 






No, does this piece sit above the valve body? If so, I didn't mess with the valve body at all, other than removing the solenoid block from it.
 






Just wanted to post an update. After scanning my codes it showed that I had a loose connection somewhere, which turned out to be the solenoid wiring harness (the only one I messed with). Turns out I just didn't tighten the bolt enough when I put it back on. Unfortunately, I put the old solenoid block back on before figuring this out, although it does seem to be shifting a little better with new fluid and a new filter.
 






Hello. I s the OD solenoid and over the counter item? I think I need the same fix.
 






71 ft lbs is way to much torque, you should use an inch lb torque wrench. The torque is 71 INCH LBS.
 






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