Help.....truck just died on the way to work.

[toughguy]

2000 EB 5.0. Driving to work this morning I noticed the radio start to fade out once I noticed the radio was fading out I noticed my gauges are all dropping down to zero and not working. Then I noticed my trucks lights didn't work horns didn't work windows don't work, but the truck was still on and slightly chugging. I experienced something like this before with my Windstar and it was the alternator, can anybody confirm this issue, and I'm still at work !!!!

 

[XLTrunner]

Bad alternator would certainly be at the top of my list to check under these circumstances. Only way to know for sure is to test it. I doubt the truck will restart as I'm sure the battery is dead by now, so you'll have to either try jump starting it or borrow a battery to get it running...and, then use a multi-meter to check it's output (should be around 14 volts). Or, remove it and take it to an auto parts store for testing. How old is the battery? If it's at least 5 yrs old, it's on borrowed time. While you're under the hood, make sure the battery cables/connections at the battery are clean and not corroded.

 

[toughguy]

Thank you, that what I figured. I will try to drive it home if I can get it started and replace the alternator.

Can you recommend a really good alternator .

 

[koda2000]

Lose/dirty battery terminals? Bad battery? Bad alternator?

Was the BATT/CHARGE light on? Does it work during bulb check? If that bulb is burnt out the alternator will not get turned on.

I'd start with the battery terminals. Take them off clean them and the lugs on the battery. If you have one of those repair terminals check to make sure the 2 bolts that clamp it to the cable are still tight. I've had instances where the terminals looked clean, but didn't make a good enough connection. I'd step on the brake pedal and loose all electrical power.

 

[4tified]

If that is indeed the original factory alternator, I would bet brushes are worn down and it's reached EOL. Given that the alternator sits towards the top of the engine and is fairly easy to get to, I would go with a cheap remanufactured one from Oreilly's or Autozone. To get you home (or at least to an auto shop/store), I would jump off someone for about 5-10 minutes (with your engine already running) and make sure all lights and extra peripherals are turned off to save power for MAF/PCM components as those are critical since you're not getting any power back from the alternator.

 

[XLTrunner]

As both Koda and I have suggested, don't assume it's the alternator without first checking battery and cable connections. As for a recommended alternator, I NEVER go with cheap anything when it comes to my vehicles...especially, if I plan to keep it for any length of time. I've always had good luck with Autozone's Duralast brand with Limited Lifetime warranty.

 

[toughguy]

Thanks everybody, I will try to jump her when j get off work, I am going to try and get her home to take care of her. I am looking up alternators Now......

 

[koda2000]

As both Koda and I have suggested, don't assume it's the alternator without first checking battery and cable connections. As for a recommended alternator, I NEVER go with cheap anything when it comes to my vehicles...especially, if I plan to keep it for any length of time. I've always had good luck with Autozone's Duralast brand with Limited Lifetime warranty.

Ditto. BTW, if you don't own a volt-ohm meter (VOM) now would be great time to buy one. Even an inexpensive one takes the guess work out of diagnosing electrical problems and makes more sense than throwing money at a problem hoping it fixes it.

 

[Robman]

If that bulb is burnt out the alternator will not get turned on.

Man, really?? That's terrible if true.

 

[toughguy]

I have never seen a battery/charge light come on in the truck nor do I see one come and on in my wife's 99 Eddie Bauer 5.0 found it.

 

[4tified]

As both Koda and I have suggested, don't assume it's the alternator without first checking battery and cable connections. As for a recommended alternator, I NEVER go with cheap anything when it comes to my vehicles...especially, if I plan to keep it for any length of time. I've always had good luck with Autozone's Duralast brand with Limited Lifetime warranty.

That's basically what I mean by cheap alternator. Duralast is one of the cheapest you can get from Autozone. For sure, check all the basic things first though, I've overlooked tons of things like this by assuming the worst right off hand.

 

[koda2000]

That's basically what I mean by cheap alternator. Duralast is one of the cheapest you can get from Autozone. For sure, check all the basic things first though, I've overlooked tons of things like this by assuming the worst right off hand.

FYI, AutoZone's Duralast line is not their cheapest line. Valuecraft (AKA Valucrap) is their cheap line and only comes with a 1 year warranty. The Duralast line are remans but have a lifetime warrant. As easy as the Explorer alternator is to change, if the Duralast alternator dies before the rest of the truck does. AutoZone will just give me another one. I see nothing wrong with remans, I'm not about to spend double for a brand new alternator (or triple that for a new Motorcraft alternator) on a 20 year old vehicle. That just seems nuts to me. As far as having the Ford stealership install a brand new alternator for $720... that's 1/2 to 1/3 the value of the damn truck. I installed a Duralast alternator on my daughter's 2000 Mountaineer 4 years ago. IIRC it cost me around $120-$130 and took me about 10 mins to put it on. It's never given me any problem.

 

[toughguy]

ok, update: after work I go to my truck and it opens with the key fob. I try to start the truck and it whines and clicks, I get a jump and she starts right up.....I then proceed to drive it home waiting for the same scenario like this morning, nothing. radios working cd playing. its about 15 miles till home and all is ok. then I turn onto my street and I notice the red battery light come on and slowed fade out. I pull into my drive way and get my ohm meter and test the alt at the battery and I get a constant reading of 13.7 I then shut the truck off and take a reading off the battery and get a reading of 12.7. I wait 20 min to take another reading off the battery and the readings go CRAZY up and down, I get all zeros then it jumps around. I start the truck and get a reading of 13.7 shut off the truck and get a reading of 12.7. is it the battery? battery is only 3 years. thanks all.

 

[koda2000]

When you take your readings at the battery are you touching your test leads to the lead lugs of the battery or to the cable ends/terminals? There's no way you can get 13.7 volts one minute and basically zero/ranging the next unless your terminals are not making good contact and that's where you're placing your test leads. Did you remove, clean and make sure the terminals are tight?

 

[toughguy]

at the battery I placed the leads on the led lugs(terminals), terminals are clean and tight. The battery reading was 12.7 when the truck was running I connected to the terminals and got a reading of 13.7 when the battery light comes on does that mean the alt is not charging?

 

[koda2000]

at the battery I placed the leads on the led lugs(terminals), terminals are clean and tight. The battery reading was 12.7 when the truck was running I connected to the terminals and got a reading of 13.7 when the battery light comes on does that mean the alt is not charging?

When the light comes on it means the vehicle is running off the battery and not receiving any charge from the alternator. That could mean the alternator is bad or it could mean there's a bad electrical connection in the charging system/wiring.

A fully charged battery should measure 12.6 volts (or better) with the engine off. With the engine running and accessories OFF the alternator should be putting out 14+ volts as measured at the "B" terminal (the big wire) at the alternator. As measured at the battery, the voltage might be slightly less than at the "B" terminal.

To be clear the terminal and lug are two different things. The lug is part of the battery. The terminal is part of the battery cable. Do you have the OE terminals or bolt-on repair terminals?

 

[toughguy]

OE terminals. I measured 12.6 at the lug, and 13.7 at the terminal.

 

[toughguy]

update: just measured from the alternator and she is putting out 12.6 battery is holding at 12.7. checked wife's 99 EB 5.0 and alternator is putting out 14. looking for a new alternator, this one looks good....https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL7543...&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+AL7543N+New+Alternator

 

[SupaSwope]

So today I went outside and started my truck and noticed the battery light on and battery gauge was almost on L but truck started fine. After reading this thread I went outside with my multi-meter and was getting 12.5 while the truck was off.

So I started it and it was 12.5 still. I went to the alternator and it said 12.5 or something like that. I went and my truck and revved the engine and the battery light went off, gauge shot back up to the middle and when I went to test the battery and alternator they were both reading 14.6. I thought this was weird. So I thought I would share. I just replaced the alternator and battery within the year? Decent stuff too. Wierd. Never seen that before.

 

[koda2000]

Sounds like your alternator did not switch itself on when the engine was started. That's the job of the voltage regulator. If it does it again I'd check the connections at the alternator and if they're tight and there's no sign of burnt connections you might want to replace that alternator. As it's quite new it should be under warranty. Where did you buy it?