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Help! What are all these Codes!

Explorer94GV

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 15, 2002
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City, State
Springdale, Arkansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
94' XLT 97' XLT AWD V8
ok these are the codes this thing keeps spitting out.

565-canister purge circut failure
181-adapter fuel rich limit reached at idle right side
189- " " left side
186-injector pluse width higher than excepted
332-Egr valve opening not detected

the guy at autozone said it was egr valve. so i came home took it off cleaned it with carb cleaner and cleaned the IAC. still check engine comes on with the same codes. Could it be this thing is just shot? Than i take it back to double check it being the same code after i cleaned both. the guy went out there and the computer wouldnt reset. he try resetting with code scanner, pulled the fuses for the comp., and disconnected the battery. the codes wouldnt clear. so we called FORD and they said to do the same things we did. than he says its either 2 problems there is a short in one of the computers hardwire or the computer module itself is shot. as you can see it could be a number of things and i dont want to go buy a new egr valve if it isnt the problem. please help me.
 



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Ford had a poor design on their DPFE sensor, which have now have been updated. The sensor opens and closes the EGR.
 






I was getting the equivalent of 181/189 on an '88 GM car once that I couldn't get to go away, even after replacing the O2 sensor. I took it into a shop and he tested it and determined that the computer had gone bad. The test involved putting a known good O2 sensor in (He didn't trust the one that I put in) and forcing a vacuum leak while monitoring the output of the O2 sensor. The vacuum leak forces the engine lean. In my case, the computer insisted the engine was still running rich, even though we knew the engine was running lean because of the vacuum leak, and that the O2 sensor was good. It may not answer all of your questions, but if you can gain access to a scanner that will monitor sensor output (I've wondered for a while if the OBD-1 scanner from autoxray would do this adequately), you can try this and perhaps get a better feel for whether it is a problem with the computer or something else.
 






ok this is really pissing me off i replace the egr valve and the temp. sensor that is right next to the egr valve and that damn check engine light still comes on. ive cleaned the tb,maf, and IAC. i have new plug wires and spark plugs. i still have really rough sounding idle and when i step on the gas there is a lot of hestation before it begins to accelerate. so far i have spent $70 and that damn check engine light still is coming on. help me out with any other troubleshooting tips i havent tried yet. the search button helps a lot but all the stuff i have found and tried related to the codes im getting is not working.
 






Usually it's the DPFE that goes bad. It's attached to the EGR via 2 tubes. Also, those tubes get clogged with gunk as well. Make sure they are clear. Also, check your Fuel Pressure. Your Fuel Pressure Regulator may be shot.
 






checked the dpfe the hoses were fine the sensor was gunked some but it still is screwed i may have to replace it but $70 is crazy for something that has nothing to do with performance wise. where is the fuel regulator located. thxs in advance.
 






I went throught the same thing with the code 332. :confused: Finally extinquished it with a new PFE. You may want to reconsider that first, it's a common problem with the earlier models.The computer really doesn't like all that gunk in there. As far as the rest of your codes.......?
 






A few thingsabout EEC codes

Always get rid of the first code first.
Meaning your 565 canister purge (they go bad often) could be the cause of your other codes.
If the canister purge vavle goes bad ($20 at NAPA) it locks in the open position, meaning the valve is always purging the charcoal canister to the tank, can buid up too much pressure in the tank and cause other fuel elated problems, like running rich/lean.

The number one cause of bad idle or rough running/hesitation on the 4.0L is a dirty MAS. In your post I didnt see anything about you cleaning the MAS sensor.

An injector pulse code points me towards the fuel system, which again the canister purge could have something to do with.

Now in my past experience I have spent hours troubleshooting codes and sensors only to find that indeed the EEC (computer) was at fault, if you are lucky enough to have a friend with the EXACT same truck you have (4.0L OHV w/EGR, auto or stick, whatever) you can swap out computers and then you will know for sure.

I say replace that canister purge, it'ssimple and it can cause problems. Then test your 02 sensors if the codes remain. Cleaning the entireupper intake is not a bad idea either, it does no good to replace or clean the IAC or EGR if the carbon thats clogging them is actually in the intake.


The other option (unfortunatley) is to take it to Ford for computer diagnosis.

Basically there is a very specific proceedure to follow to determine and eliminate each code, in order, If you have the ability to do this testing (Volt/OHM meter, patience, and books) then you can save a ton of $$$$$ but it can be very frusrating, especially when you think you found a problem, buy new parts, replace, and it persists. Believe me I spent 6 hours this weekend troubleshooting codes yet again, replaced the 02 sensors after one of them checked out a little off, only to find that the computer is indeed bad. How do I know? I swapped computers with a friedns and BAM! alll problems, codes went away. Of course my computer (if you follow the posts on this board) was fried by an exhaust shop (left key on when mig welding) and replaced with a reman unit from Ford a month ago, so the Reman's EEC Ford got me simply went bad (may have been my fault, not sure yet)..... So instead of spending $500 on a new IAC, new 02's new coil pack, new MAF, etc...sometimes its worth the $2-300 it takes to have Ford do the actual tests just like it says to do in the shop manuals and find the real problem.
 






nah ive already cleaned maf so i can check that off. the purge cylinder though where is this located? As far as computers go i have no one around here that i can do that with. ok as far as cleaning the ENTIRE upperintake is that the silver thing that everything plugs into ie. IAC, EGR, TB? As far as taking that off how hard is it? And if i did take it off what whould i clean it with? thxs for your help man i will get that purge cylinder.
 






the canister purge vavle is located inside the upper intake, well not inside but under it. Basically Ford just found a place to fit it out of sight and theat where it sits. It is a gold cylinder a little larger then a film canister. If you follow the vacuum line from your charcoal canister (not the one that goes to the tank, the other one) you will find this sucker. It is tucked under the upper intake, just behind the throttle body, from the drivers side. If you pull on it will come out so you can work on it. You may have to cut some clips holding wires in place. BE very careful replacing it, the high pressure nylon fuel line is a hard plastic and if ou are not careful it can break. Also the plastic T fitting ont he new valve breaks reall easy so dont force it (it is a press on type fit) If you break it you have to buy another. If you cant get the lines on try heating them up, I actually ended up taking both hases and the valve inside, then boiling the lines in water to heat them up, then they slide right over the T fitting no worries...

Dont expect all your codes to disappear withthe canister purge, if they are bad they will usually not cause anythiing more then a gas odor, unless your gas cap is busted and no longer vents. However if you get a canister purge code during the KOER test, it needs to be replaced. UNless again of course the EEC computer is bad, and setting a code not because the vavle wasnt working but because the EEC is diagnosing itself. Like I said however the canister purge valve goes bad often, they are cheap, and I know of 4 other 4.0L engines other then mine that needed new ones after 100K + miles.....

Its a good place to start anywho.
If you replace it, reset the comp (disc - batt cable) and you still get a canister purge code it may be time to have the Ford guys test your Computer since you cant swap one out with a friend....

good luck!!!!!!
 






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