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Help with 4406 swap

Fusion213

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 16, 2001
Messages
774
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City, State
Jacksonville, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 XLT 5.0L
So, i finally got the 4406 in yesterday. Problem is, the driveshaft that I got from an expedition has a 1410 series front u-joint... this makes it so that I have to either dent a GIGANTIC dent in the front of the gas tank or not run it.
I wanted to know what series front joints everyone else is running on their 4406 swapped trucks.
Also if you could snap some pictures of your d/s front yoke to gas tank clearance.
 



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You mean the yoke is hitting the gas tank?

I think you have to dent the tank either way because the radius difference between the 1410 and the 1310 is only about half an inch (or about 1 inch diameter difference overall). And because the engine and transmission sits on rubber bushings, you need about an inch of clearance or so when the whole thing torques over, or when the vehicle is off camber and the leaf springs lean towards the gas tank .. so I'd say even if you have the 1310, you'd still need to dent the tank if the 1410 is presenting a problem.

Or you could build your own driveshaft with a smaller diameter (but go with thicker wall, close to 0.1875" would be good for off-road use)

Dont worry about taking a hammer to the gas tank, most are required to do it at one point or another. Just use a dead-blow or a rubber-mallet and go slow .
 






I did have to "adjust" my gas tank a bit-and trim some of the protective plastic along the inboard side of the tank.
can you get a picture?
 






I just went out and shot this picture-it's a bit blurry but you can see, it is tight.
 

Attachments

  • tank to yoke.jpg
    tank to yoke.jpg
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I see your 1/4" clearance and raise you ... a deadblow hammer :D

TL061.jpg


Nevermind.. I'm all in!

poker3.jpg
 






I see your 1/4" clearance and raise you ... a deadblow hammer :D

TL061.jpg


Nevermind.. I'm all in!

poker3.jpg

I have a HUGE muffler hanging about 1/2" away on the other side--lol
 






I attempted beating the crap out of the tank, then while I was beating it, I realized that I need to start the dent nearly a foot back to even get that slip yoke started on the end of the t-case... so I decided against making such a gigantic dent, there's already a huge dent in the bottom of the tank from scraping the skid plate against roots.
So... i've been trying to get myself another rear shaft out of an expedition. I took a two hour trip and found out that yet ANOTHER 99 expy shaft out of a 5.4 had the same exact 1410 series joint in the front and 1350 in the rear. Tomorrow i'm going to attempt to get another shaft but from a 98 or 97 expedition.
 






Strange- mine fit right in- is your gas tank bracket tweaked, motor mounts broken, trans mount broken???? :scratch:


Here is what I had to cut:

transfercase_004_Medium_.jpg


The yoke barely, I mean barely rubbed the plastic, but it made noise so I cut it out.
 






Strange- mine fit right in- is your gas tank bracket tweaked, motor mounts broken, trans mount broken???? :scratch:


Here is what I had to cut:

transfercase_004_Medium_.jpg


The yoke barely, I mean barely rubbed the plastic, but it made noise so I cut it out.

That area that you cut out, I would have to dent a large portion in just to get that yoke to slide in and give just enough room for the yoke to rotate. I'll try to take a picture tomorrow.

What series front u-joint was on your shaft and what year?
 






Yeah I'm kind of surprised this thing is using 1410's... even 1-ton full-floaters often come with only 1350s.
 






My joint looks like Jon's- I don't know what series because I didn't replace it. I don't know what year the Expo was either- sorry.

I really don't think the joint or year is your issue unless its significantly larger than the picture above. I think either your gas tank is wrong, or your trans crossmember is given out, pulling the tailshaft to one side.
 






I am curious also, I'm hoping to find a rear shaft today for my 98.
 






I removed my plastic protector thingy from my gas tank completely, with a hole cut in it for clearance it serves no purpose anyways.

I used a rubber mallet along with a dead blow sledge and made a nice round softball shaped dent in the side of my tank right at the t case flange, it took minimal effort and I now have at least 1" clearance around the driveshaft flange

If your transmission mount is worn (like mine) then you will want to do something about this, I am skipping a stock replacement and plan to build a custom urethane type mount this will really help support the massive 4406 back there. The factory mount will flatten out in nothing flat with the weight of the 4406, this will also cause wear on the factory motor mounts.

My expedition rear d shaft and f-150 front d shaft both bolted in with no hassle, I just had to use a conversion U joint on the front shaft at the differential......
 






Along with the help of a sledge hammer, I finally have 3/4" clearance around that 1410 u-joint.
The other shaft I had purchased ended up being a CV shaft out of a 98 Expedition. It was just as wide but twice as long so i'd have to dent a LONG dent rather than a short one.
I still have to take pictures to show the two expedition shafts I have.
 






So I am the only one who turned up a rear shaft with a double cardon joint? Parts stores say the u-joints are the same, except that this one takes three instead of two. I won't be able to do anything until I get back after Monday from Sioux Falls. Ford charges $25 for the BW 4406 rear seal, the $12 front seal they didn't have on hand.

If this big rear driveshaft will go in I'll use it, the joints are tight, it came from a 98 Expedition with standard suspension, they said. The use of a Sport tank may get it back far enough to not matter. Night,
 






That other shaft I purchased is a CV shaft(double cardan joint), it was out of a 98 with standard suspension. It'll fit if you beat the crap out of your gas tank. I got the 1410 front u-joint shaft to fit when I beat a big dent in the tank. Just remember that the CV shaft is nearly as wide as the shaft with the 1410 on it but it stays that wide further back meaning you'll have to beat out a portion to clear that whole CV.
If you use a sport tank, i'd imagine it'd work.
 






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