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Help with 5R55E

gatzdon

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 17, 2007
Messages
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City, State
IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Exp XLS 4WD V6 OHV
Background (You can either read this, or skip to the real question below):
2000 Explorer 4WD V6 4.0L OHV

Check Engine Light has been on for awhile (wife never tells me these things until it won't start). OD Off light flashes occasionally. I pulled the DTF codes and got.

P0735 "Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio"
P1405 "Differential Pressure Feedback Sensor"
P1717 "Shift Solenoid D Inductive Signature"

Other visible symptom is there is a audible rumbling sound from the transmission during heavy acceleration.

==========
P1405 was easy to deal with. One of the tubes to the DPFE sensor had split and melted part of the DPFE sensor and started melting a wiring bundle next to it. Replaced the DPFE sensor and thankfully there didn't appear to be any shorts in the wiring bundle.

===========
P0735 and P1717

From what I've been reading, I got the impression that P1717 will cause P0735. This gives me a glimmer of hope that it's a simple problem relating to one of the solenoids. I started reading yesterday as many threads here that I can find pertaining to the 5R55E. It seems that for most people, a valve body rebuild magically solves all their problems.

Before I do this, I just wanted to get a feel for how likely a problem related to solenoid D (the one for overdrive??) is to cause an actual audible rumbling sound from the transmission during heavy acceleration?

I'm concerned that my wife drove it so long with the Solenoid D problem that it caused damage to physical parts.

If anyone helps, I promise to post followups so others can learn from my experience.

================

Summary of work done and links to pictures is on page 2 of this thread. Thanks to everyone for the help and vote of confidence that I could do it myself.
 



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Replace solenoid D. I am about 90% sure that will solve your problem.... all you have to is drop the pan to accomplish this.

Rumble on acceleration? I cannot tell you this is related. Fix the solenoid and find out. If not, we can address that.

THANK YOU for an intelligent description and the actual codes!!!!!

ps.. you are right P1717 WILL throw a ratio code most of the time.

pps. Welcome to the forum, if you could do a photo post of the solenoid replacement it would be invaluable for others. I try and do everything with photo posts, but they are time consuming..... I'll assist in the photo posts if you are game for that.
 






I'm going to order the solonoid today at Ford.

I'll take at least three pictures, before, during, and almost complete. I won't promise more up front as the wife would be upset if I got the camera dirty and this isn't exactly the cleanest job.

Here's hoping the sound is just from the trans attempting to engage overdrive and nothing damaged yet (I mentally try to equate it to grinding gears on a standard transmission)
 






Quick Question:

With all the threads I read here, people are actually removing the valve body.

Replacing this solenoid, is it as simple as removing the retaining clip across the solenoids and it comes right out?
I was just wanted to double check in case I need to order anything besides the solenoid (aside from the filter).
 






You only have to replace the solenoid, and not drop the valve body. On the older A4LD, you would have to drop the valve body to remove the solenoid. I would also suggest that you adjust the bands.
 






You only have to replace the solenoid, and not drop the valve body. On the older A4LD, you would have to drop the valve body to remove the solenoid. I would also suggest that you adjust the bands.


For that, I'm going to need to buy a better torque wrench and do alot more reading on these forums. I have seen the thread with the band specifications and maybe it's just a confidence thing, but it seems to really oversimplify the process. I'm still coming to grips with the engineering inside an automatic transmission.

It was only this past year that I took on the manual transmission in my F-150. Once I had it open, it seemed so simple and I couldn't understand what I was worried about..
 






Nothing is complicated once you get familiar with it. I wrote that band adjustment thread with Glacier991's help. It's funny how the idea came about for that thread. Glacier had the specs for a band adjustment in one thread, and I looked up the specs in my book on something else, then found that there was a discrepancy on a few different specs. My book said one thing, and his book said something else for different models. Both of us did the research until we found all of the correct specs. I compiled them together to make that thread. It first started in the Technician Forum section of this website, then got copied to this section to become a sticky. Glacier then added the step by step photos from his A4LD rebuild diary to further enhance the quality of the whole thing.
 






As described in that thread, adjusting the bands is an extremely simple process. With the proper torque wrench, it probably ranks as one of the easiest adjustment items on the vehicle.

I'm just always hesitant to do anything until I understand what it is that I'm effecting (or in some cases affecting).

So let me see if I get this.

The band is used in order to stop a drum from turning to help the planetary gears and sun gear match RPM's while a clutch pack is engaged??? (edit: incorrectly stated ring gear instead of sun gear)

Is it possible that a loose band could explain noise that I hear under heavy accelaration. that there is not enough force to hold the drum in place under high torque, causing the drum to slip along the band?, but under low torque, there is enough force to hold the drum in place when needed?

Just thinking out loud here.
 






A leaking servo piston could cause the band to appy, then slowly drop out. It's a good idea to try a band adjustment first since changing those pistons while the transmission is still inside of the vehicle is a difficult job, but is possible.
 






Be carefull adjusting those bands they can and do break. speaking from a personal experiance it can happen
 






Interesting observation 4LO. Was the band being adjusted to the recommended 10 ft lbs torque with a torque wrench when this happened ? I've never heard of one being broken using this method, but there is always a first.
 






I once broke a band with a torque wrench, but it was because I didn't stop right away when I hit the amount of torque it clicked at. Old bands are a little more fragile than fresh ones, so don't over torque an old band!
 






Dealer has the solenoid in stock. I will be picking it up and replacing it on Saturday.

Anything else I should check while I have the pan/filter off?
 












I once broke a band with a torque wrench, but it was because I didn't stop right away when I hit the amount of torque it clicked at. Old bands are a little more fragile than fresh ones, so don't over torque an old band!

That`s how it went down for me also. I am not trying to scare you guys, just want ya`ll to know the cons also. Done correctly this is an easy fix, but it can get costly.
 






Solenoid, filter, wiring harness, gaskets, loose bolts, and for any chunks in the pan. How much does the dealer want for the solenoid? Did you check WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com? Put a drain plug in the pan.

Wow, dealer wants $100 (that's after discount), while TransmissionPartsUSA only wants $20 + Shipping. They have the OEM solenoid for $45 + Shipping.

This is a tough call as I was planning on doing it this weekend. I think I'll order the part and wait to do the replacement.
 






I'm going with the dealer part so I can change the solenoid tomorrow morning. I've read enough (via here and google) that I'm pretty confident that the solenoid replacement will be uneventful. I'll still take pictures nonetheless.

I've been reading up on the torque convertors and the more I read, the more I believe that the sound I'm hearing is coming from the torque convertor. I can only hear it under heavy acceleration. Is it possible for the one-way clutch on the stator to be shot and with enough force, for the stator to rotate backwards during heavy acceleration?? So far, I think the noise I hear would only match up with conditions where the stator is working hardest to redirect the fluid path.

I'm also hoping for a simpler explanation. The trans fluid was brown and had not been changed in a long while. Is it possible that this poor quality trans fluid (if I can still call it that) is cavitating or something in the torque convertor due to it's deterioration?

After reading about the myths and hypothesis of doing a complete flush of burnt out trans fluid, I'm opting for the frequent changes by dropping the pan.
 






This tranny NEEDS GOOD FLUID. I am thinking that with your solenoid fix and renewed fluid (which I repeat is CRITICAL to proper operation of this tranny) your may just discover your rumble is gone. It could be related to the TC clutch frictions not locking up adequately due to old fluid.
 






I plan on changing a few quarts of the fluid once per week until it looks, smells, and feels brand new.

Here's hoping nothing is permanently damaged.
 



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OK, quick status update.

I dropped the pan and filter, removed the old solenoid, went to put in the new solenoid, and behold, the Ford Dealer gave me the wrong one. They gave me the ECP which explains why they were so expensive.

Of course the dealer doesn't have the correct one in stock. After calling around, found a dealer with one and got there just as they were closing. They wouldn't give me a discount so I had to pay list, $68.17, whereas the other dealer was giving me 20-50% off.

Got the new solenoid in and inspected for anything unusual. I did find a piece of what looks like paper gasket. I'll upload a picture of where I believe it came from.

I'm just taking a lunch break before I go back out to test drive it and take care of a few other things like Oil/Filter change, replace hood latch/cable, air filter change, fuel filter change, inspect fluid levels/quality, etc...
 






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